Add LegacyPro wetting agent to Rodinal developer

[MTC Photography]

<p>Has any one tried adding a few drops of LegacyPro wetting agent 200 to 1+100 dilution Rodinal develop to elimiate airbells on film ?</p>

<p>Or its it better to pre wet film strip with diluted wetting agent , before development with Rodinal ? </p>

[Mike Gammill]

I've always rapped the tank sharply on the counter a few times after filling it with developer to dislodge potential airbells. Never had a problem.

[larrydressler]

<p>Same as Mike . even with Stand development you have to give it 30 seconds to one minute initial agitation at the beginning. I do that bang it and all is fine.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>I pre-soak, giving 6 inversions of the tank and then a few sharps raps on the tank to dislodge air-bells. Let it stand for 1 minute then invert again, then let it stand another minute, then pour out the water and pour in the dev.</p>

[trooper]

<p>Many (many!!) years ago when first learning darkroom techniques, I had a respected photographer suggest a single drop of wetting agent in the pre-soak water. I function with eye dropper bottles that my Agfa Agepon gets transferred to (only used because of a lifetime supply from an old Porters' grab bag!). It became a habit that continues and can't say it's the reason but a sharp rap and this pre-soak practice has had me air bell free for 50 years. I would develop a habit of consistency, even in this step as some developers are said to vary in performance based on emulsion softening, which can be affected in the pre-soak. Part of why I continue to pre-soak is that my darkroom tends to be colder than ideal (year-round) and this aids in tempering my gear through the whole process.</p>

[MTC Photography]

<p>My developing tank is made of bakelite, hence knock it on bench may crack it. Hand knock does not<br>

delodge the air bubbles, hence I shall try presoak with one or two drops of wetting agent in a tank of water</p>

 

[Fotohuis RoVo]

<p>A pre-soak is normally not advised either by Ilford, Kodak, Fuji or Foma. A wetting agent will cause foam building and probably you will have more problems in development then using without.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>That was my thought too Robert.</p>

[Fotohuis RoVo]

A pre-soak has advantages when using a deep layer ultra fine grain developer or when developing on a higher

temperature, 24C or for color 100F/37,8C.

Normally in a Jobo rotary processor and not all developers are suitable for this type of development.

[glen_h]

<p>I seem to remember that Kodak does NOT recommend adding Photo-Flo to developers, though I don't know that I ever knew why. Note that wetting agents are good for creating bubbles, as you will see when you take the reel out after Photo-Flo treatment.</p>

<p>I usually use Diafine for film, and was taught to rap the tank after agitating by my grandfather, who also told me about Diafine almost 50 years ago. I also inherited his Nikor tank. I don't know that I ever had problems with bubbles. Sometimes I hit the tank with my hand, not quite as hard as the counter.</p>

<p>The plastic tanks that I have use a rotating agitation system, which probably doesn't pull as much air in.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Bakelite is only as tough as the bottom. Bang it on a towel. I still have some Lasagna bake lights.</p>

[wblynch]

<p>I would be hesitant to introduce any substance that could act as a sealer on the emulsion, locking out the developer chemicals.</p>