s._c.

Has anyone accidentally pulled the dark slide after cranking the

last exposure through?. I was wondering if I lost the last frame or

last few frames. Thankfully it was some still life I can reshoot.

I appreciate your responses.

I decided to bring it back to lens&repro since it was still under warrantee. It took six weeks & I don't know who they sent it to. It got a focus check, shutter and winder overhaul. Works fine even in cold weather now, but they had it so long I don't remember if it was as quiet as before. I used Camera Leather to replace the covering and it looks great.

If there is a purple C surrounding a W on the rim, then it should be coated.

I have a CF. I don't have the manual in front of me, but I remember reading that it will accept 75mm lenses with the bed dropped and in horizontal format. Vertical will result in some vignetting. Sorry I don't know about the 65mm.

Looks nice. I can't say for sure, but looking at the side view picture, the front standard looks like it will roll back to the rear standard collapsing the bellows all the way in. The knob in the middle bottom may be the locking mechanism for the bed which may allow for it to fold upward into a compact package easy to carry by the handle on top. Oh, does anyone know where one can get replacement short cable releases like that? I damaged my original kodak on my Pocket 1A. Thanks.

I believe he is in Boston, MA. Does anyone know if he has a website?

I use a 500CM with the w/l and crank and an ELM. When I have the time, I can handhold the cameras. When I photograph models and need to ensure sharpness while working quickly, I use either a flash grip, tripod, or usually a monopod.

You may be better off with a stroboframe 120 quickflip. I have this and I shot a wedding with my 3.5E3 using a rolleifix. This bracket allows the flash to stay over the lens and far enough forward to clear the w/l if that's what you are using. The lower frame next to the plate also has a hole for tripod mounting or quick release plate. I think I paid ~$50 for it at B&H.

I have a mint 35SE. It is easily carried in a Tamarac 5208 pouch on my belt, I don't really like the original leather pouch. The scale focusing takes a little getting used to, otherwise I love it. Small, solid feel and looks like a tiny work of art. The HFT Sonnar lens is very sharp and contrasty...great with color and pretty flare resistant in my results. I carry this camera around when I don't feel like carrying anything larger. As others have said, some of the german tessar ones are collectible and will cost more. I chose the SE because of the HFT Sonnar and the fact that the meter LEDs are in the viewfinder and easier to use for that reason, whereas some other models have the metering on the top plate and you have to remove the camera from your face to see it which may possibly cause you to aim the camera up and misread the sky instead.

The last time I looked at an expensive lens in Adorama, I asked the salesman for the E+ one. It was unfounded as several times when I called ahead and was not in the store when I arrived later in the day. He then showed me two V lenses and insisted they were beautifully clean. The haze was so bad, I could not see through it! This was after he cleaned it. I stopped shopping there. Keh usually gets good recommendations.

The cameras I have are all for using (though I worry using my LN cond. Rollei 35SE). It's my first Leica. I am leaning toward the seal grain leatherette, but I couldn't help looking at alternatives like the real leather (thanks Henry). The black lizard looks great on the website.

Actually that bag looks small. My pouch is about 7"long, 3"wide, and 2"deep. Padding is okay. Similar to the one below is more like it. I have a Tamarac 5208 pouch for my Rollei 35SE.

The Lowepro pouch I have is probably discontinued, I picked it up in B&H's used department for $5 new. It is close to the SlipLock Pouch 10 I think (about the same dimensions). It has a quick buckle in the front, 2 roll holders inside that I don't use. It came with a strap, but there is a belt loop in the back. The pouch is enough to carry the camera with my 50 3.5 uncoated scratched elmar collapsed (can you believe $40 for the lens from B&H?). The pouch is convienent to keep under the coat and I keep a meter in the pocket. When I get rigid lenses, this solution probably won't work.

Thanks Charles. I got an original case for the camera and haven't used it yet. I primarily keep it in a LowePro belt case. I have to let my Zeiss Icarex 35CS breathe.

My IIIC is void of its original covering and I am about to order a

replacement covering for it from cameraleather.com. I am looking at

the black seal grain replacement. Is there another covering I may

consider? Kid grain leather, vulcanite c leatherette, black lizard

or others? Thanks for your experiences.

Thank you all for your help! I realized that the camera #413XXX should be wound prior to set the proper speed accurately. All the other speeds do seem accurate on inspection. I unscrewed the shutter release button's other collar and carefully wiped the neck of the button with a q-tip soaked with ronsonol. This seemed to lessen the amount of sticking significantly. Maybe I need to do a little more. I can't wait to get a lens for this camera to start finding out what leica feel is about. It has a nice feel similar to my rollei 35se and ikonta. Thanks again.

This is my first Leica. I got a good price on it and went for it.

The only thing wrong with it is the 1000 speed sticks occasionally.

I noticed the shutter release stays a little below the resting point

when this happens. Could it be remedied myself? All the other

speeds seem to work fine. Also, I could use recommendations for 50

and 35 lenses.

My friend owned one of those seagulls as an intro to medium format and he liked it until it broke and moved onto a yashica 124g and eventually bronica etrsi slr system. For around the price of the 105, I have been hearing that you could probably wait for a used Rolleicord with a tessar or xenar lens that should be very good. These cameras are made pretty well and should outlast the seagull. As far as large prints, I have made 20x24s from hasselblad. TLRs have the advantage of less vibration since the mirror doesn't move making your handheld shots better, remedied with a tripod or monopod and care. TLRs are great being on a budget. For about the same money, I first bought a Yashica LM years ago and it still takes really nice portraits. I also have a Rolleiflex 3.5e3 planar that I really like (albeit more expensive). Check out the Medium format Library http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/index.html There are lots of great articles here that I wish I had read before starting medium format. Another suggestion is to get Medium Format Photography by Leif Ericksenn or Wildi's Medium Format Advantage. The first book is what I got started with and remains a reference and source of inspiration today.

Thanks for your responses. Have any of you started with a screw mount copy before getting the real deal? I saw some cheap copies at "russian souveniers" and I thought that if the action is similar and I don't mind using it, then I may look into "real ones." I already own a yashica gsn, canonet gIII 17, himatic f, rollei 35 se and other heavier slrs and 4x5. Sorry if I offend anyone by mentioning leica copies. I just don't have the opportunity to try one out and didn't want to put considerable money into it yet (27 cameras now). Thanks again.

I recently have become interested in older leicas, however I don't

know too much about them other than what I've been seeing on the

internet. My question: when turning the lens focus by the tab, are

you supposed to be able to see the large threads behind the first

beveled disc (and see some brassing)?

"Doctor's Work" by Ted Grant using Leica slrs and M6. It showcases the teachings of Sir William Osler.

I am at 26 (one recently acquired yashica electro gsn and canonet qIII included). I am really considering a leica IIIc now. Where will I get the time to learn how to use my 4x5?

Hasselblad USA is greatly recommended. There is a Hasselblad authorized repair shop in Manhattan: Nippon Photo Clinic, Inc. located at 920 Broadway Suite #705 New York, NY 10010 (212) 982-3177. I took some work there in which they estimated approximately a week's time, but were finished in exactly two days. I have since inquired about other equipment repairs and if they don't service it, they have been happy to provide information or suggestions.

Enjoy the camera. Since the lens is uncoated, watch for light flare. I wanted one for my collection, it has a real retro look to it considering when it was made.

Looks like an Original Standard Rolleiflex model 620/621.