s._c.

Another word of caution. When you ask of a used piece of equipment, they may ask what the price is. Last time I looked for an E+ cond lens, they showed me one of lesser rating (fungus spots on lens) then later took out a better condition lens (still had black flecks inside, but no fungus) when I asked for another. I found out later on their website that there were two listed: an E+ one at a price I expected, and a VG one at significantly less cost.

A while ago, a salesman there showed me a lens with a significant scratch across the front element complete with dust and other haze on the inside at regular market price. When I said I didn't want it, he tried for another few minutes to sell it to me before dismissing me and saying you want to buy new only. Later that day, I bought the lens (9 cond) from B&H for a hundred less.

At last year's PhotoEast, the Op/Tech representative showed me a loop strap that may be able to attach onto the sides by a lark's head. I think it is called the Pro Loop 1/4 Connector. I haven't seen a modern supply yet.

It has probably been about three weeks. Irwin is the owner and he wanted to retire his store after about ten years. Alex is at Adorama now from what Irwin tells me. Jerry was the guy with the beard and a stout voice. I haven't seen him for some time, so I don't know if he works elsewhere. He used to shoot his Rollei alongside his Bronica system. The website is still active though.

I purchased a Bay 2 to 49 mm adapter from Camera Traders Ltd. for $20. The store is closed, but is online still. It was made in India I think (Sonja brand?) and works fine.

The 501 is a nice diversion from your automatic 35. Be prepared for culture shock. You will need a flash meter to work with the flash system to measure the output (and make adjustments)and manually adjust the settings on the lens. You will be able to sync at all speeds with the leaf shutter. Try and rent a decent flash meter. Remember to keep the camera cocked before trying to remove the lens. Look up information on loading the film magazines. You can probably gather that there is a lot involved in making this camera perform rather than just pressing the shutter release. Try and learn as much as possible between now and when you use it. Once you can work the camera properly, your creative efforts can come through. Good luck and enjoy.

I made that kind of set up with a 6V lithium battery, some solder, two copper tabs, some wire, and tape to keep the tabs in place. So far, so good. The length of the battery with the taped on tabs is enough to contact both sides properly. Have you found a battery holder that fits in that space? I'm looking for one to facilitate battery changing than the patch & tape method I did.

Oh, the X setting for flash is what you should use for modern flashes. The M settings are for flash bulbs. Enjoy.

Paramount makes some locking cables for the Rollei TLR with the spring knob. 23-6C for locking pc to pc male or 3-6C for locking pc to household. Otherwise, normal pc cords should work (just make sure it doesn't slip off when handholding). My 3.5E3 has stops at the shutter speed. The aperature dial is smooth and can be set in between stops.

Let us know who this person or store is, so we can be aware. Try Wilco Jansen Hassy Parts in Holland 035-525-7119, 035-526-2596fax. I heard they have replacement elements. Good luck.

The hole is used to view the first frame number. There is no red filter. 120 film has the paper backing throughout the whole roll so it should occlude any light that may come in throught the edges of the round cover. Once you have wound the film to one, turn back counterclockwise (it will stop at about an eight of the way back) and the counter should pop back to 1. Make sure the film is run under the tab of the insert.

Thanks for sharing the experience. I still learning my way around my 45cf. I haven't taken it down to Shore Road yet.

try: http://www.mamiya.co.uk/about/40-50.htm

The X is for x-sync used with modern flashes. The F and M settings were used in the years when flashbulbs were used. I apologize, I don't recall what the letters actually stand for. I don't think there would be any affect on the picture taking ability when you don't use flash. There are plenty of times I have accidentally knocked the shutter to the M setting on my Ikonta and no affect. I saw a used one once and it looked like a nice little folder, but the shutter was stuck so I didn't buy it. Check for pinholes in the bellows with a bright flashlight in a dark room. Enjoy.

