louisa_pili Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 <p>Hello everyone, <br> I recently decided to purchase equipment to process my own film. <br> So I use the Rollei Digibase C41 Kit made of 3 developers, a bleacher, a fixer and a stabilizer. Right before starting the developer I warm up and wash my film with 35°C filtered water, then do the whole process but repeat the "cleaning" part with the filtered water between each step to avoid the mix of chemicals in the AP developing tank I have. I am very precautious with the timing and the indications of the temperatures (as far as I know I've had it bang on every time)<br> I use Tudor 100 ISO and Lomography 100, but also Fujifilm Superia Xpro 400.<br> I'm on my third film now, and even though I get good result in regards to the negatives, there is a blue/purple hue all the way across all my scanned images, somehow the bottom half is very exposed and the top half very much the opposite, the colors look extremely contrasted. <br> Am I doing anything wrong or is it the scanner? When I looked closely on the negs everything appears alright.<br> Here's some pictures so you know what I mean : loumeetsthekarma.tumblr.com<br> Also, if I have Ilford C41 Black and White film, can I still develop it with the Rollei Kit? <br> And do I need to put more chemicals if I wanna do two reels in the same tank? </p> <p>Any help very much appreciated, </p> <p>Thanks a lot. <br> Lou</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry thirsty Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I haven't used the Digibase kit yet, and I'm not sure if this is the answer to your problem, but: you really shouldn't be rinsing the film in water between the steps. They are designed to work in the order stated, with some cross-mixing from step to step. And yes you can use it for Ilford C41. Finally, if you're doing two reels with inversion agitation, then you need enough chemistry to cover them. If you are using a rotary process, then your tank instructions should tell you how much you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 <p>Where they all shot with the same camera?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirteenthumbs Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 <p>The purple line across the posted sample is a dirty scanner that needs a thourough cleaning, the underside of the scan glass, the mirrors, the lens front and rear outer surfaces and the sensor.<br> Test your therometer against another therometer at recomended processing temperature. At 35°C you may be inducuing a color cast from the low temperature. I have used Jobo press kits, a 3 step C-41 kit, that calls for 103°F/39.4°C. You should be free of color shifts at 38.3°C to 40.5°C. The first step requires constant agatiton, the others do not. All chemicals and rinse water should be at the same temperature. Do not rinse after the stabalizer.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamie_robertson2 Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 <p>Please excuse my bluntness but you haven't been using the 3 developers separately have you? i.e. one after the other?</p> <p>Excluding that, if the chemicals and concentrations are good, the temperature and timings are bang on and the agitation is near enough then you should have perfect results.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wogears Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 <p>+1 Charles Monday. Scanner artifact.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louisa_pili Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 <p>Hi guys, </p> <p>Thanks a lot for the response, really helped. <br> Jamie, the 3 parts of the developer are mixed in one and then I use the one bottle don't worry haha! <br> The first lot were shot with a OM10 Olympus and the later ones on the blog with a 70's Minolta.<br> I'm gonna clear the scanner and see what I can do. <br> Maybe Am I scanning it on a resolution way too high? <br> Thanks a million </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louisa_pili Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 <p>Hey Guys,<br> Cleaned the scanner completely and the big purple line is completely gone! So a million thanks for helping me out with that :)<br> I still have the bluey hue and the over exposure at the bottom half of the film. <br> What I am thinking, is that maybe some of the chemicals have dried onto the film without being swiped properly. Would that look like the problem I'm getting? </p> <p>Thanks again</p> <p>Lou</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 <p>It is amazing what one speck of dirt can do.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_zhuang Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 <p>Ice Ice Baby</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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