Alfred_Pennyworth

Sounds Good. My go-to event lens is a Tamron 35-150mm f2.0-2.8 (via a Megadap adapter, but soon there will be a native Z mount version). I also carry a tiny 1" deep Z26mm 2.8 for wide shots, but the Tamron at 35mm is usually wide enough for most wide shots.

I would suggest Isopropyl Alcohol. It can be effective for cleaning stubborn droppings, but it is important to use caution as it can damage the screen's coating if used too frequently or improperly. Otherwise, distilled water is the safest option, as it will not damage the screen's coating.

Your computer monitor and the printer operate in different color spaces, meaning they have different ranges of colors they can accurately reproduce. When you view an image on your monitor, you're seeing it in the RGB color space, while the printer uses CMYK color space. If the image isn't properly converted between these color spaces, it can result in color shifts and changes in brightness. To fix this, make sure that your image is properly converted to the CMYK color space before sending it for printing. Most photo editing software has built-in color conversion tools. You can also consult with the printing company to understand their specific color conversion requirements.

Using an external flash can significantly improve your portrait photography, especially in situations where natural light is limited. Since you're new to using a big flash, start by using it on camera. Point the flash directly at your subjects. However, avoid aiming it directly at their faces to reduce the harshness of the light. Also, if you have a ceiling or nearby wall, you can bounce the flash off these surfaces. You’ll be surprised that fixing bad white balance in photos at the post-production stage will be as easy as adjusting the Temperature Slider in Adobe Lightroom. You can find more about fixing it here.

The error message you're receiving when trying to use your original 24-50mm Nikon lens suggests that the camera is not recognizing the lens properly. It's possible that the contacts on the lens or camera mount are dirty or damaged. Also, make sure that you haven't accidentally changed the camera settings to recognize the lens as a non-CPU lens. Regarding the Canon lens that was sent to you by mistake, you should contact the seller and arrange for a return or replacement. It's important to clarify the situation with them, as it seems like you received an incorrect item.

In general, there is no difference in performance between full-sized SD cards and microSD cards, assuming that you are using a high-quality card. It’s safer to use a microSD card than a full-sized SD card in the camera, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure your camera is microSD card compatible. Most are newer cameras, but it’s always good to check the manual to find out. Second, use a high-quality microSD card. Not all microSD cards are created equal, and some are more reliable than others. When choosing a microSD card for your camera, look for cards with faster speed classes like UHS-II or UHS-III. This allows your camera to quickly write data to the card in order to keep shooting.

They keep deleted albums in the Recently Deleted album for 30 days. If your album is in this album, you can restore it to your account. The customer support will then try to recover your album. If they are successful, they will send you a link to download the album.

Use the search function in Windows Explorer to search for image file extensions (e.g., ".jpg", ".jpeg") on the entire external hard drive. This might help you locate the photos even if they are not organized in folders. Whereas, the XML files you mentioned are likely metadata files associated with your photos. While they might not directly contain the image data, they could still be useful. Some photo management software uses XML files to store information about the location of photos. If you still can't find them, then you might want to consider using photo recovery software like Stellar or Recoverit.

Yes, this is a known issue with some Canon 5D Mark IV cameras. The issue is caused by a software bug in the camera's firmware. The bug prevents the camera from deleting images or formatting the memory card when the "Yes" button is pressed. There is no official fix for this issue yet.

If you are not sure why the third album is showing up, you can try checking to see who created the album. If you are using a shared computer, it is possible that another user has created the album. You can check to see who created the album by right-clicking on it and selecting "Get Info." Also, you can delete it by right-clicking on it and selecting "Delete." Sometimes, Smart Albums are created by iPhoto based on criteria that you specify. You can rename, edit or export the album at your convenience.

This statement is mostly accurate. In modern digital cameras, underexposure alone does not produce noise. Rather, noise is primarily caused by the number of photons (light) hitting the sensor. This means that if a photo is underexposed, it may appear darker, but it will not necessarily be noisier than a properly exposed photo taken with the same ISO and shutter speed settings. However, you may require some extra tools to fix the noise such as Denoise or photo repair tools.

This comment raises an important point about the risks associated with using the new "full format" feature on the Nikon Z9 camera. While it can be a useful tool for permanently deleting data from a memory card, it also means that any files that have not been backed up or transferred to a safe location will be irretrievably lost. Therefore, it's essential to exercise caution and only use this feature when you're absolutely certain that you no longer need the data on the card.

Identifying corrupted images can be a time-consuming task, especially when dealing with a large number of images like in your case. Tools like ImageVerifier or JPEGsnoop can scan your image collection and identify any corrupted files. You can also use some recovery software like Stellar or Recoverit to fix such issues.