Kodak Plus-X pan

[kevin_berlanga]

<p>Is it possible for me to get Kodak Plus-X pan, Kodak High Speed Tungsten Ektachrome, and an Ilford HP5 roll, developed at a Walgreens or CVS? <br />Thanks!</p><div></div>

[henry_finley1]

<p>no</p>

[wblynch]

Possibly through their send out service. But their prices are high, not like the good old days, and you had better be very

careful because they won't return your negatives - which is the whole point of film.

 

Better to forget about those outlets and use a reputable lab.

 

Best yet, learn how to do it yourself and be free, man, free!

[glen_h]

<p>As far as I know, the send-out no negatives system is for C-41. </p>

<p>There should be enough labs around that still do black and white film, usually pro quality labs. Drug store labs have done it for much more than the price for C41 for years. Close enough to pro lab prices.</p>

<p>Last I knew, High Speed Ektachrome is E4, which will make finding a lab much harder. If it hasn't been kept cold, at least down to refrigerator temperature, it likely isn't good now anyway. </p>

<p>If kept at non-tropical room temperature, the Plus-X is likely good enough to use. I presume from the picture that they haven't been exposed yet.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Did you ask Walgreens before you asked us? Other than that Where do you live in the U.S.? That will help us find you a lab.</p>

[kevin_berlanga]

<p>Nope, I haven't asked Walgreens yet. I live in Brownsville, Texas now, but I'll be moving to NYC in the fall for college. </p>

[henryp]

<p>Walgreens or CVS can process <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Film+Type_B%26W+Chromogenic+%28C-41%29&ci=2545&N=4093113317+4130468180">chromogenic b&w films</a>, but not the ones you mentioned.</p>

<p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>What's the expiration date on these? Plus X was discontinued in 2011, and these boxes look like they might go back before that. If the Ilford is plain HP5 as opposed to HP5-Plus, it's also probably 10 years old or older. The Ektachrome will say somewhere on the box either "Process E-4" or "Process E-6." If it's E-4 it was toast before you were born (assuming you're just starting college) so either toss it or sit in on a shelf as a knickknack. <br /><br />B&W can last pretty long after its expiration date. But if it's more than about five years old and you're just starting with B&W I would probably toss these rolls rather shoot them, get bad results and not know whether the problem is the film, the camera or you.<br /><br />If you do want to use them, take them to New York with you. There are plenty of labs there that can develop the film for you. (Be sure to carry them in your carry on luggage on the plane. They will be destrobyed by x-ray if you put them in checked luggage.)<br /><br />If you really want to shoot B&W, you really need to learn to develop film yourself. The days of good quality, low-price B&W developing are long gone. There are cheap places that do a crappy job and there are good places that charge a lot but not much in between Be aware that in B&W you normally get the negatives developed and a contact sheet made from them, not 4x6 prints. You look at the contact sheet (the film is cut into strips of six negatives, placed in contact with a sheet of 8x10 paper, and each image is 1x1.5 inches the same as the actual negative) and then decide which to enlarge. If a lab is offering 4x6 prints from every shot on the roll, that's usually a good tipoff that they are not a professional lab.<br /><br />Developing B&W is easy. I learned when I was 12 and was working part-time in a newspaper lab before I went to college. If I can do it anybody can do it.<br /><br /></p>

[garethspics]

<p>I agree with Craig. Learning to develop B&W is not hard and very rewarding. It's basically like cooking, the longer you leave in the developer it the blacker it gets. Get it too hot, and you've guessed it, the blacker it gets.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Start with black & white negative developing first. If you have a scanner with a negative holder you can start with that. Later, as you perfect your developing technique you can get a better scanner, or for the full experience, get an enlarger and make your own prints. </p>