white balance for out door with a flash?

[chrismitchell]

Over the weekend I want to take photos of people with a Nikon SB-600 flash.  WIthout the flash either cloud or shade will work.  As luck would have it, all of a sudden I have a flash.  I paid q40 to get it.  $5.11 = 40 Quatzales.  People send their trucks to Guatemala to buy fabric or bananas or tomatoes.  Rather than send their truck down here empty they sometimes fill it with pallets from the Good Will store.  Pallets of things that were never sold, like my SB-600.  The battery door was temperamental. the flash did not want to flash.  Until I cleaned the little metal strip that conects the batteries when the door is closed.  I fixed it.  

I have never had a big flash before.  If I gues right?  Should I point the lash behind the camera and try to reflect the flash back onto people with a pillow case or something?

Edited February 10, 2023 by chrismitchell

[William Michael]

You have two questions:

1. White Balance - if you are capturing JPEG only then use "daylight" setting.

Better to capture raw, or raw + JPEG.

 

2. Bouncing the Flash backwards - I suggest you do not do that.

Flash (Speedlites) are relatively low powered, compared to the sun. Typically Flash outdoors is used as "Fill". That is to "fill in the shadows, primarily on the face.

It would be good to have a basic understanding of Guide Numbers. you don 't necessarily need to use the maths, but rather just understand that if you are outside and point the flash at a Subject, primarily lit by Sunlight or in Open Shade, then there will be a DEFINED DISTANCE from Subject To Camera, for each Aperture and ISO selected beyond which the Flash will have no effect on the image.

As a guide, on a sunny day, or in open shade, you need to be about 15ft / 5 mtrs or closer to your Subjects for the Flash to be an effective Fill.

Also depending upon the camera you are using, you also need to have your Shutter Speed at or slower than the Camera's Flash Sync Speed - some cameras are smart enough to know an active flash is attached and will automatically adjust the Shutter Speed this - or - will not allow the shutter to be released if the speed is too fast.

 

WW

[ed_farmer]

Go and practice . . . That's the best answer.  Start with AUTO for WB and see what you get.  I don't know what body you are using (that's more important than what flash) but the Nikon system is pretty solid with all but the oldest digital bodies.  

Worry less about the technical aspects and concentrate on the composition and the results. 

[chrismitchell]

Z5 Nikon. 25 - 200  f4 - 6.3

"Go and practice . . . "

That is what I did last night.  I set a globe on the floor about 15 feet from the camera.  First I took Shoots at about every other aperature setting with Diffraction compensation on and also off.  I was surprised that f20 gave the best picture.  f36 was not very clear, f32 just a tad better.  I zoomed in all the way and focused on Lima Peru, (on the globe.)  Miami was only completly clear at f20.  Does that count as practice?   Z5 was in manual focus and I used a remote.

I also took so many flash photos that I might find out how much imported batteries cost.  Reflected was not the best.  I first tried a white plastic bag, then a stainless bowl then the plastic bag in the bowl.  Flash pointed straight ahead worked better.  The bath room light was on but not the room light.  2 and 3 second exposure at f13.

I think I will try Diffraction compensation out side this afternoon.  Maybe f36 will work better on on the hills, instead of a globe.

 

 

 

 

 

[William Michael]

I think you need to explain more - over the weekend you want to take pictures using the flash outdoors, when exactly - at NIGHT or during DAYLIGHT hours?

 

WW

[John Seaman]

12 hours ago, chrismitchell said:

Maybe f36 will work better on on the hills, instead of a globe.

Why? I would never dream of using such small apertures for general photography.

[Ken Katz]

Agree with John's comment about purposely using f36 for photos other than macro or needing a maximum amount of DOF at the cost of resolution due to diffraction (not a Nikon person, but it is my understanding that Diffraction Compensation adds sharpening on the JPEG file to try to compensate for loss of resolution).

On a bright day, ISO 100, shutter speed of 1/200 (within the max flash sync speed), you should be able to use f11.

It would helpful if you describe what you want to accomplish using daylight fill flash.

 

[chrismitchell]

"Why?"  

I was learnig how my new camera works.  I found a button that said "Diffraction compensation."  I wanted to find out how it works.  

"over the weekend you want to take pictures using the flash outdoors, when exactly "

"WIthout the flash either cloud or shade will work.  "

I guess I did not explain myself.  

I want to take portraits in the mountains, 6515.75 feet ·above sea level.  The kind of a village where 70% of old people dont speak Spanish or English.  A place where it is common to see  people walking around with a bundle of sticks tied to their back.  When was the last time you saw women weaving their own fabric to make their shirt.  No bus up the hill today.  Must be a religous holiday of some sort.  Tomorrow I will try again.  The last bus back is at 4pm.  

Why does it matter, " when exactly "?  Do you think I am only going to use the flash at 3pm for the next ten years or something?  

I am attempting to figure out how to take a better portrait.

 

Edited February 11, 2023 by chrismitchell

[William Michael]

9 hours ago, chrismitchell said:

Why does it matter, " when exactly "?

Because (my) advice would be different, depending whether you were photographing at night or at daytime.

As mentioned previously, in daylight Flash is generally used as "Fill" and my advice was according to that technique.

If you are photographing outdoors at night time - then the Flash would typically be the Main (Key) Light source. In this situation you might try bouncing the Flash.

9 hours ago, chrismitchell said:

Do you think I am only going to use the flash at 3pm for the next ten years or something?  

No, I assumed nothing other than you required advice.  Sarcasm is unwarranted.

The advice you were requesting was unclear to me because there was confusing/contradictory information in your commentary thus more information was requested from you to best tailor my responses: to assist you.

Good luck in your endeavours.

WW

[Alfred_Pennyworth]

Using an external flash can significantly improve your portrait photography, especially in situations where natural light is limited. Since you're new to using a big flash, start by using it on camera. Point the flash directly at your subjects. However, avoid aiming it directly at their faces to reduce the harshness of the light. Also, if you have a ceiling or nearby wall, you can bounce the flash off these surfaces.

You’ll be surprised that fixing bad white balance in photos at the post-production stage will be as easy as adjusting the Temperature Slider in Adobe Lightroom. You can find more about fixing it here.