Nikon FE2 Lightmeter Issue

[james_noel4]

<p>I have an FE2 that appears to work perfectly except that the lghtmeter consistently reads about 1/2 to 2/3 of a stop slow. I've compared it to my F3 , F100 and phone lightmeter. All match except the FE2. I've cleaned the mirror and focusing screen along With the prism glass I can reach but to no avail. Meter responds well to light, aperture change and compensation change. Obviously it needs to go to a tech. My question is do you think this is a relatively easy fix or not? I am asking as I have an FA in the Que for a CLA and am debating fixing the FE2 instead. Or should I just get the FA up to spec and live with the FE2 as is because it is a constant correctable shift? I've wondered a bit into the philosophical..FA vs. FE2 but opinions on that would be appreciated as well as I can't decide? Ultimately I will fix the FE2 if it doesn't cost much more than another good used one. Question is do I bother fixing the FE2 and if so which one do I fix first?</p>

[richard_driscoll]

<p>Mine is similar; it overexposes by about 2/3 EV IIRC. I looked into adjusting it myself but failed to find any repair instructions online, though I did find some info. about the FE.<br>

Having said that, with digital I've not used it for several years and the foam seals need replacing now as well.<br>

If it really is a uniform error I'd be inclined to put up with it.</p>

[robert_bowring]

<p>If you feel that your other cameras are accurate just adjust the ASA/ISO on the FE to match the exposure readings of the other cameras. 1/2 stop is not that much of a difference.</p>

[james_noel4]

<p>Thank you for the reply. So far it appears quite repeatable so it would seem I could correct for it. Just wondering if it's worth fixing or if I should just punt and get another. It otherwise seems in great shape and any of these are going to require a CLA which is why I've not just moved onto another one already. Plus I can't decide between the FA and FE2 ;)</p>

[robert_bowring]

<p>If it is not broke don't fix it. As long as it is consistent and repeatable it will work fine.</p>

[SCL]

<p>Can't decide between the two for a CLA, when neither seems desperate for it? I can appreciate the conundrum. My suggestion is to have the one you use most often CLA'd first and get around to the other at a later date.</p>

[james_noel4]

<p>Yes, I have too many "manual" SLR's :)<br>

No, neither was desperate but the FA light seals seemed in worse shape plus I figured it was the most different from the F3 so it went first. Plus I really like the added grip on the FA. Still, the damn FE2 is so nice and simple I can't stop using it. I had originally planned to sell it after getting the F3 but can't do it.</p>

[henryp]

<blockquote>

<p>As long as it is consistent and repeatable</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Amen. Accuracy in a meter is a chimera, but reliability is a blessing. That's what you have. I'd leave it.You can use the +/- setting on the same dial as the ISO setting (right side on top) to dial in the necessary adjustment.<br>

YMMV</p>

<p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>"I've cleaned the mirror......" - Aaaaaargh! Not with anything more abrasive than a soft brush I hope.</p>

<p>+1 to just using the exposure compensation dial to bring the FE2 meter into line with everything else. The camera's worth what? $80 max? It's neither worth spending much time nor money on it really.</p>

[paul_wheatland]

<p>Read up on the internet about reliability issues with the Nikon FA and you may relegate the FA to shelf status. The seals are user replaceable on both cameras. The FE2 Nikon may be the more reliable of the two.</p>

[stephen_smith18]

<p>It depends on the type of film you plan to shoot. Negative - FE2, Slides - FA, the early matrix meter in the FA is nice for slides. I have both and am in the same dilemma. Don't want to part with either so I assign each a different type of film as an excuse.</p>

[james_noel4]

<p>what a brilliant idea...<br>

So my F100 is for autofocus to take shots of my kids<br>

The FA will be for landscape slides<br>

FE2 for B&W negatives<br>

F3 for well just because I love it.<br>

Hmmm...what else do I need maybe an FM3A for sunny days?<br>

Or do I need an FM2 for cloudy days then as well...</p>

<p>But seriously thanks for the tips on the film types. I will give that a shot. Was just informed my<br>

FA is in final inspection so I should have it back shortly. Will use the FE2 for a while just compensating for the 2/3 stop and see how it goes.</p>

[hjoseph7]

<p>I had mine fixed but it cost more than the camera. Actually it was not just the light meter but I also had a some type of leak where the battery would drain very quickly. Since everything else on the camera was pretty close to Mint condition and for sentimental reasons, I decided to pay for the repairs. The CLA alone was about $90 and the total bill came up to about $175 or maybe a little bit more due to the shipping if I remember correctly. I figured it was well worth it, rather than have to constantly look over my shoulder, I had piece of mind.</p>

[Rob F.]

<p>Here's my story. I bought two FE2s together in the late 1980's. For years, I never thought there was anything wrong with the metering. And for years, the color film I shot was Velvia 50. I knew that many photographers felt that Velvia 50 should be shot at 40 or 32. An avid and skilled photographer I knew always shot it at 32. My exposures were fine!</p>

<p>Later, I bought an FA and an F3; then an FM3a. Funny, they indicated less exposure than my FE2s. They also gave perfect exposures. Obviously, something was wrong. Maybe my FE2s were haunted?</p>

<p>I had the dealer send in my FE2s to Nikon, with a note explaining the concern. They came back with a perfect bill of health. That's when the light came on. I had been shooting Velvia 100 and Provia in the newer cameras. Velvia 100 and Provia 100 really are ISO 100 films. Velvia 50 really isn't 50. Yes, the FE2 exposes more heavily than my other Nikons, and my Leicas.</p>

<p>Just set your EI a little higher, like everyone said. I don't think there is anything wrong with your FE2. FE2s just overexpose, that's all.</p>

[astral]

<p>FE2 and FM2n (as well as other Nikons) have interchangeable screens, some of which <em>may</em> require adjustment to the meter setting or EV compensation (etc). Check this website: <a href="http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm">http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm</a></p>