Fujicolor 100 135-36 VS Lomography Color Negative 100 135-36 (Cheapo films)

[justin_ng1]

<p>I can't decide on which one I should buy. They both cost nearly the same, and I will bring them along on my vacation next week. Thanks :) </p>

<p>Btw I'm using the ektar 100 atm</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>The fujicolor will probably be "in date" film. That would be enough for me.</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Yea I was gonna go for that haha</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Ah also, what do you recommend me using? ISO 100 or 400? I will mainly be going outdoors, and the weather's gonna be like cloudy-partly sunny. I'm new to this so I apologise if I don't make sense. Thanks!</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>I always tend to use a CP which looses a couple of stops. I tend to shoot 400 out doors. If you are shooting bare, the 100 should be fine.</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Alright thanks!</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Btw, I'm not sure i you meant "shooting bare" in my way, what do you mean by that?</p>

[peterbcarter]

<p>No filters. All filters block light to some degree. That's how they work. ISO 400 film down 2 stops gives me 100 equiv, A polorizer blocks 2 stops.</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Ahh </p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Thanks anyways~</p>

[James G. Dainis]

CP = circular polarizer (filter).

[craig_shearman1]

<p>In a day when film photography is struggling to stay alive, I would regard Lomography-brand film as a no-name crapshoot that diverts badly needed sales away from Kodak and Fuji. IMHO, if you want to shoot film, stick with the established name brands that are pretty much guaranteed to give good results. Lomography has built its oddball reputation around bad results that somehow look "cool" to some people in a way that contradicts most of the tradtional standards of good photography.</p>

[c_watson1]

Craig gets it. Lomography was a lame attempt to brand film photography that thankfully died once the hipsters it attracted

moved on to the next shiny object. If you want film tomorrow, buy fresh film today. Simple.

[justin_ng1]

<p>Thanks for the detailed answers guys haha :) Yea I always thought lomography was kinda lame</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Ah one more question. So I took two shots with my new roll as to make sure the film is in place. so does it mean that I have 34 left, or 36? Thanks</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>With no new Fujicolor 100 (or Superia 100) as well as Reala (also ISO 100) the only ISO 100 I'd use is Kodak's Ektar 100. If you want less saturation consider Kodak's Portra 160. It is very fine-grained and you can increase saturation in post-processing if desired. For Fuji I like the Superia 200 as I can get it at the local Wally World in a 4 pack.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>I would tend to ue the real fujifilm.<br>

I READ-POSSIBLY HERE-<br>

THAT SOME THIRD PARTY FILM MIGHT BE REALLY kODAK OR fUJI.<br>

i HEARD THAT SOME THIRD PARTY FILMS WERE AN OLDER VERSION STILL MADE BY FUJI.<br>

POSSIBLY STORED BY FUJI ONDER OPTIMASL CONDITIONS<br>

SO IT MAY BE PERFECTLY FINE FILM.</p>

<p>i KNOW THAT PHOTOWAREHOUSE ( UNTRAFINEONLINE)<br>

STILL HAD SOME kONICA AND AGFA COLOR FILM.'<br>

iSERIOUSLY DOUBT THAT SUCH FILM IS OUT OF DATE'POSSIBLY COLD STORED IN BULK.</p>

<p>uNLESS FILM HAS BEEN ABUSED <br>

IT SHOULD ME OK.<br>

i HAD A 22 YEAR OLD ROLL OF KODACOLOR 400. NEVER CAREFULLY STORED AND IT WAS FINE.<br>

i WOULD WORRY MORE ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THE PROCESING</p>

[justin_ng1]

<p>Thanks guys~~ </p>

<p>Stupid question but how do I know if I used the whole film? The knob won't let me turn after I've used the whole roll right? :)</p>

[glen_h]

<p>Usually the knob won't turn, partway through winding to the next frame.</p>

<p>I am not sure that is true of all cameras, though.</p>

<p>Normally you shoot two to get to the first real frame, and then most often get 38 more. The last one might get cut off in processing, or otherwise not work. Don't count on it. </p>

<p><br />For slides, there is normally no cost to an extra frame. </p>

<p>If you get prints, they will charge for each print, so it is better not to go so far, such that they will print a frame that isn't quite right.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>But Lomography has a 110 film, which most others don't.</p>

<p>If you happen to want 110 film.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>It seems that my Mercury II doesn't stop winding at the end. Until the end, it advances the film properly, but at the end, all exposures are on the same part of the film.</p>

[david_collins7]

<p>I have a cheep point and shoot that does better with 100 speed film. It tends to overexpose the higher speeds.<br>

Does anybody know where I can get 100 speed film in the US? other than the pricey Kodak Ektar?<br>

I think I did read Kodak, and Fuji stopped sales of film slower than 200 in the US.</p>