BeBu Lamar Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Something else to consider: The paying customers. Do they think she is a professional photographer, or an enthusiast, or a hobbyist? Are they happy with the results? Do they wish the photos were sharper, cleaner, better exposed, composed, etc.? What about PP, would a better camera/lens improve the image, or would more work in Lightroom/Photoshop, etc. be of better value? I think the clients did pay and if they did then they thought she was a pro regardless they liked the pictures or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeBu Lamar Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 So, You've seen her photos? If you haven't you sure assume a lot! If they weren't satisfied, she wouldn't be getting paid. As to Pro / Amature what does it matter if the client is pleased. Amateurs do not have clients. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 "I wasn't sure if I would enjoy photography as a job, rather than a hobby." - Certainly sounds like someone with ambitions to turn pro to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Amateurs do not have clients. They do if they are paid! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaitlynnbell Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 To answer your questions regarding my clients- I did a few free shoots last year to build a portfolio once I felt comfortbale I started charging for my time, and built in the cost of products I would need to purchase (IE newborn shoot, I had limited props and purchased more, I built that into my cost). With my very first newborn, I told my client flat out, I had never done a newborn before, but had met with a local friend who did newborn photography and shadowed a few times. She was comfortable with that and we proceeded. In terms of other shoots, while I did advertise, most of my clients came from word of mouth. I have had a few clients order pictures, even though I do give the edited digitals and print release. I did have 1 out of my 30 clients disappointed in their photos- however they were aware of limited experience, and must not have been too upset as they ended up using my photos for both their Facebook cover photo and profile picture. I hope that clears up any questions you all may have. So in summery, I don't consider myself a pro, how could I? I have been taking this seriously for 7 months and have a lot to learn-at the same time, regardless of if my photos are fantastic or not, my time, gas, and time editing the photos is worth something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Naka Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 The OLD guideline was, you are pro if you make more than half of your income from photography. Otherwise you are an amateur hobbyist that is being paid to shoot gigs. But: From a business perspective, if you have a business, and hold yourself out as a photographer, then you are a pro. Even if this is a small part time job, to suppliment your "day job." And you should file a Schedule C for your photo business. Talk to your accountant. Making it a business, and filing a Schedule C, allows you to write off or depreciate your gear, to the extent that it is used for business (vs pleasure). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaitlynnbell Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 The OLD guideline was, you are pro if you make more than half of your income from photography. Otherwise you are an amateur hobbyist that is being paid to shoot gigs. But: From a business perspective, if you have a business, and hold yourself out as a photographer, then you are a pro. Even if this is a small part time job, to suppliment your "day job." And you should file a Schedule C for your photo business. Talk to your accountant. Making it a business, and filing a Schedule C, allows you to write off or depreciate your gear, to the extent that it is used for business (vs pleasure). I will probably try that for this coming year. This year I made about $3,500 in photography sales for about 30 shoots. I didn't make enough to even validate it as a business. Hopefully this year is more successful as I work on my skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJG Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Actually, the IRS and your state sales tax authority (if you have one) will think you're a business. Talk to an accountant and get some answers as to what you need to do to be a legitimate business. Another important item is liability insurance--if a light falls on a newborn baby you will be glad you have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wouter Willemse Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I wouldn't make so much fuss over "pro" versus "non-pro". It's about getting gear that works for you - that matters, whether you make money out of it, or not. You need tools that enable you to translate your ideas into images. So, the first step is knowing (and understanding) what it takes to transform your vision into images. Before buying anything else, define for yourself clearly why your current gear is holding you back, and which features the new gear must have to resolve that. Frankly, in this thread so far, I really haven't read that yet in clear terms (but that could be my lack of reading skills too). Until you cannot define this clearly for yourself, spending money has a big potential of being money spent on the wrong things (which will only add frustration and empty the wallet). I'd really recommend to continue learn, experiment and deepen your skills with the tools you have. Focus on getting the best out of them, and then learn to understand how and if they hold you back. Only once you properly understand for yourself what is holding you back, it will be much easier to understand what to look for in a new camera, lens, flash or whatever it takes. The gear you have (camera and kitlenses) are perfectly fine tools, so maybe they don't hold you back in any way for quite some time to come. And that frees up the money for much more important investments: workshops, books, trips to expositions, courses etc. