Do you use back button focus?

[mark_cunningham1]

<p>Over the years I have been hearing about this technique but never really bothered to check it out. <br>

<br>

I only bothered to check it out because I almost froze my fingers this winter with using my usual autofocus method. I would set up the camera on my tripod to capture a nice shot but it makes it really hard to re-compose while on the tripod. I must grab the focus from my subject and keep my finger on the autofocus (shutter button pressed halfway) while recomposing.And the worst part is, I would loose this grabbed focus after a single shot! So I must repeat the whole process to take another shot.</p>

<p>I think back button focus is the answer here (I can never trust manual focus in winter with my watery eyes!).

<p>Do you use this method? Are there any drawbacks to it?<br>

<br>

</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<blockquote>

<p>Do you use this method?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Always. To the point that I would never purchase a camera body that doesn't have that option.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Are there any drawbacks to it?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Apart from training your thumb to do the right thing (which doesn't take all that long) and adjusting your grip on the camera so your thumb can rest on the back-button, the answer is no. I switched a couple of years back and there's no reason to ever go back to having focus activation via the shutter release button (I could still kick myself to not having made the switch earlier). Being a left-eye shooter makes reaching the button a bit tricky (especially when its placed too far to the left) and the right side of my glasses is covered with smudges after a shoot.</p>

<p>Nikon puts the AF-S/AF-C button in an impossible to reach position when working with longer, heavier lenses. Back-button focus relieves one of the burden to reaching that button to switch between the two modes and putting it under control by your thumb. No need for a separate AF-L button either. Press and lift off to lock the focus, press and hold down for continuous focus. I actually wonder now why cameras need an AF-S/AF-C switch and why anyone would want to leave the AF operation on the half-press of the shutter release.</p>

<p>On older Nikon bodies, the pressing the back button (AF-ON) did not activate VR, so one had to half-press the shutter release to activate it. Luckily, Nikon saw the error of their ways and newer Nikons now activate VR also with the AF-ON button.</p>

[rossb]

<p>I have never heard of it. I use a mechanical camera and just focus the old fashioned way. I have not had an issue with it over the decades. I will read that article however to see what your talking about.</p>

<p>Well I know what it is now. I do own a digital camera and usually I just touch the live view and it will focus on that spot and fire faster then anything else I could possibly do. I cannot stand the electronic viewfinder so I do not put my eye up to it very often but I would just focus and recompose I suppose. I may not ever shoot it again anyway but I figure a person should just focus the camera in whatever way works for them. If back focus is the ticket then go for it. </p>

[mark_cunningham1]

<p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=323291">Dieter Schaefer</a> Thanks for the encouraging words. After reading your reply, I have set a goal to leave this setup for the next few week. I can already see the benefits though (I don't have frostbite lol)<br>

@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=1563061">ross b</a> I guess you mean you use manual focus? I have a hard time deciding if I have good focus or not with MF. So I can be stuck adjusting it for few minutes! Not a pleasant experience in -10C!</p>

[rossb]

<p> Well -10C is a good time to take photos by the fireplace. As far as manual focus I am accustomed to it and it works fine for me. I have a proper diopter adjustment and a bright viewfinder and focus screen with bubbles and a split image.<br>

I have never tried to manual focus my mirrorless camera and just used the EVF and focused with the shutter button and then moved to touching the live view screen. As far as I know manual focus on it would be to hard for me. No bubbles or anything and the EVF is like a bad sci fi movie so I just do not want to even figure out manual focus.<br>

Anyway as I said when it comes to focus or anything then you find the way that works for you and use it to your advantage. </p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>If you use the continuous frame mode and single focus, using the back button will hold the focus between shots. Otherwise the focus may shift. In single-frame mode, using the back button holds the focus when you release and repress the shutter release. That's useful if the main subject is off center and you focus-and-recompose.</p>

