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mood_lover

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Everything posted by mood_lover

  1. mood_lover
    Thank you, this was an excellent response. I was just trying to protect the identity of a model. No one should have to go through an obstacle course to do that. Sandy let me know a way to get my images removed (they were actually hosted elsewhere thankfully) so all is well and taken care of. Unfortunately it is extremely difficult to find a way to contact moderators/staff. The contact button on the main website has loaded a blank page for me for weeks now. Changing browsers and devices has not helped. The privacy policy and TOS does not have any email address written that I can contact. For the few admins on this forum, I could not find a direct message button for most of them. The only one I was able to find a message button for was Sandy, who says he's not even staff and can't do anything. So this website is greatly outdated when it comes to ease of use and respecting the users' right to control their data. It should not be this difficult to get a photo removed but alas, here we are.
  2. mood_lover
    Thanks for the response. I couldn't find a way to delete some attached images from past threads. I need them removed. How can I do this? Thanks for your help.
  3. mood_lover
    Hi, hope you are well. Is there any way to delete all my past threads/comments and attachments? Please let me know, thank you
  4. mood_lover
    Dunno what some of you guys are on about regarding GAS or it being more about photos rather than hardware, but I do apologize for lack of context. I only own one camera body and one lens so this has nothing to do with “acquiring more equipment for the sake of equipment”. It will soon be time for me to invest in more since I need backups as an aspiring wedding photographer. I was asking mostly because in the future I may want to sell my 35L II in order to move over to mirrorless cameras since a lot of the features I’m seeing (higher resolution, eye tracking without recomposing etc) are attractive to me as a portrait and wedding photographer. At the moment, a good condition 35L II sells for almost the same price as a brand new one on eBay. If this trend remains, that would be lovely when its time for me to change systems/formats. Though I worry that if mirrorless cameras become the norm, my DSLR lenses may not sell for much. This is a valid concern as someone who is watching their expenses is it not? Im sure I’m just being overly paranoid but hey, anything can happen in the next few years
  5. mood_lover
    After seeing the technological beauty of the A7Riii and Canon/Nikon both introducing mirrorless cameras this year, I am starting to get worried that my Canon L lenses may soon begin to lose value as they won’t natively work on mirrorless cameras. Is there a chance that mirrorless becomes the new standard and DSLRs die out as mirrorless begins to match all technical and ergonomic aspects of DSLRs? If so, does this mean that within the next coming years, lenses made for DSLRs will slowly lose value and won’t sell for as high as they used to? I understand adapters can help mount a DSLR lens onto a mirrorless, but is that enough to help retain value?
  6. mood_lover
    Taken on an iphone, I've of course exposed for the screens so the reddish/magenta color cast is pronounced. In reality, its a very slight hint of magenta but I want it to be as white and close to the 6500K light as possible. Macbook Air 13" screen for reference, and a 6500K light in my room for reference. I have calibrated numerous times using an i1 Display and tried both softwares: BenQ's Palette Master Elements and i1Profiler, neither of which make the whites look truly white like the Macbook Air's screen does. The monitor temperature is set to 6500K, and I've of course selected D65 as my calibration temperature, along with standard 120cd/m3. What the hell is going on? This is driving me mad, is my monitor defective? Please let me know ASAP so I can return before its too late. Thank you!
