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A vgc Nikon FE2 just blew its shutter, no spares available....thanks Nikon


smiffy_smiffy

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Ok - maybe I should show a little more empathy. 
I love the FE/FE2 series and would be upset if one of mine broke.

I have 3 FE2s,  2 of which have seen hard use. They are robust cameras but  can’t be expected to last forever.

If Nikon had parts, the cost of replacing a shutter would likely be more than you’d pay for a functioning used replacement anyway. 

Niels
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Its been known to happen to other FE2 owners posting here and elsewhere, yes, but then almost any camera model you could name can and will experience a random failure at some point. While of course its very upsetting when it happens to our own prized camera, try not to take it personally. Even the most premium rugged pro camera models could not be expected to perform flawless beyond their 10th birthday: the FE2 was discontinued in 1987, so aging issues should not be too surprising.

You weren't specific in describing your FE2 shutter failure: there are several typical causes and solutions. If the shutter has literally physically failed (when looking at the opened camera back the shutter looks like a jammed window blind), the camera is toast: in that case you should probably sell it as a defective/parts body, and replace with another FE2 from a trusted seller. Physically jammed wrecked FE2 shutters are fairly rare nowadays, most of the FE2 bodies that were going to manifest that problem got afflicted early on. It would be unusual for an FE2 to crash like that after several decades, but a few cases have been reported.

If the shutter seems physically OK, 90% of problems trace back to battery or battery compartment issues. Batteries can seem new but not have full power: try a brand new set of batteries that have a fresh date on the package (a couple years ahead of now). Turn the shutter dial to mechanical 1/250th setting: if it fires, set to another manual speed and/or auto and see if all is back to normal. If no change, try cleaning the battery contact points in the body + cap with a cotton swab or pencil eraser moistened with vinegar. 

If still no luck, you either have a simple mechanical jam or a fussy electronic issue. If you search "Nikon FE jammed" you'll find a number of forum posts and youTube videos explaining how to take off the baseplate and reset the typical mechanical jam spots. If even that doesn't return function to normal, you most likely have an electronics issue which will probably not be cost effective to repair: with most 35mm SLRs, a replacement body is usually the most logical answer today.

Don't let a random failure ruin your enjoyment of the FE2:  if you really like the camera, just get another better example and carry on. The FE2 has held up better than many competing brands/models of the same era: it was a proven design well made, and most of them still work just fine after 30+ years. The majority of popular film cameras are at least as old as the FE2 or older: at this point, film shooters must expect sudden camera repair or replacement to bite them eventually. Put in perspective, those of us buying and shooting the "pro" Nikon F, F2, F3 and F4 bodies are far more likely to encounter a shutter issue than the average FE2 owner.  Those of us shooting Hasselblad have our wallets plucked for way more than the cost of an FE2 each time one of our lens shutters croaks (and croak they do, on the regular). Rolleiflex and Leica users could tell you a few stories about bankruptcy...

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Orsetto: Thanks for the  detailed reply and much appreciated. My FE2 shutter was physically finished to put it ploitely as they say in brum. A couple of points :  One, having used dozens of cameras and taken on them well over 100,000 wedding images, this was the only time a f/p shutter literally physically broke, and point two is that I very quickly found out from repairers that Nikon did not carry a replacement shutter for the FE2. This was when the camera was no more than 5 or 6 years old : even my hardened repairers were lost for words. Regarding Nikon F, mine is dated 1968 and the shutter is perfect, the Photomic meter appears dead but that's par for the course..                                 

As for Blads I've never met anybody who has not had problems with their "Prized Piccy Machine".. just would add that my own personal fave 35mm SLR was a Mintola Dynax 7.... outstanding was the only word for it.

Cheers and thanks again for your interest 😊

 

 

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7 hours ago, smiffy_smiffy said:

Yes thanks one & all, I know how old the camera is, or would have been, my question is simply has a shutter failed on anybody else's Fe2 ?

The shutter failed on my FE (I don't have an FE2). The shutter in any camera can fail in 5 years (let alone 30 plus years) but I wouold say the percentage isn't big. You just have to buy another FE2. Even back in the 80's I don't think replacing the shutter is economical vs buying another camera (although you could buy a brand new camera with warranty back then). In April 1984 B&H was selling the FE2 body for $219.99. 

And my Maxxum 7 is dead and so I can't call it oustanding. My F3 (1982) is still working great. 

Edited by BeBu Lamar
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Aw, thats too bad, smiffy_smiffy: sorry to hear your shutter failure was worst case scenario. 

That particular failure mode wasn't what I'd call "common" when the FE2 was sold new, but it was reported often enough that early examples of the FE2 (and FM2) with the titanium honeycomb shutter picked up a somewhat iffy reputation. Nikon (as usual) made matters worse by denying the issue and making outlandish claims about "destructive users" before finally redesigning the 1/4000 shutter altogether. IIRC, the FE2 was discontinued prior to the introduction of the revised aluminum non-honeycomb shutter module, which was fitted to the ongoing FM2 production runs.

