What light on the market will allow me to use wide aperture and a large softbox? Recreating natural light situation in studio

[mood_lover]

<p>I've been trying to find the perfect light that can allow me to use an aperture of f/2.8 or even wider in my portraits. I previously used a Spiderlite TD6 "1200W" continuous light but it fell over and all 6 of the bulbs shattered, so I don't think I want to go that route ever again. The only bright side of that light is that it stays cool enough to not burn the softbox. Which is 4x6', so quite large and it has to evenly fill it corner to corner.</p>

<p>What I want to recreate: http://41.media.tumblr.com/163ae7573c5aa5d97aeae50bfb1471c4/tumblr_nhz579IfHm1qzawmno1_r3_1280.jpg<br /> 1/160, F/1.8, ISO 100</p>

<p>I wish a flash existed that I could use an ND filter with but if it darkens the viewfinder too much then I'm guessing it's not practical. Also can't move the light back since my studio doesn't have to space to and it would also change my light quality. Any ideas on what I'm looking for exists without paying $1000 per light?</p>

<p>- I've read a thread where an Alienbee B800 owner said at the lowest power it still spits out too much light for f/2.8 + ISO100.<br /> - The White Lightning X1600 apparently has 1/4 power output mode which can shoot at 1/128 (though I'm still not sure if this is low enough). However, it has a 250W modeling light (I'm wondering if this is enough though I'm not experienced enough to say so).</p>

[bebu_lamar]

<p>It should be easy to cut down the light. Pick your soft box and dial the power way down. And then if it's still too bright stack some polarizing sheets.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>First you should buy and read "Light Science & Magic" to learn how to control light in your studio, no matter how small. And how you can make small light sources larger by bouncing and by using diffusion.<br>

The exposure values you have chosen require more light than a fluorescent light source is going to provide. I suggest that the AB 1600 strobe will provide enough light, and enough control range that you can achieve these settings. Don't worry about the modeling lamp it will not affect the exposure and will help you visualize the light and shadows.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>- I've read a thread where an Alienbee B800 owner said at the lowest power it still spits out too much light for f/2.8 + ISO100.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>If the light source is too close to the subject then any strobe may be too bright. The answer then is to use ND Gel on the light sources, not the camera lens. That way you can see to focus.<br>

<br /><br /></p>

[brian yarvin]

<p>I'm a big White Lightning fan and I think that on the lowest power settings, you'll get exactly what you want. The lowest powered version is the x800. The best part is that you can set the power of the flash and modeling light independently. So ... an easy to see modeling light and and tiny pop of flash.<br>

<br />You can go lower by putting an ND gel in front of the strobe head and behind the bank.</p>

<p>Best of luck.</p>

[mood_lover]

<p>@BeBu: polarizing sheets? Are those like ND gels that I wrap around the bulb itself to kill the light a couple stops? Where can I find this? Google isn't helping much.<br /> @Charles: I like that idea of buying a B800 or B1600 and ND geling the bulb. That must be an uncommon practice, would the bulb burn the gel at all, and would it affect white balance a lot? Also do you know where I can get that?<br /> @Brian: Seems like all are pointing to the same idea. Is this what I need to get?<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/163141-REG/Rosco_102302102124_E_Colour_210_6_Neutral.html</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>You put on the ND filter on your lens after you compose and focus your shot</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>At those wide open apertures why are you even using strobes? If you must use a strobe then use a speed light and put it in the soft box and you will definitely get 2.8 and wider apertures</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>the perfect light is Gods light called ambient</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>I thought we told you in the other forum to lower your ISO to get to 2.8?</p>

[michael_darnton2]

<p>If I were happy with the light I had previously, and it sounds like you are, I'd buy six more bulbs, and a sandbag for the stand. That's what I did not too long ago after I toppled and destroyed a strobe, and the weight down at the bottom is really doing the job.</p>

[mood_lover]

<p>@Michael: ND filter after composing and focusing a shot seems really inconvenient, since I have to keep taking it off everytime the model poses. Not a very fluid way to work imo, I'd rather ND the light if thats possible. At wide open apertures I'm interested in strobes well because there doesn't seem to be any continuous lights that are the same price, flexibility, and cool temperature that wont burn the softbox that I know of. Lowering your ISO to get f/2.8 doesn't solve the issue I believe since it's still too much power. And I wasnt happy with the TD6, it was a pain to transport (6 big boxes for each bulb), and the bulbs shatter too easily. $250 to replace them :/</p>

<p>About your gods light called ambient comment, if I could bring god into my windowless studio I would but that's not always easy.</p>

[sheldonnalos]

<p>Instead of a White Lightning, look at the Einstein which is a different product from the same manufacturer (Paul C Buff). The Einstein strobe is capable of going down to very low power settings, much lower than the Alien Bee or White Lightning.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>You can buy ND filter material in 1-, 2-, and 3-stop densities at any theatrical or movie lighting place and many places on the web, such as this one <br />http://www.stagespot.com/gel.html</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Lowering your ISO to get f/2.8 doesn't solve the issue I believe since it's still too much power.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Until you try a shot, you don't really know if it's too much power. Strobes are variable power, fluorescent lamps are not. Strobes are easy to turn down and gel down. <br>

If you can't afford to buy strobes hoping it might work, how about renting some? </p>

<p> </p>

[michaelmowery]

i suggest u take a course in lighting. Lowering your ISO will be the first step in this process. find a strobe that powers down very low.