  7. mood_lover
    I was doing research in the first two hours of this thread. I am technically inclined as I stated on my first post and pick this stuff up quickly. I didn't have any models in mind, I just came across the BenQ's that have recently been marketed towards photographers and they had stunning reviews so I wanted to bring them up and ask which would be a good option to go with I looked for your recommended LG, it was discontinued. So I looked into what makes a photographers monitor and learned about IPS, color gamut and fidelity, color reproduction, watched all the youtube reviews etc you don't have to research for weeks to quickly get an idea of what to look for can you understand that? Im shopping, not becoming an engineer What I didn't understand is why the expensive monitor has 14-bit 3D LUT and how much of a difference it makes for color correctors like myself using a monitor that may not have that. Hence me asking if someone who knows can pitch in (whether thats you or anyone else). Really don't understand your confusion, not everyone is a slow learner
  8. mood_lover
    Whoa it was just a random comment no need to get angry...thanks anyways have a good one
  9. mood_lover
    Yeah I might do that. I'm looking at two different BenQ monitors. One is the new SW2700PT at $600 99% AdobeRGB and the other is the older PW2700Q at $329 75% AdobeRGB. Both have almost identical specs with the difference being in AdobeRGB and the more expensive one sports a 14-bit 3D LUT. Wondering how significant these two differences are, maybe some monitor pros can pitch in Comparison between: 27" BenQ PD2700Q, 27" BenQ SW2700PT, 27" Dell InfinityEdge U2717D, 27" LG 27UD68 I think I may buy the cheaper one since its 100% sRGB and if its going to do the job
  10. mood_lover
    Hey Tim thanks for the response. Some better monitors I'm looking at boast that they cover 99% of AdobeRGB but some of the lower end ones don't boast that, they claim that they cover 100% sRGB but don't even mention AdobeRGB. I know AdobeRGB is a wider color space, is that something I need? I rarely print, most of my final output is for web. Will look into this LG, thanks!
  11. mood_lover
    Hi all, wasn't sure where to post this so mods please move if necessary. I am looking for a relatively affordable (< $400) color correction monitor. I understand these things are super hard to come by for this price but its all I can afford at the moment. I can probably get my hands on an X-Rite i1 calibrator if necessary. It has to be 1920x1080 minimum (but I have no need for more resolution) and great for color correction. Honestly I have no clue what to look for in a monitor that proves it's meant for this but I'm pretty technically savvy so I can pick it up quickly. Thanks for any suggestions!
  12. mood_lover
    (this question is only about the visual look or appearance, not about power, convenience, features, temperature, etc) Howdy. I live by the motto that light is light, and regardless of the source they all [generally] are guided by the same principals and laws of physics. However, I was speaking to a well known lighting expert in my city and he told me that continuous/hot lights actually look slightly different. "It has a subtle nuance to it, a subtle glow or smoothness because the quality of light is different at the source". I found this hard to believe if the bulb whether continuous or flash is modified the same way, under the same power. So I ask, has anyone actually conducted a test on this topic? I wish I could, but don't have continuous lights at the moment. Why is it that flash "looks like flash" and continuous light doesn't "look like continuous". Is it because the key light on the face is usually too strong when people use strobes? Where does the "looks like flash" idea come from if light is light after all? Why is it that the extremely powerful hot lights used in cinema don't look artificial?
  13. mood_lover
    Hi all, found this lovely still life by photographer J. Tasker: Photo removed. Per the photo.net Terms of Use, do not post photos that are not yours. Use a link to the photo at a location where the photographer has put it. I have a small Yongnuo 560-IV speedlite with 9" soft box I would like to dedicate to this task but can't figure out how to make the triangle/cone shape of light that starts small at the top and expands as it comes down. I love how it lands behind the flower pot and is the brightest point of that light. I will be doing this for portraits, not still life. Also, I have a roll of cinefoil available (but not really sure how to use it) if that will help cut light from the sides like the reference. Is the background light a hard light? Soft light? I really don't know and would appreciate help, thanks!!!
  14. mood_lover
    Ed, are these photos in the medium format scans gallery all from the CoolScan 8000? The detail and color is amazing!
