Dave16 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>I notice in my facsimile<strong> Leica instructions for 111a </strong>that Leica suggest the camera (and presumably my 111c) can be handheld at slow speeds up to 1/2 sec.<br> I used my camera at slow speeds last week - the results come back this weekend, and wondered what others think, or have experienced when shooting an LTM at slow speeds handheld?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Taylor Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>With wide lenses and good technique can probably be done but some sharpness will probably be sacrificed.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhbebb Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>Back in the day, many Leica users enlarged their pix to no bigger than postcard size - this has a big bearing on whether a pic is acceptably sharp. Provided that the camera shutter release is working perfectly smoothly and the photog uses a technique such as elbows into sides, inhale deeply, exhale and immediately push the button, it is possible to work at a half sec handheld with a steady hand, success rate may be less than 100 percent.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johncox Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>I've personally had good luck on more modern film slrs at that speed and smallish enlargements. I would guess with a IIIc it would be no different.</p> <p>David is right, technique is very important for this to work. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave16 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>Shooting in low light last week I was surprised at how steady I could hold the camera. The technique for shooting slow speed as David stated is also well-described in the manual, and is really no different to shooting a small bore rifle accurately.<br> As I said, results back at the weekend. I'll post some as a continuation of this thread.<br> Thanks for contributing guys. I'm learning a lot about this camera, the new (old) lens helps, as does the bright line finder and a more accurate exposure meter - a new acquisition which cost me very little.<br> I have to say that I find the 111c much nicer to use than my M6. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave16 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p><img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/CNV00011%20copy_zpsyi3gpftg.jpg" alt="" width="320" height="236" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhbebb Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>David, if you want more info on this subject, look out for a book called "My Way With The Miniature" by Lancelot Vining (very cheap secondhand on e-bay). Not so cheap but also good is "My Life" by Bert Hardy. These pioneers of 35mm photography describe how they would very often shoot with a Contax at 1/5 and f1.5 when necessary, with a good success rate. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Smith Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>Certainly you can do it, but it will not be considered sharp by the pixel peeping standards of today, but sharp enough for the purpose back then (if you were lucky).</p> Robin Smith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mukul_dube Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>While I was usually safe at 1/5 or 1/4 sec. with M Leicas and wide or normal lenses, I could not do better than 1/15 sec. with screw mounts even when I put my right thumb under the camera. I <em>think</em> the shutter releases were correctly adjusted.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 <p>Oskar Barnack knew what he was doing when he designed the Original Leica with 1/20 to 1/500 second shutter speeds.<br> At 1/20 one can count on nearly all shots to be not-shaky, if any slower the percentage goes down, down, down like a Johnny Cash lyric. (More a matter of luck than skill.)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave16 Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 <p>Bill,<br> Tis as you said.<br> At 1/20th the camera is steady (best of three)……..<br> <img src="http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx221/dogbloke/CNV00009%20copy_zps7snsivzd.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="686" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 <p>My favorite LTM lens is 35mm, so I start a little closer than with a 50mm lens.</p> <p>Find something to lean against, and you might get one or two more stops. </p> <p>I the LTM camera days, I do remember museum shots without flash at 1/15 or 1/8, and if needed I might go to 1/4. So, only one stop from the suggested 1/2.</p> <p>Note that without the mirror movement, you can probably hold a IIIc more still than an SLR.</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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