jeff voorhees

No, I was never dumped on by one of those guys. Like you I've been here awhile and I've learned alot too.

It does seem that you have to have the hide of an elephant to ask a question here at times. I think you should just be able to ask a question and get an answer and not be ridiculed, no matter how

"...not sugarcoated..." Indeed.

So Bob, why does anyone have to make fun of it in the first place?

Some of you here remind me of the frustrated wanna-be photographers who used to work in camera stores, lording their pre-ordained knowledge over the uninitiated with barely disguised comtempt and boredom.

What is wrong with him asking here? Perhaps we might all learn something about these nice old meters. Yes, Mr. Lewis could look on his own and then none of us would benefit.

I have a Master IV that I did the same thing to a month ago. Assuming the meters are basically the same, it was a straightforward job to remove the selector dial on the front and the name plate on the back. Underneath you will find two screws hold the case together. I cleaned the old adhesive off with goo-gone and used clear epoxy to glue the glass back in place. Reassembly is as easy as disassembly.

While there a few threads on this topic, I can tell you I had my IIIf overhauled by John Maddox in North Carolina. He recoats the existing mirror with aluminum oxide. It is quite bright and usable.

I don't have his contact info handy, but someone here has it I'm sure. Otherwise, he is listed as a source of repair on the Leica Historical Society website.

I am wondering whether a filter would interfere with the hood. I have not yet

seen one of these hoods in person and it kind of looks as though a filter

screwed onto the front of the lens might interfere with the attachment of the

hood.

Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks everyone.

Keith-

Since you are in Los Angeles, you may want to see Steven Choi at Steve Camera in Culver City. Web address: stevecamera.com

I have had him overhaul two collapsible summicrons. I have not yet had him do a body overhaul, but he'll be the one I use when the time comes. He is a nice guy, his prices are fair and he does really nice work. He specializes in Leica and Hasselblad.

He's on Sepulveda Blvd., just south of Culver and the 405 freeway intersection.

Keith-

Since you are in Los Angeles, you may want to see Steven Choi at Steve Camera in Culver City. Web address: stevecamera.com

I have had him overhaul two collapsible summicrons. I have not yet had him do a body overhaul, but he'll be the one I use when the time comes. He is a nice guy, his prices are fair and he does really nice work. He specialized in Leica and Hasselblad.

He's on Sepulveda Blvd., just south of Culver and the 405 freeway intersection.

I have just looked at your website and you have many fine images.

If you want a Leica lens, might I suggest the Summicron? You can get ones in the same vintage of your M3 for $225 to $400, or more depending on condition and model.

You might want to check <a href="http://www.ritzcam.com/" target="_new">Collectible Cameras</a> and <a href="http://www.kevincameras.com/index.html">Kevin Cameras</a> for lenses.

For some reason, I decided to try using electronic flash on my IIIf red dial.

It seemed to work great for about six shots. In other words, the flash fired

when I released the shutter. I tried both the 0 setting for the 1/25 sync and

the 20 setting for the 1/20 sync speed.

All was fine, then I noticed that the flash would fire with just minimal

pressure on the shutter button for a few shots and then the charging light

would not come back on the flash unit unless I unplugged the PC cord from

either the camera or the flash unit. When I tried to plug the cord back in,

it completely discharged the flash, then of course the charge light would not

come back on unless I unplugged the cord again.

I have not yet tested for continuity, but it seems the PC circuit on the

camera has been shorted. The flash is a Vivitar 3700. Can anyone advise?

Many thanks.

Dan-

Would you care to elaborate?

Mitchell-

Generally I'm happy with the results from the 2450. I did not want to have to buy a dedicated film scanner, especially since my wife has plenty of 6x6, 4x5 and 5x7 negs. I've read that the current Epson 4990 Pro is pretty nice. Of course by the time I'm ready for something new, even that will be obsolete.

Post some stuff, or a link. I'd love to see your work.

Mitchell-

Yes, but only digitally.

Kl IX: thank you for the compliment. East of Pomona...Claremont or Ontario perhaps? I've been wanting to shoot in Pomona around the Art Colony.

Stephen I've been rating the HP5 at 250. Although it looks just fine at 400. As I mentioned, my scanner (maybe everyone's scanner) does not like dense highlights so I am doing just a slight pull in order to flatten out the curve just a bit. It really is true, the stuff on Flickr does no justice to the quality of the negs. In the photo of the blouse, there is detail into the deepest shadow areas in the lower right corner of the frame. I just darkened them in Photoshop. I have found that the negs I get with this combo allow me wide latidude in scanning and afford me the ability to control contrast and detail in Photoshop.

I no longer have a wet darkroom so I cannot speak from <i>current</i>

experience, but I'm sure the parallels would be similar in a wet darkroom. These negs should print easily with a grade 2 or 3 filter.

Hello all. I read this forum regularly, but don't post much. It is always

informative and so in the interest of contributing to the knowledge base I

thought I'd post my experiences with Clayton F76+.

I generally use Ilford HP5+, processed it F76+, 1+14 dilution, 9 mintues, 68

degrees, with the recommended agitation. I have tried 10 minutes too and this

works well for me also. Even 11 minutes at the 1+14 dilution look real good

and would most likely print well with a diffusion enlarger. My scanner, Epson

2450, likes a bit lower contrast so 9 minutes at 1+14 gets me the negs that

work well for my equipment: remarkable shadow detail, good midtones and

controlled highlights.

The standard 1+9 dilution also works very well, the benefit being a shorter

development time. I've tried several rolls at 1+19, 11 minutes as well. The

negs are lower contrast, but that is the point. They scan very well too. It

has proved to be a versatile developer for me. F76+ also works well with

Ilford's FP4+.

If anyone is interested you can see some examples <a

href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffvoorhees/157723009/"

target="_new">here.</a>

D30 Gaijin-

Many thanks for the compliment.

Hoobbist=Hobbyist, understood.

Please explain though, "at your own pace". Do you mean LTM's and M's are a slower camera to use than an EOS?

Try this link for lens serial numbers:

<a href="http://www.forloren.dk/lbf/leica_lens_serial.htm">Lens Serial Numbers</a>

Can anyone post some detailed dimensions and photos? Length, width, and close up shots of the hardware would be good.

I've only seen photos of this strap attached to cameras on this forum. I used to do some leather working and miss the Tandy Leather retail outlets.

If this thing is a good as everyone says, then it may be worth reproducing. I'd like to check it out and see what the costs would be to buy the blanks, hardware and the relatively simple tools necessary to make these up.

Any help would be appreciated.