<p>If you are in single-frame mode with a moving subject (e.g., children at play), it's easier to use the shutter release. For repeat shots of a stationary subject (e.g., portraits), or on a tripod, it's easier to move the focus area to cover the face and eyes. Since most of my photography fits this category, I can count on one hand the times I've used the back button.</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>I agree with Dieter and Edward, but I feel to see how it really solves your specific issue. You will need to press a button to refocus, and if you want to continuously keep things in focus, you will need to keep a button pressed. So, you'll get cold fingers one way or the other.<br>

Also, frankly, if you use autofocus you will need to check in the viewfinder whether it is in-focus or not; when you use manual focus, you will need to check in the viewfinder for the exact same thing. Not saying that manual focus is the solution in this case, but in most cases as you describe when I use manual focus, I do not need to refocus at all (assuming things that do not move, or move slowly). In my view, when you find yourself battling AF, using manual focus is always something to consider, unless of course you're shooting wildlife or sports. It takes some getting used to, but it's a skill that will always come in handy.<br>

And another possible solution: gloves. I'm using a pair of relatively fleece gloves with give me perfectly fine tactile feel, and have rubber cover to keep very good grip on the camera and gear. Especially if you have a metal tripod or lenses, it makes life a lot nicer in the sub zero temperatures.</p>

[Gup]

<p>I used it once about 10 years ago, or so, on my D2x but didn't take to it. I probably missed something important and decided it wasn't worth the learning curve. <br>

On the other hand, I always use a wired release when working on tripod, especially in the cold (it's currently -22C out my window), so no cold fingers to complain about. I also have 'photo' gloves that help a bit.<br>

I take the wired release for granted but it really is an important part of my kit and is always coiled up in a side pocket in my bag. Some rely on the 2 second delay for camera stability, myself included in a pinch, but the cable offers me much more when composing a shot and it focuses similarly to the top-mounted shutter release button. Only my eyeball needs to be exposed to the air. And it is invaluable when photographing a group because you can shoot while standing to the side and directing your subjects and they often don't even know you've taken the shot (unless your flash-lighting the scene).</p>

 

[AzDavid]

<p>Mark ... I wouldn't hesitate to try it out. I recently made the switch on my Canon 5D MIII and I believe it has made an improvement to the level of focus in most of my images. I shoot a lot of moving subjects, many of them children, and this seemingly small tweak has helped me produce more in-focus shots. As Dieter noted, you might need a couple days to train your thumb to hit the right button but it's not a huge deal. At the beginning, I kept overreaching and my thumb would activate the Live View/Start/Stop button by mistake. But I got over that quickly. I don't think you have anything to lose. If you hate it, you can quickly switch it back to the way it was ... even in mid-shoot if necessary. BTW ... here's another Web site that talks about back button focus: http://www.colesclassroom.com/back-button-focus-explained/?utm_campaign=social-lead-gen&utm_medium=post&utm_source=facebook&utm_content=back-button-focus&utm_term=facebook-fans </p>

[Jochen_S]

<p>"Not really."<br>

Unlike Dieter I neither have cameras known for great AF performance and nor forced myself through the training process yet.<br>

For the average handheld shot I feel more confident about AF on shutter button. - I suppose it will take 2 weeks of daily dry-swimming at home to get used (/ drilled) to back button focusing. Also keep in mind (how) to turn it off again, when you share your camera with disinterested average people.<br>

Wouldn't it be an option to switch your AF off once it did it's job? - Or is that tiny lever way too far from glove friendly? Back button focus, no matter how clumsily you are doing it, sounds like the way to go for your tripod shots though!</p>

[Leslie Reid]

<p>I use back-button focus (Canon 80D) in all situations but two because I almost always need to recompose and I very often want to lock the exposure on something I don't want to focus on--separating the two functions is really convenient for the way I shoot. The two exceptions: (1) if I'm using a tripod, I use the touch screen in live view both to select the focus point and to focus [i seem to rarely use the tripod at heights where it's easy to look through the viewfinder]; and (2) if I'm shooting burst mode for continuous action, I use the shutter button for both functions--I've programmed one of the custom shooting modes for this so that it's quickly accessible. It was very easy to get used to; now my only tripping-up point is when I first switch to the custom mode and momentarily can't figure out why I can't focus.</p>

