need help selecting macro lens

[alisa_farin]

<p>I have a Samsung S730 camera and want to do something like this Russian guy did here:<a href="http://www.demilked.com/macro-snowflakes-diy-camera-alexey-kljatov/">http://www.demilked.com/macro-snowflakes-diy-camera-alexey-kljatov/</a><br>

just so I can take decent macro photos of some jewelry I want to sell on eBay. I obviously don't want to invest money in a new camera or anything too expensive, but just want to take a closer/better macro shot of the items I need to sell. I checked out the lens the guy in the article used but it would cost about $45.00 inc. shipping to get the same one, as all those for sale are located in Russia. Since I know next to nothing about photography and camera equipment, I just want to ask if it's possible to get a similar type of lens made by another company that would be likely to be found on eBay by a seller in USA for less than $20 inc. shipping. What model/type of lens would be recommended to get a good macro closeup if held in front of the camera in a similar manner as that guy did? It doesn't have to get microscopically close like his pic of snowflakes, just much better than what the camera's built-in macro mode does and for the camera to be able to focus through the lens (since it won't be attached to the camera or drawing power from the camera for focus). Thanks!</p>

[alan_olander1664878205]

<p>The setup in the link could only be used for extreme close-ups of snowflakes and other very small objects. It couldn't be used for larger objects like jewelry, most likely. (It wouldn't be able to focus on them.)<br>

The macro mode on your camera allows very close focusing, and it is doubtful any type of add-on lens would provide better results. Close-up photography requires a tripod or use of flash in many instances to prevent motion blur. What is it about the quality of your close-up images that you don't like?<br>

</p>

[alisa_farin]

<p>I attached a 10x jeweler's loupe with rubber bands but I want the sharper, closer focus. The jeweler's loupe has crappy quality kinda cloudy lens. I have diamond jewelry I need to sell and want to get good clarity close-ups of the stones. The macro ode on my camera does not get close enough. I don't use a tripod. I have made a home-made light box with printer paper and drinking straws and use the soup can to set the camera on and use the timer with macro setting. I just wanted to buy a lens to set in front of the camera to get a better macro closeup but need to know what model to type into the search box at eBay. typing "44M-5" only bring up the lenses that were more pricey.</p>

[Jochen_S]

<p>Everything "50mm f2 (or f1.7 to f1.9)" should be quite comparable. - Minolta Topcon Pentax Practika Olympus... - The brand shouldn't matter much at all. You'll also be likely to find cameras with lens on yardsales etc in that price range.<br>

Side note: I fear you are planning a nightmareish project. Do you really need frame filling close ups of smaller than a pinhead gem stones? - I'd try using the camera as is first and check how I get these few pixels for ebay together. - Cropping might be an option, even if you are binning a lot of pixels to gain sharpness.</p>

[alisa_farin]

<p>I was basically looking for a lens that would allow more magnification than the camera's built-in lens but without needing to adjust the focus of the lens, just let the camera focus it's own lens through it. The jeweler's loupe I had bought was cheap quality when it arrived in the mail and I'm not even sure the lens is glass, though it is bigger in diameter than my small glass 10x jeweler's loupe which I already had and is easier to focus through it. Still the shots were not as magnified as I had wanted. Possibly it was misrepresented and is not 10x magnification but I could not tell. I took pics on macro mode with and without and it seemed to be 2x at best in my opinion. It was a wider diameter than the camera's own lens and so it was easy to attach it to the camera with rubber bands and focus right through it. I could not find a loupe with a handle that would be 30x or more though so then I recalled reading the article about the Russian photographer and his home-made rig haha. I then tried looking at macro lenses at eBay but there are hundreds and I'm not sure if I buy one if it would work like I need. Some of them apparently draw power from the camera (after you attach them to the model of camera to which they actually belong) for focusing. As I'm essentially jerry rigging then obviously the lens would not focus with my camera since it would not be attached to the camera. I don't normally photograph jewelry and therefore don't want to invest in buying a fancy camera or expensive lenses just to take a few pics for an auction.</p>

[alisa_farin]

<p>Thank you Jochen Schrey. I will check out those lenses at eBay. Also the gemstones are 5mm or larger in size in the settings (1/2 - 1 carat for the diamonds and other non-diamond gems at larger carat weight). I figured the bidders would appreciate a magnified view of the stones for determining value. Then the inclusions would be visible at better magnification. It's tough to get the value of the items as a seller if I post the items with crap photos :(</p>

[alisa_farin]

<p>I had been looking at stuff such as this last week: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=131785322762<br>

but not knowing if it was the right thing. It said macro but also wide angle and looked like for a video camera as well. Then these two as well:<br>

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=172144788157<br>

I wasn't sure about these either: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291517115594</p>

[AJG]

<p>If you're looking for high quality images that help sell products, any of the really cheap alternatives for macro work are unlikely to make you happy. The first thing I would buy for the kind of work you're doing is a decent tripod, something that can really hold the camera steady at small apertures and long exposures. You won't find this for $20 on eBay, unfortunately, although buying a used tripod locally can be a good idea since it is fairly easy to check that it works as it is supposed to and excessive were and tear will be obvious. And while your ability to improvise is admirable, is it the most efficient use of your time in running your business? Only you can answer that question.</p>

