Shutter speed, aperture, ISO settings for studio setup

[paulsen_viking]

<p>Hi!</p>

<p>I need to know, what settings would be the best when shooting photos of single objects in studio with 3 point lightning setup?<br>

I need best quality, so low ISO. I guess shutter speed matters with moving objects(I am a beginner), but here its not important, since the objects- products, cremes, apples, will be still.</p>

<p>ISO?<br>

Shutter speed?<br>

Aperture?</p>

<p>Thank you!</p>

[kim_johnson1]

You didnt mention what lighting youre using. All else could depend on that, and vice versa.

[Matt Laur]

<p>Right. Continuous lighting, or flash? Is the camera on a sturdy, solid tripod - or hand-held? Which format of camera, and what focal length on the lens? With some more information, it's easier to respond in a more constructive way.</p>

[paulsen_viking]

<p>Thank you for your reply.<br>

I dont know the lights yet but first guess is strong artificial lights (without sunlight) or something that is perhaps considered as standard if there is such a thing. I am still doing research.<br>

Key light: fill light ratio = 2:1 or 3:1<br>

If you can give me practical example of light (key light, fill light, backlight) watt values with Iso, shutter speed, aperture that would help a lot.</p>

 

[kim_johnson1]

You should decide and commit on your lighting source first (and use of a tripod as mentioned). Your camera settings

would be different for continous lighting vs strobes and handheld vs nonhandheld.

[SCL]

<p>You didn't mention the size of the objects, whether you want the whole object in focus or only the front, nor did you mention the focal length of the lens you will be using. If your objects have depth and you want them entirely in focus, you'll probably want to go to about f/11. Focal length plays a role here because longer focal length lenses usually have a shallower depth of field, so need to be closed down more to get the whole thing in focus. For an object about the size of a 35mm camera, but larger than a small setscrew, I often use the lowest ISO, f/8, and if continuous light, just set things in AP mode; if flash, I set mine to bounce (non ttl) about between f/8-11 depending on the reflectance of the subject and the surface it is bouncing off. I assume you're using digital rather than film, so take advantage of the tips here and experiment a little on your own, it costs you nothing but a little time and you'll learn something about the nuances of your setup.</p>

[paulsen_viking]

<p>I would mount the digital camera on a tripod. <br>

The size of the object: apple, bottle, spray <br>

The important thing is that this object is in focus, background content is not important, clean gray -white.<br>

Experimental examples:<br>

1. An Apple with some water drops without any environment, except reflections from key, fill light. <br>

2. Spray bottle,...<br>

I am still doing research and learning, so practical examples like when @Stephen Lewis said that he often uses f/8 with minimal ISO are great, helpful and I understand theory more clearly. I would like to know which focal lenght and lens would be most appropriate for the job. <br>

I thought that aperture number should be lower in that setting, but now I see I was mistaken.<br>

If I understand correctly I will get a lot of light so I do not need low aperture f and since the object is still and the camera mounted I can afford slower shutter speed.</p>

<p> </p>

[SCL]

<p>Use whatever lens you have....you will quickly learn whether it is sufficient for your needs or not. Most kits come with a zoom these days - 28-80mm or so. This is a great range to experiment with. I rarely use longer than 135mm and sometimes drop as low as 35mm, depending on what I want to portray.</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>To answer directly to your question is easy but may not help you.<br>

1. ISO set the camera at base ISO<br>

2. Varying the shutter speed, taking test shots, view them on your calibrated computer, until you have good exposure.<br>

3. Set your aperture first before step 2. Varying aperture, taking test shots, until you have just the right amount of DOF. Then go one to set the shutter speed to get your correct exposure.<br>

However, your success would depend more on how you arrange your lights and your use of light modifiers.</p>

[James G. Dainis]

Put the camera on a tripod. Set the ISO to the lowest (100 ISO?) Set the camera to aperture priority and set to f/8. Take the picture. The camera will choose the right shutter speed for the correct exposure.

 

That is for objects of average values. If you are trying to take a photo of a white teacup on a white saucer on a white background then you will get a photo that is about 3 stops underexposed, the whole thing will look gray.

 

To determine the correct exposure for the lighting you are using you can get a gray card. Place the gray card in place of the object to be photographed. Put the camera on a tripod. Set the ISO to the lowest (100 ISO?) Set the camera to aperture priority and set to f/8. Fill the frame with a view of the gray card. See what shutter speed is indicated. Now set the camera to manual and the aperture to f/8 and the shutter speed that which was indicated off of the gray card.

 

If you want to change dept of field by using different apertures then you will again take a reading off the gray card to see what shutter speed to use with different apertures.

[Tony Parsons]

<p>Since you're using digital, I would suggest, unless you have a tight time schedule, that you shoot test shots at all shutter speed / aperture combinations that you can, then study them closely (on a computer, not just the camera screen) and see which suits your purposes best, then check the EXIF data and use those values for the actual shoot.<br>

Should you not have time to do this, then shoot at all shutter speed / aperture combinations that you can in the actual shoot, then select the best for post-processing afterwards. That way, you should have a selection of images that are at least presentable.<br>

Tony</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>One of the advantages of digital is that one has instant feedback on what you have done so try a setting ... if it is too dark give more exposure and vice versa if it is burnt out. I frequently work this way as it is so easy. and costs just time.<br>

As Tony said before I read his post . The other angle is trusting the camera to know more than you [we] do so check what it suggests and then vary slightly from that if needed.</p>

[rick_jack1]

Hi,

All the replies are correct. Here is my two cents:

 

Buy a book on lighting. Or go to a library, the shelves are probably full because no one looks there anymore.

 

Start with your lowest ISO. Since your probably using digital take test photos with one light at a time paying attention to

your shadows. I shot fully in manual so I can't advise you with TTL.

 

If you plan on doing a lot of studio shooting invest in a flash meter.

 

Depending upon your subject, a model or a product that will determine your f-stop depending upon the DOF you desire.

Adjust your flash power or change distance to get the desired exposure.

 

Experience is the best teacher. Write it all down with diagrams of where your placing the lights.

 

Good luck

[Gary Naka]

<p>As most everyone has said, you need to start shooting and experimenting with different setups.<br>

I second the advice to get a book on lighting. There are some good ones out there that are worth studying. Then use those books as a guide to experiment with. That will be how you will learn.</p>

<p>There is no "standard light." There are a LOT of DIFFERENT lights of different types; continuous incandescent, continuous flourescent, flashes of many different types (shoe flash to studio pack flash), sunlight from a window, etc. etc. The closest to any kind of 'standard light' is sun light, outdoors or via a window.<br />One thing to keep in mind, incandescent continuous lights are called 'hot lights' for a reason. They are HOT and will heat up the subject as well. That I why I do not like to use them. I will use either small shoe flashes or a pack flash, depending on how much light I need.</p>

<p>As Tony said, try a whole lot of different combinations, because sometime the one that gives you the best result may not be what you may have originally thought to use. And document everything, to the degree that you can look at your notes and recreate the setup. And include notes on why you did certain things. Because in 6 months, you will not remember the details of the setup and why you did certain things. If that happens, you end up starting all over again.</p>

<p>gud luk</p>