[Sanford]

<p>I used it today with the XE1 in manual mode. Works well for me. What I can't get work for me is the zone focus method. Setting my 27mm lens to F16 and 10 ft usually means nothing will be in focus. The XT10 allows you to use the manual focus button even in AF mode.</p>

[GerrySiegel]

No, I don't see a real advantage. But if it fits your approach, fine. My challenge with total customization is that I forget what is what sometimes. I guess I am unique in that regard...gs My cameras have a focus lock button which is easy to find. And the icon remains in the finder...so yeah, no biggie. Anything which speeds the process is useful I agree. Practice practice will do the same as well. Happy trails I say.

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Back button AE lock is a good thing. That I use, especially for concerts and theatrical event, where there is a particularly bright or dark background relative to the subject. In particular, it's compatible with focus-and-compose strategy</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<blockquote>

<p>If you are in single-frame mode with a moving subject (e.g., children at play), it's easier to use the shutter release.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Not to take this off topic, but why would one want to use single frame mode for something that moves? I have the feeling I am missing something here. Before I started to use back button focus, my number one reason for OOF images had been that I was in the single frame mode but the subject was moving. The real advantage in using back button focusing is that there is no longer a need to switch the camera from continuous to single frame mode.</p>

<p>On the D500 and D5, Nikon made a very nice addition in form of the joystick that can be used to move AF points around and programmed to AF-ON when depressed. One no longer needs to move the thumb from the AF-ON button to the direction pad back and forth. Now I am waiting for the next step in the evolution that moves that stick to where the AF-ON button is now since there is no need for both. It is definitely a lot less convenient to change AF points on my Sony A7 than it is on any of my Nikons.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You will need to press a button to refocus, and if you want to continuously keep things in focus, you will need to keep a button pressed. So, you'll get cold fingers one way or the other.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Certainly true, back button focus doesn't solve the issue of cold fingers completely but at least one doesn't have to refocus after every shot like one has to if AF is initiated with the shutter release.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Back button AE lock is a good thing.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>With back button focusing there is no need for that at all (at least not with Nikon, I can't really speak for other brands which may do things differently). The AE-L/AF-L button on my Nikons was never used for what's printed on it; I never felt the need for it.</p>

<p>I am not trying to convince anyone to switch to back button focusing although to get me to try it in earnest someone in a different forum had to convince me (and did a very good job at it). I am glad to have had those discussions and that I did give it a try.</p>

[GerrySiegel]

In the cold I might suggest a focus and shutter relaease button you can keep with your warm fingers in a jacket. I mean do not get chillblains for a lousy photo?

[Matthew Currie]

<p>I use back button focus, and have for some time. I like it, and find it very handy for most things. I don't think there's any real drawback once you're used to doing it. </p>

<p>If you're shooting a stationary object on a tripod, you can focus at will, recompose, and not touch the camera again until you shoot. </p>

<p>I should add, depending on what kind of camera you're using, that unfortunately on some, at least, BBF does not work with the infrared remote, which is a pity if you're using it as antidote to freezing hands. </p>

<p>My Nikon d3200 has a few quirks in the way BBF operates, including that it does not work at all in any setting with remote, and it does not work in Live View in AFF mode, only in AFA. It will revert to shutter button (or remote button) focus in those modes. </p>

<p>On the D7100, on the other hand, BBF works correctly throughout. But it's a good idea to try things out before you get into the field, to make sure it all works as you expect.</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>No! Never.</p>

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>Yes, I always use it when using autofocus. With modern lenses (full time manual focus override) it allows one to freely choose between turning the manual focus ring, activating autofocus (in my case always in continuous mode) or taking shots inpendently without having to change any switch settings. The camera will not focus when I press the shutter button which is a great relief for many situations (as you mention for tripod work, but also elsewhere).</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<blockquote>