There has been a saying that "You can't go wrong with a Hasselblad." I think that this remains largely true. I have explored some digital, 4x5, rollei 35s, etc. but, I find myself appreciating the hasselblad more and more. You probably use leica for the image quality and soundness of the equipment. These are the probably the same things you will find with hasselblads. The price does sounds good and with return privileges, you can discover if this is a camera for you.

Has anyone used a Wista Type N roll film back 6x9 in a Toyo Field

Back? It has a sliding plate on the back of the magazine...to

protect the ground glass I think, when using it attached. I want to

know if there is enough space to fit this film holder into the

camera back with the ground glass attached. Thank you for your help.

Sorry, that's foliage. Time for my second caffeine infusion of the morning!

Glad that it worked out Ken. I will give the graphmatic another try. The septums seem pretty flat, so I'll practice in the light again. I'm still learning to get decent results from 4x5 in time for fall foilage (more $ for polaroids). I still drag the hasselblad and rollei into the catskills.

I wouldn't worry too much. I bought my Hasselblad equipment with the intention of using it for life (probably my grandchildren too someday). I have used some digital, but I still prefer making images with my setup. Like Richard, I also enjoy oldies. For fun I just received a Brownie target six-16 that I'm adapting for 120.

Is there a similar tab on top? If there is, it might possibly be a holding point for a folding focusing hood. I am able to fit a graphmatic into my toyo back without removing the gg. I still use the toyo holders though. I find it difficult to set the film into the septums. Any suggestions?

There have been previous posts on this issue. My understanding is that most people's experience with mismatched backs is that it will not affect the images noticeably. I have two older 12 backs and one is mismatched. So far, I can't see any loss of sharpness between the two backs. I think there may be a problem if you match inserts of different types, such as 24 or 16 inserts in a12s or vice versa. I think most users will agree that it is best to have matched serial numbers if possible-probably precision fitting before leaving the factory from what I hear. Mismatched backs usually cost less in most stores. Has anyone tried a late A12 (new style) shell with an older 12 insert?

I agree with the past few responses. I borrowed a Kiev 88 outfit straight from Russia from a friend who was a Russian military photographer. One back was broken, the other had unpredictable frame spacing. The shutter was unreliable and didn't close at certain speeds. Whatever exposures that were successful turned out to be pretty sharp. I tried this system after I got my first tlr. Disappointed with the Kiev, I bought a Rollei tlr afterwards. When I finally decided I could afford an SLR, I decided to go for a Hasselblad after countless days of researching and debating equipment. You may consider Medium Format Photography by Lief Ericksenn. I work hard for money and would rather do things right (for me) the first time (you could wind up with 22 cameras like I did). I think in your price range, you may be better satisfied with the Mamiya (keep in mind 645). There should be less problems (greater reliability-nothing is worse than equipment failing at a critical time), rental availability, and support.

Sorry to hear about the bad experiences...and they make fun of the toyo.

If you're asking if TLRs can be tripod mounted, then yes. Most should have a mounting socket under the camera. One thing to note is that Rolleiflex backs are L-shaped and are relatively thin. They can be warped and possibly produce light leaks or other problems. If you do buy a Rollei, be sure to get a quick release called Rolleifix. It takes the pressure off the bottom screw mount and is supported at three points instead. I never mount the camera without it. My first medium format camera is a Yashica LM with a yasikor lens and it is still produces great images. Good luck.

There is a book by Lief Ericksenn titled Medium Format Photography. This is the book that helped me get started and it has been a repeated source of inspiration as well as reference. If a Mamiya 7 (6x7 rangefinder)is out of the question, then there are Fuji 67 and 69 rangefinders for about 800-1000. The lowest would probably be old Koni Omega 67 rangefinders. TLRs are plentiful on the market and could cost less than these rangefinders. Consider Yashica Mat 124G, Minolta Autocord, Mamiya C series (interchangeable lenses), and of course, Rolleiflex. I still occasionally use my Rollei 3.5e3 (75 planar) for the normal view. In the studio, I primarily use my 150 sonnar on hassy.