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick D. Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I believe OP wasn't asking about her status as pro or amateur, it was about camera upgrade. You may want to try something like D7200, better auto-focus and it will auto-focus with yours prime lenses, as it has focusing screw, dual card slots, better controls with custom settings. Should be available used with reasonable price. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Naka Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I believe OP wasn't asking about her status as pro or amateur, it was about camera upgrade. You may want to try something like D7200, better auto-focus and it will auto-focus with yours prime lenses, as it has focusing screw, dual card slots, better controls with custom settings. Should be available used with reasonable price. Good luck. The ability to AF the old screw drive AF lenses is the primary reason I bought the D70 and D7200. Cuz I have a few of those older lenses. But for just ONE lens, and not an expensive lens, I would not make the decision based on screw drive or not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Garrard Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 But for just ONE lens, and not an expensive lens, I would not make the decision based on screw drive or not. True. Of course, there are a lot of other advantages to a D7x00 series body (and I maintain that the benefits of a D7200 over a D7100 are relatively small unless you're worried about the buffer size, if you're on a budget) - but there's not so much that a modern basic camera can't do either. I notice that Thom Hogan has recently gone off the D5x00 series, which is a data point to suggest that if you are going to upgrade, I'd go up more than one range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Naka Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 I will probably try that for this coming year. This year I made about $3,500 in photography sales for about 30 shoots. I didn't make enough to even validate it as a business. Hopefully this year is more successful as I work on my skills. That is enough to make it a business, and you should be filing a Schedule C. A Schedule C also allows you to write off photo gear and related expenses. Talk to your accountant (because you NEED to track your revenue and expenses) and your tax accountant. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Naka Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 And by the way, depending on where you live, you may have to file for a business license, and pay sales/excise tax. There is an old tax saying "ignorance of the law is no excuse." The government wants their cut, and they will get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeBu Lamar Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 They do if they are paid! ;) If someone got paid he/she is not an amateur. The distinction between a professional and amateur is not about skills, quality of work, but about whether one got paid or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wgpinc Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 A not very expensive piece of equipment you could upgrade to that would pair very nicely with your Nikon DX camera is the excellent Sigma 17-50mm EX DC OS HSM zoom lens for Nikon DSLRs with APS-C sensors. This lens is in every way professional grade with great image quality and versatility. Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM Zoom Lens for Nikon 583306 B&H The 2.8 constant aperture will be much more useful than your present kit lens. Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two23 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I too recommend the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 lens. It's outstanding and affordable. I own one myself. Really, it's the lens that is the most important thing. You need lens upgrades more than a camera. Your camera is decent for what you are doing. I shot a couple of dozen weddings with a pair of D7100 along with family portraits. The quality was always more than good enough for my customers. It's easy to start dumping huge amounts of $$ into camera gear, especially "full frame" stuff. I suggest starting with the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8, and next maybe either the Sigma 50-150mm f2.8 OS (used, from ebay) or a NIkon 70-200mm f4 VR. Eventually, a logical camera upgrade is the Nikon D7200 or even a D7100. For portraits, a good two flash lighting system will make the single biggest difference in you shots--more than lenses & cameras combined. When you control the light, you have real power! Most of what I have I've bought used. I've saved thousands. Kent in SD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two23 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I have been taking this seriously for 7 months and have a lot to learn-at the same time, regardless of if my photos are fantastic or not, my time, gas, and time editing the photos is worth something. I think after getting a new lens (e.g. Sigma 17-50mm f2.8,) your next step is to buy a couple of flash and learn how to use them. The use of Light is everything in a portrait. Kent in SD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaymondC Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 To me it would be, using them as tools to get the job done. A photographer might want that wide aperture F1.4 or F1.2 whatever, but does the clients care about that? If the clients do then perhaps. It sounds you are getting the job done with your current gear now. If I were going to get some better stuff, maybe yeah a 3rd party Sigma or something mid zoom F2.8 and after that