<p>Not to take this off topic, but why would one want to use single frame mode for something that moves?<br>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No offense taken. I made my bones shooting basketball tournaments with a Leica, sitting on the floor behind the basket. You learn to anticipate the peak of action. The same principal applies to street photography as exemplified by Cartier-Bresson, or even family pictures of children at play.<br>

<br>

Even at 8-12 frames per second (my Sony blazes away at 5 fps), the changes of getting "THE" shot improves only slightly. We're getting lazy in the digital age, compared to a mere 36 shots (40 from bulk) before you had to change rolls.</p>

[Gup]

<blockquote>

<p>Not to take this off topic, but why would one want to use single frame mode for something that moves?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well, I've been thinking about this since I first read it. I agree with Edward's explanation. <br>

Personally, I've never used anything but single frame mode. I tried the machine gun mode on my D2x a dozen years ago, or so, and never wanted to deal with all those images on my computer ever again. I've earned a living with my camera for decades and I guess old habits die hard. If your focus is off because something is moving then no number of frames is going to fix that, only shutter speed, or flash, possibly. </p><div></div>

[mark_cunningham1]

<p>I am yet to practice BBF on a moving subject. Can someone explain to me if I have to press the AE-ON button multiple times for a moving subject? Or do I just press it once and let the AI Servo take care of the tracking and re-focusing?</p>

[Dieter Schaefer]

<p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=419409">Edward Ingold</a> and @<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=695697">Gup Jeffries</a>: thanks for the replies; I now realize that I understood the post wrongly (single frame mode apparently refers to what the "S" drive setting does on Nikon: take one shot per shutter release press I had somehow gotten my wire crossed and thought it referred to AF-S mode, i.e., single focus). Nonetheless, I got the point of the most recent two posts. I shoot a lot of "action" that doesn't really have a culminating "peak" (like planes or birds flying by) and a fast frame rate combined with continuous AF just allows me to pick the best from the litter (which then hopefully is also the one without the subject blinking, bird's wing in a bad position, pilot's face obscured etc.). FWIW, my cameras are always in continuous drive mode; I just learn to lift the finger off when I only want to take one shot. On the D500 with 10fps in CH mode, that so far has proven to be nigh impossible; but no such issue with frame rates at around 5 or 6fps.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>activating autofocus (in my case always in continuous mode)</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is what I had not explicitly stated in my posts. To me not having to switch the camera from AF-S to AF-C (aka single focus to continuous focus) via their dedicated button or switch alone makes using back button focusing worthwhile (where I get that same result using my thumb and either lifting off after focus is attained (single focus) or keeping the button depressed (continuous AF). Everything Ilkka mentions is just more icing on the cake. </p>

 

[Spearhead]

<blockquote>

<p>To me not having to switch the camera from AF-S to AF-C</p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

This is one of the biggest advantages of back button focus. </p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>Mark Cunningham: If your camera is set to AFC (or whatever your brand's continuous servo tracking mode is called) it will track as long as the back button is pressed, just the same as holding the shutter button down would do normally. </p>

<p>On my D3200, one cannot switch to release priority with either AFC mode, so the only way to get release priority and AF together is with back button focus*. If you're tracking a bird in flight, in AFC, and lose focus lock with shutter button AF, it won't fire, but with BBF you can let go of the button and the camera switches to release priority and allows a shot. That's less of an issue in higher end cameras that allow you to choose priority, but still, just as BBF allows you to get the benefits of both single and continuous servo without resetting, it also allows you to get release priority when focus priority is on. </p>

<p>* I should note that among the undocumented features of the D3200, along, it seems, with the D7100 and probably others, is that focus priority is modified in Live View. Focus will be attempted before the shutter fires but if it is not successful, the shutter will fire after a second or two. In Live View, even with focus priority set, you can take a picture with the lens cap on. </p>