justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>I can't decide on which one I should buy. They both cost nearly the same, and I will bring them along on my vacation next week. Thanks :) </p> <p>Btw I'm using the ektar 100 atm</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>The fujicolor will probably be "in date" film. That would be enough for me.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Yea I was gonna go for that haha</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Ah also, what do you recommend me using? ISO 100 or 400? I will mainly be going outdoors, and the weather's gonna be like cloudy-partly sunny. I'm new to this so I apologise if I don't make sense. Thanks!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>I always tend to use a CP which looses a couple of stops. I tend to shoot 400 out doors. If you are shooting bare, the 100 should be fine.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Alright thanks!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Btw, I'm not sure i you meant "shooting bare" in my way, what do you mean by that?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterbcarter Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>No filters. All filters block light to some degree. That's how they work. ISO 400 film down 2 stops gives me 100 equiv, A polorizer blocks 2 stops.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Ahh </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Thanks anyways~</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James G. Dainis Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 CP = circular polarizer (filter). James G. Dainis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_shearman1 Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>In a day when film photography is struggling to stay alive, I would regard Lomography-brand film as a no-name crapshoot that diverts badly needed sales away from Kodak and Fuji. IMHO, if you want to shoot film, stick with the established name brands that are pretty much guaranteed to give good results. Lomography has built its oddball reputation around bad results that somehow look "cool" to some people in a way that contradicts most of the tradtional standards of good photography.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_watson1 Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 Craig gets it. Lomography was a lame attempt to brand film photography that thankfully died once the hipsters it attracted moved on to the next shiny object. If you want film tomorrow, buy fresh film today. Simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Thanks for the detailed answers guys haha :) Yea I always thought lomography was kinda lame</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 <p>Ah one more question. So I took two shots with my new roll as to make sure the film is in place. so does it mean that I have 34 left, or 36? Thanks</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 <p>With no new Fujicolor 100 (or Superia 100) as well as Reala (also ISO 100) the only ISO 100 I'd use is Kodak's Ektar 100. If you want less saturation consider Kodak's Portra 160. It is very fine-grained and you can increase saturation in post-processing if desired. For Fuji I like the Superia 200 as I can get it at the local Wally World in a 4 pack.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walter_degroot Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 <p>I would tend to ue the real fujifilm.<br> I READ-POSSIBLY HERE-<br> THAT SOME THIRD PARTY FILM MIGHT BE REALLY kODAK OR fUJI.<br> i HEARD THAT SOME THIRD PARTY FILMS WERE AN OLDER VERSION STILL MADE BY FUJI.<br> POSSIBLY STORED BY FUJI ONDER OPTIMASL CONDITIONS<br> SO IT MAY BE PERFECTLY FINE FILM.</p> <p>i KNOW THAT PHOTOWAREHOUSE ( UNTRAFINEONLINE)<br> STILL HAD SOME kONICA AND AGFA COLOR FILM.'<br> iSERIOUSLY DOUBT THAT SUCH FILM IS OUT OF DATE'POSSIBLY COLD STORED IN BULK.</p> <p>uNLESS FILM HAS BEEN ABUSED <br> IT SHOULD ME OK.<br> i HAD A 22 YEAR OLD ROLL OF KODACOLOR 400. NEVER CAREFULLY STORED AND IT WAS FINE.<br> i WOULD WORRY MORE ABOUT THE QUALITY OF THE PROCESING</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin_ng1 Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 <p>Thanks guys~~ </p> <p>Stupid question but how do I know if I used the whole film? The knob won't let me turn after I've used the whole roll right? :)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 <p>Usually the knob won't turn, partway through winding to the next frame.</p> <p>I am not sure that is true of all cameras, though.</p> <p>Normally you shoot two to get to the first real frame, and then most often get 38 more. The last one might get cut off in processing, or otherwise not work. Don't count on it. </p> <p><br />For slides, there is normally no cost to an extra frame. </p> <p>If you get prints, they will charge for each print, so it is better not to go so far, such that they will print a frame that isn't quite right.</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 <p>But Lomography has a 110 film, which most others don't.</p> <p>If you happen to want 110 film.</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 <p>It seems that my Mercury II doesn't stop winding at the end. Until the end, it advances the film properly, but at the end, all exposures are on the same part of the film.</p> -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_collins7 Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 <p>I have a cheep point and shoot that does better with 100 speed film. It tends to overexpose the higher speeds.<br> Does anybody know where I can get 100 speed film in the US? other than the pricey Kodak Ektar?<br> I think I did read Kodak, and Fuji stopped sales of film slower than 200 in the US.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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