  15. mood_lover
    Ed would you mind fixing the link? Its currently linked to the user's profile Photo.net - Discover, Develop and Discuss Photography
  16. mood_lover
    Very interesting results, but that funky color on the Noritsu is obviously due to auto-mode and not an indicator of quality when using manual settings. Anyways say youre right about the cost, due to automation and output. How do you explain the examples in the link I sent? They usually scan with a Frontier and get a quality and feel that I cant seem to figure out how to pull off on any other scanner. Here's the link again: Martin Condomines: 5 Months Away - Carmencita Film Lab
  17. mood_lover
    Hmm, as I suspected the colors from your Epson results are much different than even the LS-50 results which I prefer much more. The LS-50 colors are calmer, more in balance with one another, and feel very film-like. The Epsons are more vivid, not exactly in harmony, and feel more digital. Don't know if that makes sense. Check out this Carmencita blog post for example, the colors here are gorgeous: Martin Condomines: 5 Months Away - Carmencita Film Lab
  18. mood_lover
    Youre right and I am still on guard anytime I buy such old second hand equipment. I have 14 days to return it but after that as you know it just becomes a risk. But still, I figure if it doesn't last too long I can sell it off as parts and take it as a lesson learned. If it at least works for a year then my money was worth it. The 60 day warranty must be honored if the electronics are fried within the two months but Im trying not to be so negative cause I've heard good things and this guy seems like a dedicated scanner seller. We'll see I guess. Should I ask him the history of the scanner? Im not sure what he'd say to me if he's trying to sell it and I've already arranged to buy it. What would an escape plan even be?
  19. mood_lover
    Hmm I find this really hard to believe considering each hardware has its own way of interpreting the same negative. You're claiming your flatbed scans are as good or better than $30000 dedicated film scanner hardware. Do you have any proof? Any work online that shows your color scans? Color is first determined by the hardware, as its the first point of entry for the information coming in from the scanner. You are telling me you use post production to map your reds, greens, and blues that are coming in from the Epson to that of the Frontier, and I just cant believe it til I see it. The labs I use are FIND, Richard Photo Lab, and Carmencita.
  20. mood_lover
    Thanks for the info, where can I see more of your scans? I loved the one you posted earlier, it has such a 3D feel to it that I look for. You should make a tutorial on scanning, you're very good at this. Regarding silverfast, does using the IT calibration card help achieve better colors? I don't really need "accuracy", I'm looking more for a feel and style that I see the big labs produce. I love their colors.
  21. mood_lover
    The seller is nikon_coolscan from eBay. He claims the unit is mint, just serviced, offers 60 day warranty. Here is his account page for anyone interested: nikon_coolscan on eBay For the anti-newton ring glass, if I put it on top of the film, is the scanner going to scan through the glass using it's lens? Or is the lens underneath the film tray, on the opposite side of the glass?
  22. mood_lover
    Thanks for the reply, but I don't think this is accurate. Colors can vary wildly from hardware to hardware, the software is what is controlled by the operator yes, but the incoming color from one hardware can greatly affect the final output. The colors I see coming from a big lab Frontier has been unmatched by any other scanner I've seen. If a person tries to match the colors its never right. On another forum Ive been told the 8000 cannot match the colors of a Frontier, it just has its own feel to it
  23. mood_lover
    Great to hear, I don't need huge sizes yet so up to 20x24" is more than enough for me right now. This is an issue or maybe misunderstanding that I have. The pro lab Noritsu/Frontiers spit out this beautiful color that you just can't recreate in Photoshop. Unfortunately without owning one of those scanners I don't think I'll get their colors. But I am after better film-style colors than what my V800 is giving out, you think thats possible?
  24. mood_lover
    Do you have any experience comparing its scans to the 8000? Honestly the 9000 is far out of my budget range and the reason I asked about it is because I wanted to know how much quality I was losing by buying an 8000 instead.
  25. mood_lover
    Hi David, I am scanning for web and print using 6x7 negatives. Don't know the exact dimensions yet but I'd say like 20x24" if possible otherwise smaller is fine. I know when you hear web you think I dont need a great scanner but I do notice the difference in color and resolution, and being that film is my passion I do want to get great lab looking results if you think thats possible with the 8000. When you say the scan still won't be perfect and there will still be limits, what are you speaking of? I am looking to upgrade from my flat digital looking results from my Epson V800 flatbed and get closer to lab results without getting the CoolScan 9000, do you think thats easily doable with the 8000? Also, why are you surprised minilab scans are superior to my flatbed scans? I cant compete with the $10-30,000 Noritsu or Frontiers they use!
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