Hyper focal Distance

[naval_kishore]

<p>Hello Friends,<br>

I’m an armature landscape photographer.<br>

I’m using a cropped sensor camera Canon D600 T3I and it doesn’t have a distance ring on the lens.<br>

Would someone be able to able to help me with the following?<br>

1- I have a application on my windows phone “Photo Caddie” to calculate the Hyper focal distance for a given F number , Focal length and Subject Distance. I’m not able to make out how to determine the subject distance when I’m shooting landscape and when my primary subject is a mountain on the horizon and the foreground has a river flowing down the mountain.<br>

2- After entering all the aforesaid details into the application I get the hyper focal distance but I’m not sure how to focus at that distance (say 3.91 feet) since I do not have a distance ring on my lens.<br>

My camera has 9 auto focus points, should I select just one and try to focus on something that is roughly at the same distance (say 4 feet).<br>

Thanks </p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>After entering all the aforesaid details into the application I get the hyper focal distance but <strong>I’m not sure how to focus at that distance (say 3.91 feet)</strong> since I do not have a distance ring on my lens.<br /> My camera has 9 auto focus points, <strong>should I select just one and try to focus on something that is roughly at the same distance (say 4 feet).</strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, that is an appropriate technique to achieve Focus at the Hyperfocal Distance. Select the MIDDLE AF POINT and FOCUS at something 4ft from the Camera and then <strong>LOCK FOCUS</strong> and then <strong>RECOMPOSE</strong> the SHOT.</p>

<p>That stated, I suggest that you <strong>have a reason</strong> to use the Hyperfocal Distance for the Focus Point.</p>

<p>For many Landscape Scenes, focusing near or at infinity is often the more practical/useful solution: for example IF you focus a 4ft, the distant mountains are NOT going to be as sharp as if you focused near or at infinity – and one will often notice the softness of focus in the final image.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[James G. Dainis]

Using the hyperfocal distance everything will be in <I>acceptable</I> focus from 3.91 feet to infinity. That does not mean everything will be equally sharp from 3.91 feet to infinity.

[bebu_lamar]

<p>Yes and if there is nothing at 3.91ft but all of your subjects are further away why make this distance the sharpest?</p>

[frode]

<blockquote>

<p>My camera has 9 auto focus points, <strong>should I select just one and try to focus on something that is roughly at the same distance (say 4 feet).</strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes. This is correct.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Using the hyperfocal distance everything will be in <em>acceptable</em> focus from 3.91 feet to infinity.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A tiny correction: The "acceptable focus" (depth of field) will go from <em>half</em> the hyperfocal distance to infinity, i.e. from <em>1.96</em> feet to infinity in this case.</p>

 

[DavidTriplett]

<p>Naval, I played with a similar app and discovered it is only really useful when I am trying to obtain focus on something in the very near foreground while simultaneously keeping the an acceptable focus on infinity (far background). Otherwise, trying to use hyperfocal distance just made things needlessly complicated. I find myself most concerned with hyperfocal when using a long focal length lens in diim light, so I know the focus dynamics of very hard to read scenes. Easiest technique without a "distance ring" is to choose an object as your focus point that is clearly beyond the hyperfocal distance. This will always give you the infinity focus you are seeking. I use a powerful flashlight at night to pick out focus points that I cannot otherwise see, particularly with my cheap lenses. Frode's point is also correct. </p>

[glen_h]

<p>The case that happens more often to me is a group of people in front of a scenic background, where you want both in focus. </p>

<p>With usual digital cameras, you can set the ISO high enough, get a nice small aperture, and not worry about it, even if focus is on the people. If it isn't so bright, you might want to do something else.</p>

<p>The appropriate focus position of the lens is the one that is half way in rotation between the near and far distance you want in focus. That works, even if you don't have a scale on the lens, as long as you have a focus ring to turn. Most often the far distance is at infinity. (After you turn off the autofocus.)</p>

<p>As above, most of the time you don't need to be all that close, but find a focus point in between the two parts of the subject that you want to be in focus.</p>

<p>Also, don't forget to turn autofocus back on, before you get surprised on later pictures when you thought it was on.</p>