The good news: most FE2 and FM2 bodies that were going to suffer this major shutter failure did so back in their heyday. The majority of FE2/FM2 that have survived in fully functional condition thru the decades until today are much less likely to be afflicted by this complete physical shutter breakdown. So chances are pretty good you would not experience this disappointment again with another FE2.

I've never had a shutter problem with any of the FM/FE/FM2/FE2 bodies I've owned, or Nikkormats with the earlier Copal blade shutter, but I do get hit with problems in F and F2 shutters. It is common for them to develop self-capping faults (the shutter does not open at the fastest 1/1000 or 1/2000 speeds). At least one has the option to just live with and work around that glitch if we aren't prepared to pay for repairs for awhile: the FE2 shutter crashing into itself and jamming is unfortunately an unrecoverable camera killer.

Edited by orsetto
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8 hours ago, orsetto said:

Aw, thats too bad, smiffy_smiffy: sorry to hear your shutter failure was worst case scenario. 

That particular failure mode wasn't what I'd call "common" when the FE2 was sold new, but it was reported often enough that early examples of the FE2 (and FM2) with the titanium honeycomb shutter picked up a somewhat iffy reputation. Nikon (as usual) made matters worse by denying the issue and making outlandish claims about "destructive users" before finally redesigning the 1/4000 shutter altogether. IIRC, the FE2 was discontinued prior to the introduction of the revised aluminum non-honeycomb shutter module, which was fitted to the ongoing FM2 production runs.

The good news: most FE2 and FM2 bodies that were going to suffer this major shutter failure did so back in their heyday. The majority of FE2/FM2 that have survived in fully functional condition thru the decades until today are much less likely to be afflicted by this complete physical shutter breakdown. So chances are pretty good you would not experience this disappointment again with another FE2.

I've never had a shutter problem with any of the FM/FE/FM2/FE2 bodies I've owned, or Nikkormats with the earlier Copal blade shutter, but I do get hit with problems in F and F2 shutters. It is common for them to develop self-capping faults (the shutter does not open at the fastest 1/1000 or 1/2000 speeds). At least one has the option to just live with and work around that glitch if we aren't prepared to pay for repairs for awhile: the FE2 shutter crashing into itself and jamming is unfortunately an unrecoverable camera killer.

 

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10 hours ago, BeBu Lamar said:

The shutter failed on my FE (I don't have an FE2). The shutter in any camera can fail in 5 years (let alone 30 plus years) but I wouold say the percentage isn't big. You just have to buy another FE2. Even back in the 80's I don't think replacing the shutter is economical vs buying another camera (although you could buy a brand new camera with warranty back then). In April 1984 B&H was selling the FE2 body for $219.99. 

And my Maxxum 7 is dead and so I can't call it oustanding. My F3 (1982) is still working great. 

 

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Bebu : Appreciate your reply and your reasonings therein. Hopefully my subsequent posts will clarify the points, especially my complaining about Nikon not having a spare shutter in their FE2 drawer, when the camera was only around 5 yrs old.

ps. Sorry to hear about your Maxxum 7 .but as the saying goes : " Win some, lose some " 

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4 hours ago, mike_halliwell said:

Just checking, but were the spares unavailable then or now..

or both?

🤔

It was back in the late 80s when Nikon did not have a replacement shutter for my early FE2.  From what I understand that situation remained, but to be honest Mike, since then I have not asked, as I soon gave that camera away: it's a fair question though😐 

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Completely, even on the M250 position?

 

A few years ago, I had mine just stop, on the 35th shot of a 36 roll.  Seemed time to rewind.

Then I remember how battery check works on these.  If the camera works, the battery is good.

New battery, and it was good as new.  There is no "low battery" warning.

-- glen

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"back in the late 80s when Nikon did not have a replacement shutter" OP

Huh ? - I was ordering Nikon shutter blades for FM2 & FE2 models for at least two decades after their production runs ended.

In fact today, I order 'like new' blades from Ebay. There are sellers who have been harvesting blades for years (less than $90 for the set).

- - - - - 

Now, some may say that the OP is speaking about the FE2 needing a whole new shutter - Well, I've never encountered a 'bricked' shutter block unit unless the camera experienced some kind of major trauma (impact, liquid etc). So blade replacements made for about 95% of the FE2 repairs (these are VERY hearty cameras).

FYI, the early 'Honeycomb' titanium blades were so thin & light (as a result they were great performers) that when the owner blasted air into the film chamber or finger obstructed/touched the blades during loading, they 'went-off-track' ! - After-which they'd try to cock the shutter, then irreversible blades damage occurred.

Going to the more rigid smooth aluminum material limited these customer related issues.

- - - - - 

Finally, of all the models I own (*and I own all of them), the FE2 is my favorite of the electronic Nikon film bodies... 

* Provided image shows units that didn't make it into showcases after a spring cleaning.

L1021571.jpg

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