maybe a 3rd party again 70-200. This of course after you are generating a steady income. Then the flash lights. One might target the different client base. Not going to please everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Vongries Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 There are no magic lenses - though some provide advantages in particular situations, and all of us have our favorites. The vast majority of work (particular the type the OP is doing) can be done with a decent quality camera and good kit lenses. The newest versions of the Nikon 18-55 and 55-200, as an example, are recommended by Thom Hogan (though he prefers the 70-300 FX to the latter). Certainly primes are great, can be acquired gradually, and with careful shopping, quite reasonably. Kaytlin alone can decide where there are "gaps" in her equipment capability - places where her current gear doesn't let her achieve her photographic vision. The issue then is to proceed in a financially sensible manner - most likely not buying the expensive "best", but a lesser but well reviewed / thought of lens that will do the job. If / when income justifies the expenditure, there is always opportunity to expand and / or upgrade. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_halliwell Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Never having 'shot' a small baby, I'd guess the focus is on the eyes, maybe more so than normal. Although it's probably close to heresy, I think I'd get the DX body that has the best Face Priority function. Whenever moving children are the target, the random motion is just a bit trying and a good test of AF and the operator. Maybe newborns stay still? There is, or was, the issue about whether flash is good for small babies; what's the current view? A couple of modest power LED lights bounced into the ceiling should provide enough light. Great DoF isn't really needed. Although expensive, the Sigma 18-35mm 1.8 should cover most angles, or is that angels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Garrard Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 I think I'd get the DX body that has the best Face Priority function. Sadly, I think that's the D500, which is quite a step up in price. A couple of modest power LED lights bounced into the ceiling should provide enough light. I can vouch for what a few 18650-powered coke-can lights can put out, at least in fairly short bursts before they overheat. A TN30 will dump 4000 lumens at the ceiling and costs about $100, and that can be enough for a video shoot or to light up some stills. My old TN36UT throws out 7000+ lumens and vastly overpowers any mains light in my house when bounced off a white ceiling. Just don't buy something from the dollar store that claims to do 10,000 lumens from a couple of AAs. They're not going to give you the colour balance control of dedicated lights, but as a trade-off between power, portability and cost, they're very appealing. I've just noticed there's a new 11,000 lumen version of the TN36UT. Ooh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CvhKaar Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 Sadly, I think that's the D500, which is quite a step up in price. I can vouch for what a few 18650-powered coke-can lights can put out, at least in fairly short bursts before they overheat. A TN30 will dump 4000 lumens at the ceiling and costs about $100, and that can be enough for a video shoot or to light up some stills. My old TN36UT throws out 7000+ lumens and vastly overpowers any mains light in my house when bounced off a white ceiling. Just don't buy something from the dollar store that claims to do 10,000 lumens from a couple of AAs. They're not going to give you the colour balance control of dedicated lights, but as a trade-off between power, portability and cost, they're very appealing. I've just noticed there's a new 11,000 lumen version of the TN36UT. Ooh. Lighting for baby photograpphy is not always in power of the lighting and minimal DOF,... Mostly soft soft soft (yes triple soft) lighting and enough DOF to give a " full baby portrait ( so head and body and hands and feet "reasonably in focus") is better appreciated, so a totally different ballgame from fascionista photography ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Garrard Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I wondered about DoF when the f/1.8 Sigma came up. The cheap coke can lights are pretty good at flooding a room with illumination (the TN30 has slightly more of a hot spot than the TN36, but not significantly - it's still very much a "flooder" not a "thrower") and may not startle a child as much as a flash (and they don't have a high pitched capacitor recharge noise). They're obviously not quite as bright as a true flash, though. The D500 comment only referred to face tracking. It would be the best at holding focus on an eye, but not by such a vast amount that I'd suggest it as the next purchase. I'm no baby photographer (I like kids but couldn't eat a whole one, and all that). Most of the shots I've seen either do capture the whole child at a smallish aperture, or focus on one part (which emphasises the smallness) - that's why I mentioned a macro lens, for baby blue eyes, nosies and toesies. Technically I suppose a tilt-shift could help with the whole body in focus thing, but that's probably a lot of trouble for the benefit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_halliwell Posted February 7, 2018 Share Posted February 7, 2018 I haven't tried, but I'm not sure a Sigma 17-50mm 2.8 wide open will isolate 'baby blues'? I'd thing the Face Priority of the newer 3000 or 5000 series would be pretty good with a wide aperture AFS/HSM lens to let in plenty of light for theAF module. I remember the 'fuss' when people found out the 'Pro' D810 had Face Priority Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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