I wanna learn how to correct the scanned film.

[benjamin_kim1]

<p>I usually use Hasselblad X5 for scanning and do retouch with photoshop. But problem is that I can not get the right color at all. If I correct the color of skin tones, the background color become magenta or else. Correcting yellowish scanned film is fine and easy but any other colors are really difficult and I have no idea how to do it. I tried to search for film color correcting in google but found nothing. Pro labs are great with color correcting but they NEVER told me how to do it. I asked some questions in here but nothing helped me at all. </p>

<p>I really seek the information of how to correct the scanned film. I can not just try to discover how to do cause it takes too much times. </p>

<p>Please tell me what to do and how to do.</p>

[SCL]

<p>I've had best success by incorporating something pure white in my photos and then using color levels eyedropper on the white, the colors usually come out pretty close to what I am looking for.</p>

[maarten_kleinhout]

<p>Hi<br>

I have been on this journey and ended up with "<a href="http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html">ColorPerfect - CF Systems"</a><br>

You can explore the options via the trial version - plenty of HTML guidance <br /><br>

<cite ><a href="http://www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html">www.c-f-systems.com/Plug-ins.html</a></cite></p>

 

The <em><strong>ColorPerfect</strong></em> Photoshop/Photoline plug-in is available for both PC and Mac in both 64-bit and 32-bit versions.<br />

 

I have had great success

 

<p>good luck</p>

[AlanKlein]

<p>Try scanning flat and adjust black and white points first. (Levels). That usually gets the colors right within 90%. I use an Epson V600 not a Hasselblad but my technique might help. Let us know how it works out. </p>

[randrew1]

<p>If you are scanning new slides and sticking to one or two types of film, then it is definitely worth calibrating your system for the film that you use. The responses so far offer different ways to accomplish this.</p>

<p>If you are scanning a variety of old slides (as I am), it is difficult to calibrate your system for products that no longer exist. I found the following process effective for many different slides and negatives.</p>

<ul>

<li>If you have a pre-scan mode use it to adjust exposure and cropping. </li>

<li>After scanning, I use the curves tool in Photoshop to adjust the red. green, and blue channels independently. </li>

<li>For each color channel, set the "white" and "black" points on the input (horizontal) scale to match the right and left edges of the histogram for that color. </li>

<li>If there is a good gray spot in the image use the "gray" eyedropper to click on it to adjust color balance. </li>

<li>If there is no good gray spot, then adjust the center point of the curve for the relevant channel to get the color balance right. </li>

</ul>

[hjoseph7]

<p>Have you tried the SilverFast SE software ? It has some pretty good easy-to-use color correcting tools before going into Photoshop. No I don't work for Silverfast.</p>

[danielheller]

<p>The one thing I can advise you, before you perform all the nice things mentioned so far above, is to scan all of your material as "Linear Scans". You have to pick certain parameters in Flexcolor before scanning to achieve a "Linear Scan". You can read on the internet how to do that. Than, and only than you start your spotting, cropping, color correction, exposure...etc. This is the most accurate method of achieving a scan that is closest to reality in terms of colors at the moment you took the shot.</p>

[ivo_ivo]

<p>Sorry for the bad news, but you must learn to use your scanning software to extract the best from your negatives/slides. A bad scan corrected later in Photoshop is not the same as an optimised via the scanning software pre-scan; one can never get the same results in PS because a bad scan and a good scan do not contain the same data in the first place.<br>

<br />Each scanner brand utilize different software, and I as a Konica Minolta user can't give you a step by step tutorial, I believe only an experienced Imacon user can provide that.<br>

<br />And last but hardly the least, usually the native scanner software gives the best results - I know that from my own experience with KM; I've heard the same from several Nikon scanner users; and I have little doubt that a company of the stature of Hasselblad with a mythic scanner like <em>Flextight</em> did bundle the thing with an equally impressive and mighty software. Third party software, which is often buggy and/or badly work with the different scanners (not to mention rare exotica like yours) won't solve your problems. The best advice I can give you is, invest a little time and patience, and learn to operate the scanner native software.</p>

[harry_hoag]

<p>Hiya, learning your scanner software is a good idea, I'm sure whatever Hasselblad make is excellent. However, I use a pretty cheap epson flatbed slide scanner, and I don't trust anything automatic happening on the scanning side. I bring raw 16bit scans straight into photoshop and do all the colour correction in there manually, you have much more control. From that I get great results.<br /><br />Rory Clague just wrote a great post about colour correcting negatives in DxO here (all applicable to photoshop):<br /><a href="/film-and-processing-forum/00d8yZ?start=30">http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00d8yZ?start=30</a><br /><br />And this is a good place to start with photoshop film colour correction:<br /><a href="http://photoblogstop.com/photoshop/accurate-white-balance-adjustments-in-photoshop">http://photoblogstop.com/photoshop/accurate-white-balance-adjustments-in-photoshop</a></p>

[wblynch]

<p>I use Photoshop CS-5. First I try "Auto Tone" or "Auto Color" and if that isn't pleasing I have to do it manually.</p>

<p>Manually, I have my best results correcting color using the Levels control and selecting each color channel individually. </p>

<p>Typically I set the low point and high point just before the histogram rises on each end, then fine tune the mid range color by eye.</p>

<p>I used to be a piano tuner so am used to "zeroing in" on the correct pitch. The color balance is like that, I need to go back and forth on the middle to zero in on the right color.</p>

<p>It seems the channel most often off is the green channel and it's usually too far magenta. I think that's because I have more Fuji negatives than Kodak.</p>