[User_6502147]

<p>Alisa, some macro lenses are better than others. People experiment with variety of gadgets. Usually, is what you pay for. Sure there are exceptions and sometimes you find a gem among cameras that have a good macro.</p>

<p>The following shot was taken 8yrs ago when I had Fujifilm S8000fd (8MP)...at Von Duzen Gardens in Vancouver, BC. The camera had a macro and super macro settings....and the latter was used. Pls note, this was taken (all settings in manual) except for AF; aperture at F8.....and everything is in focus (small sensor helps:>). I had to judge the image via the LCD....roughly 3' away, while sitting on the edge of the pond....wondering if the dragon fly will take off just at the time when I get it close enough....</p>

<p>Anyway, for the most part it's light and technique....some pp is often necessary. I've seen people shoot entire catalog of items (for a store) with PS camera....and doing fantastic job. </p>

<p>Good luck finding the magic bullet.</p>

<p>Les</p><div></div>

[jcuknz]

<p>Stay clear of the Ebay/ Amazon offering which for <$30 are likely rubbish and check with B&H New York or Adorama for a good quality close-up lens .... also what editing programme do you have. To sell on Ebay etc you do not need more than 1000x1000 pixels.<br>

Read my answer on adjacent thread .. guy wants to know similar project to you<br>

http://www.photo.net/beginner-photography-questions-forum/00dwGD</p>

[Tony Parsons]

<p>Hi, Alisa,<br>

Bit late on this one - sorry. Have you looked at close-up lenses, that screw into the lens filter thread ? They are relatively inexpensive, require no exposure correction and, provided you stop the lens down, are pretty good quality. Should be available from your local camera shop, maybe second hand, or else look on Ebay. No moving parts, so nothing to go wrong !<br>

Tony</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>Just a further comment ....to get tightly framed shots you do not always have to get in close, which can be counter productive for various reasons. <br>

If you bought a 'kit' you may well have a telephoto lens/ or long zoom which is my preference for filling the frame with small objects. Here we use the 'close-up lens' to overcome the inability of long lens to focus close and the CU lens gives you the opportunity to work from a bit further back. A CU lens is normally of little use when used on 'short' lens ... the small amount of magnification is better gained in editing. <br>

Typically with my 430mm lens and a two dioptre [ 500mm/20 inch] CU lens I can work between 13 and 20 inches from the subject and 1.5 inches across subject fills the frame at 13". I do not use more powerful CU lens because sadly IQ falls off badly in most cases. Often when using such lens the edges are soft but if the object just fills part of the frame like half inch in 1.5"that is not that serious a problem.<br>

For some subjects it is better to use extension tubes and unfortunately with modern gear you need the more expensive 'auto extension tubes'as your lens needs to be coupled to the camera body electronicqlly thqt cheqper 'plain tubes' do not provide.<br>

When I used a bridge camera i could only use CU lens but now with MFT ILC I have auto extension tubes for a better result even though I only have 280 instead of 430 max zoom</p><div></div>

[jcuknz]

<p>Having just done what I should have done first and found you have a basic P&S camera much of what I have wrritten is of litle use to you ... sorry. but one useful tip is that your camera will work fine whatever [ almost] whatever you put in front of itds lens and you may need [ most likely] have to cellotape a lens to the lens body ... something which folk did years ago when they didn't have a filter thread to the lens ... and I suggest you start with any old [ not scratched :-) ]magnifying glass lying around your place to learn how big s aubject in frame you can achive ... will not cost you much and I will post a shot taken with a 60cent mag glass taped to the front of my bridge camera as an example of what can be done of one of my G scale model railway figures</p><div></div>

[jcuknz]

<p>Now not so big a magnification at about your max zoom.</p>

<p>Further idea .. any lens you buy of say 50mm [ old film lens] can be reversed and held in front of your camera lens [ similar to how the russian did it but you could well get vignetting as I did when I tried it with my early P&S camera with only a 8omm max zoom.</p><div></div>

[jcuknz]

<p>My 55mm film camera lens reverse in front of my Canon s20 P&S<br /> But for your project you are going to need a reasonably good editor and Paint dot Net a free download while a bit kacky compared to my regular editor should be able to do the job for you.</p><div></div>

[jcuknz]

<p>A final tip before I go for tea/dinner ..<br /> 50mm lens maybe here<br /> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=50mm%20lens&_trksid=p2058484.m4389<br /> But I would check out what Cash Converters have if there is one nearby you or KEH mail order<br /> I bought my legacy lens and Pentax body from them in 1996 and the body lasted four months [ Water damage I didn't spot] but lens good as gold today in 2016 :)<br /> KEH have quite a few<br /> https://www.keh.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?cat=26&q=50mm<br /> I bought my MFT lens from them, all US$700 of it :-)</p>

<p>EDIT This lens for $29 is simular to what I got from CCs\<br>

https://www.keh.com/shop/pentax-smc-p-a-50mm-f2-0-lens.html</p>