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Consistent fine scratches in emulsion


nick_sandin

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Hello again everyone,

 

I am about 2 months in to my first foray in to the world of developing film myself. I have had a lot of success and good results so far, but I

seem to have a continual issue with a handful of frames on every roll having small scratches in the emulsion. The scratches are irregular

and not straight across, they are often in an arc or slanted line taking up about half the width of th 35mm frame. I have this issue with all

my camera bodies (Nikon F4, FE, and FE2). I don't use a squeegee or any other mechanical means of removing water from the film. I am

always very careful in my handling of the film and loading it on to the reels (I use a Paterson super system 4 tank). What else could be

causing this? Is it just a fact of life when shooting roll film?

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<p>Sounds like pressure marks from the film being bent too much. This occurs in 120 more easily than 135.<br>

Posting a picture of the negative(s) will make diagnosing the problem easier. Holding the negatives a few inches from a well lit white wall and snapping a cell phone photo should be fine.</p>

<p>Scratches and or pressure marks are not a fact of life when shooting roll film. Scratches are due to equipment or handling and pressure marks are due to handling before processing.</p>

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<p>Looks like you are pulling the film out of the cassette as you load it. As long as you pull it out the center of the felt opening the risk of scratches are minimal but pulling the film out with it snug to tight against one side of the felt opening increases the risk of scratches. The best way is to remove the end cap with a bottle opener then remove the spool and film with the film tight on the spool.<br>

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Chef-Craft-Bottle-Opener-Tapper/dp/B00440D3EC/ref=zg_bs_3109475011_9<br>

Use the flat end.</p>

<p>Also I noticed a lot of white specs in you images. This can be caused by reusing fixer without running it through a filer such as a coffee filter between uses. Dust can also cause this. To minimize dust during drying hang the film in a shower after running hot water to steam the shower or make a tent from plastic bags that cover the top of the drying area. 8 to 10 inches either side of the drying line should be sufficient for a 135-36 roll of film hanging on a line to prevent dust from above settling on the film. Keep traffic and breezes to a minimum in the drying area.</p>

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<p>My own view is that you are getting dust and fine grit in the camera when you load the film.<br>

<br />As for removing the film from the cassette for processing, I have, for the past 20 years, pulled the film out through the light-trap of the cassette with never a scratch. I started doing this after discussing the issue with the late Barry Thornton. Prior to that I used to open the cassette by ripping the end off. </p>

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the responses everyone. I have pretty much determined that it must be very fine particulates between the

camera film guides and the emulsion, I have taken to blowing out my cameras every time I load film, which seems to have

minimized the issue.

 

Also FYI I have always opened the film canisters to remove the film, I don't pull it through the felt.

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  • 1 month later...
<p>The lines aren't straight, so I don't think it's just a simple mechanical "dragging the film along a sharp something" problem. Might it happen while you are loading the film onto the reels? Like with a ring, watch, that sort of thing? And is it for the whole length of the roll or just a few frames near the end(s)?</p>
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