When that is still not enough you need to difuse the light even further. That means keep covering the light to make it dimmer so to speak.

When that is not enough move the light further away from your subject. Get the idea? Most professionals don't shoot studio strobes at

apertures of 2.8 or wider. At that point your better off using the modeling lights also known as available light. As far as ND filter on lens it

was a way to solve your problem with your existing lights. I never said it was going to be easy. You seem to have some money so go out

and buy a strobe that meets your requirements.

[Matt Laur]

<p>Indeed, the Einstein is able to operate at very, very low output, and can also deliver quite a wallup when you need it. Very good units.</p>

[mood_lover]

<p>@Charles: Ive been looking at those, how do you install that if I'm using a 4x6' softbox on my strobe? Also, I've read a bunch of times now that the AB800 at its lowest 1/32 power only allows f/4, but I need my aperture to be much wider than that.</p>

 

[Charles_Webster]

<blockquote>

<p>Also, I've read a bunch of times now that the AB800 at its lowest 1/32 power only allows f/4, but I need my aperture to be much wider than that.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I don't know where you heard that but I think you are being mis-lead by someone else's specific situation, which may or may not match yours.<br>

As for putting ND gel in a softbox, I do it all the time by clipping a piece of ND gel to the inner diffuser panel and then putting the front diffuser on.<br>

Worse case you simply tape the material in place over the face of the strobe.<br>

This problem has been solved lots of times before, you aren't the first person with lights too bright and not enough space to move them back.</p>

<p> </p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>Another solution is to ditch the softbox, bounce your strobes off a wall through a diffusion panel like a Scrim-Jim. That will get you the large diffuse light source you're looking for.<br>

Keep in mind that without throwing money at the problem, your space may be too small to achieve the kind of diffuse outdoor light you're looking for. You can't work miracles in a closet.</p>

 

[ellis_vener_photography]

A big softbox will not create that quality of light.

 

What might is working in a large studio space with at least two adjoining white walls meeting a white ceiling. Point the

light at the corner where the walls and ceiling meet, and then maybe hang a large scrim (like 6x6 foot) in front of it but it

may not be necessary to do that.

 

The light in the example you are posting is from indirect daylight - it's all diffuse light before it enters that photographer's

studio but it isn't totally diffuse as its coming from a source: It's indirect hard light. That is what you are trying to emulate:

bounced daylight.

 

Gregory Heisler's dd some beautiful portraits in the '90s where it looks like the subjects were lit by daylight. But what he

did was very simple. He put a single baretube head in the corner of a white walked studio. By turning the light towards or

away from the subject he created different qualities of light.

[ellis_vener_photography]

I forgot one other approach : flash into umbrella (white or silver) with a large diffusing scrim in front of the umbrella. This

gives a different look than using a softbox,

[michaelmowery]

<p>ND filter on the flash is the best solution and makes life easy. As far as a 4x6 soft box in such a tight area you will never control ratio. You are better off using a small soft box. Ellis recommends an excellent choice at half the cost of a soft box.</p>

[Tim_Lookingbill]

<p>Going by that linked image's EXIF exposure data (see below) there must've been quite a lot of natural indirect daylight to expose at 50mm, 1/640, f/1.8, ISO 400 on a full frame camera.</p>

<p>So it's hard to understand why the OP wants...1/160, F/1.8, ISO 100 using artificial light which he's indicated is too powerful. </p><div></div>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>The sample picture you showed can be shot with just about anything, from window light to an umbrella to a softbox. And it's going to look about the same regardless of apeture -- it doesn't have a background being dropped out of focus for fancy "bokeh" or super-shallow depth of field on the face. <br /><br />As others have said, if you're looking for low light output to end up at a wide aperture, just use a less powerful flash -- a speedlight in an umbrella or softbox will get you there easily. Or replace the CFLs in the unit you had. You probably don't even need all the bulbs.<br /><br />If you want to use a studio strobe and it doesn't dial its power down low enough, you can use sheets of toughspun or other diffusion material rather than ND gels. All are available from Rosco or Lee.</p>

[michaelmowery]

<p>The best answer is learn lighting and basic photography. Take a course or read a book and go out there and experiment. I love photography and I want to learn on my own instead of asking questions on a forum but that is just me. If you do ask then take the advice from those who give it and see what happens.</p>

[mood_lover]

<p>@Tim: the exposures are the same, 1/640, ISO400 = 1/160, ISO100, I just simplified it for the sake of simplifying down to ISO100 - what I was saying is that I want these exposures to be possible with artificial light at F/1.8 which is the challenge.</p>

<p>@Craig: thanks for the hope, I like hearing that this look can achieved with a softbox (I've seen many softbox photographers do it). I'll look into some Rosco ND gels!</p>