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Film and bulk film cost


jo_dad

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<p>This is just my opinion...... Tri-X is a good film, just *really* not worth the price. I can't imagine what you guys are paying for it there. Many films are starting to fall into that Category. On your side of the pond, you have many manufacturers of film to choose from before the price get's adjusted for the sucker North America market.</p>

<p>Ultimately it's really about the combination of shooting style, developer and film. I usually use ORWO UN54/N74+ with a pyro developer that gives me supior results.</p>

<p>I bulk load and have no reason to stop. I buy 400' rolls from ORWO and provides great economy. </p>

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If you want to save on film costs the way to go is:

 

FOMA FP100/FP200/FP400/Retropan 320 Soft.

OrWo Filmotec, Indeed pyro (cat-HDC) is a very good combination.

Kodak 5222 Double-X (at least at the USA prices) cine dpt.

Rollei RPX-100/400, Retro 80(S)/400(S).

 

Looking at the big manufacturers the saving on bulk is a minimum, for Tri-X 400 you are even spending more money with

bulk loading.

 

In bulk I am using N74+ (ISO 400) and 5222 XX where the ISO 250 XX has my preference although N74+ iso 320-400 in

Pyrocat-HDC is a very good combination. Kodak 5222 Double-X I am developing in HC-110 (B).

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<p>Not sure how the price comparison would go in the UK, but in the states Ilford bulk 100' rolls are about half the cost of Tri-X. The real bargain, though, are the Kentmere films which run about 40 USD for a bulk roll. Eastman 5222 runs more than the Ilford bulk, but a lot less than Tri-X. </p>
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Hi,

My two cents. I have several bulk film loaders. I keep Ilford Delta 100 & 400 & Pan F + 50, and Tri-X on hand. I find I

use the Tri-X the least. Tri-X is a beautiful film that I've used for 50 years, but I get better results from the Delta 400 in

35mm. The Delta 400 has finer grain and beautiful tonal properties. It's less contrasty than TMAX 400 ( which I used to

keep in bulk). It's a matter of personal taste, if Panatomic-X or Plus-X were still available I'd be shooting that.

The prices have gone crazy what happened to 100' for $40? It's still worth it, as long as your doing your own

processing. You have the option of making rolls from 6 to 40 exposures and Kodak Snap cap cassettes can still be found

on EBay.

I'm glad to see that I'm not alone enjoying film.

Regards,

Rick

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<p>A word about Ilford Pan F+. Some users have stated that its contrast is tough to tame, but I've not had that problem since I switched to Kodak's HC110 developer about a decade ago. In the past I've used this film with D-76, Paterson FX-39, and Rodinal. Didn't care for the Rodinal results, but I got my best results rating it at E.I. 25 in D-76 and FX-39 and reducing time. Here in the USA Ilford Pan F+ is the least expensive bulk film. I think about 53 USD at Adorama. The only way to go cheaper at similar ISO to Delta 100 is the Kentmere 100 (a decent film) or Arista EDU 100. The Arista is made by Foma.</p>
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<p>Check this site out http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ since it has the best bulk prices I have found. I ONLY buy the Ultrafine Xtreme 100 and 400 in bulk and it's great film. It's suppose to be Kentmere film and I think that to be true. I also use the Xtreme 100 and 400 in 120 size and it's a really fine film in Xtol replenished developer. Their Xtreme brand films are first rate stuff. Just my 2 cents.</p>
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<p>I love that kind of thread.<br>

Personnally, I have been exploring several films since my return to films some 6 years ago.<br>

In terms of cost, Foma is pretty much affordable with films and paper (Arista EDU with Freestyle) and the results are very much reasonable.<br>

In a recent past, Fujifilm was selling his last films under LegacyPro. They were fantastic films and at a good price. It's unfortunate it is now gone.<br>

In Canada, the real problem is the transportation cost, especially from US. Otherwise, i would order a lot more from Ultrafine Online (Ultrafine Extrem 100 and 400) or from Freestyle (Foma products as well as Arista EDU). By the way, rumor has it that the Extrem line is Kentmere. Although the chart dev is quite similar, I find Extrem more constrasty that Kentmere which is rather flat.<br>

I regret that Kodak 125 Plus-X is gone (still available on Ultrafine Online). Silvermax 100 does the job but it is costly.</p>

 

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<p>Alain,<br>

I really like the Xtreme brand films, but as far as them being Kentmere or not? I have no idea since I have never used and Kentmere films. All I know is that I had heard that Xtreme 400 was grainy and not the greatest 400 speed film. Well, I finally tried it in 120 format size. I used Xtol replenished developer and have come to the conclusion that it is very good in Xtol. I don't worship grain like some folks so when I say very good I mean very little grain showing, still very sharp and I'm getting very close to box speed. To me that's a win, win, win!</p>

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<p>I have been using PanF+ in Diafine for some time, since I bought a 100 foot roll outdated (and kept refrigerated) at a local store for half price. Though the Diafine EI rating is only 80, compared to Panatomic-X at 160 or more, I still like it. </p>

<p>But I now have some actual Panatomic-X, too.</p>

<p>All the Ilford films are reasonably priced in 100 foot rolls, either new from camera stores or mail order, or from eBay. </p>

<p>Kodak Tri-X now costs more per foot (or metre) in 100 foot (30.5m) rolls than it does presupposed in 36 exposure rolls. Unless you have the Nikon F 250 exposure back, no reason to buy the 100ft roll.</p>

<p> </p>

-- glen

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<p>John,<br>

Well I kind of like the Extrem films 100 or 400 as well.<br>

The 400 one might be grainy with several developers but, honestly, that hasn't been noticed by me.<br>

Concerning Kentmere, I did try the film a several occasions. I am no expert but either I go with the massive dev chart or longer dev time, the results aren't satisfying to me in regard the contrast. That is unfortunate coz Kentmere films are very much affordable. <br>

<br />Keep shooting films!</p>

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<p>Hello everyone. Just to add my 2 cents to John's, so were almost at a nickel. The Ultrafine Xtreme emulsions behave wonderfully in Obsidian Aqua, a pyro like staining developer. See Jay Defahr's blog site for the formula. It's easy to make and use, and cheap. My "standard" time for either 100 or 400, in 35 or 120, is 18 minutes, with +/- 2 minutes for Zone shifts. Exposures are at 50 and 250 asa. Cost suits my somewhat Scotish background. I am still trying to work out their "new", sorta "T" grain emulsion material labeled "Max". Bill</p><div>00e8Ly-565299284.jpg.c2f018dfdd7a83b728fbed5cfdbb1350.jpg</div>
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<p>Bill,<br>

I tried both 100 and 400 Xtreme in Jay's 510-pyro and it was not as good as my results with Xtol replenished. I suppose I could tweak and play with that combo more, but I'm so pleased with Xtol-R that I'm sticking to it for a spell. Also, I've had excellent results using Xtol-R with FP4+ and very good results with HP5+. I have some PanF+ I'll be dipping in it when I get back home in a few weeks.</p>

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  • 2 weeks later...
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<p>I did some side-by-side tests with Tri-X vs HP5+ (Ilford's equivalent) recently to see which I preferred. For my own tastes, I preferred TriX, but not enough to pay more than twice as much for it. Subsequently bought a 100' roll of HP5+ and have been very happy with it.<br>

<br />Depending on the speed you need, FP4+ is another great film from Ilford. If you don't like classic grain and want something a little more modern, Delta 100 and 400 are also very good films available for pretty reasonable prices in 100' rolls. Still can't get my head wrapped around who is buying $120 rolls of TriX.</p>

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