Oops - loaded C-41 film in my tank by mistake

[reid_forrest]

<p>I just loaded a roll of 120 film in my developing tank, not realizing it was C-41 process. I've only ever processed B&W film. I don't want to lose this roll if I don't have to so I guess I'm going to find out how hard C-41 is to process at home. Any suggestions to increase my chances of success?<br>

Edit: It's Ilford XP2 400 that I loaded</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>1. If it were me, and I still had a local place to get 120 C-41 processed, I'd just take the tank to them and let them load their developer cartridge (or whatever it's called) in a dark bag or their darkroom.<br>

Otherwise, you could use your dark bag to simply unload the film and rewind it on a reel, which you would then seal )in the bag) into a light proof container, or if you have the backing paper still, .....</p>

<p>2. There's something called "cross-processing" where non-'proper' developers are used -- afterall, there are few silver-based films that can't be done one way or the other in the standard B&W developers.</p>

<p>3. Do as you've suggested and actually do the C-41 processing. The main difference from B&W processing back in the day when I did c-41 processing was that it required greater care and attention to temperature and other variables. The problem is, does anyone still make small kits for C41 processing of a only a few rolls?</p>

<p>Isn't XP-2 dandy?</p>

[glen_h]

<p>With XP2, you don't have to worry about color shift, if you get the time or temperature a little off.<br>

The main thing that makes it hard is that it is at 100F. At least in the cool seasons, it is harder to keep things warm enough. <br>

The chemicals cost a little more, too.</p>

[dave_s]

<p>+1 JDMvW's second sentence. I'd take it off the reel, tape the backing paper back on, and wind it back onto a 120 spool. If no backing paper, secure the film on the spool, and wrap it all in a few layers of aluminum foil.</p>

[reid_forrest]

<p>I appreciate everyone's responses, and I've given a lot of thought to it. While I don't want to burn this roll of film, it was a bit of a longshot anyway since the battery was dead on my Yeshiva Mat TLR, and I had no meter. I was relying on what my DSLR read and my gut for exposure.<br>

With that said, I took the plunge and ordered a C41 kit from B&H. I've always wanted to try C41 processing at home, but have been a little intimidated. This seems like as good a roll as any to give it a shot!<br>

I'll post back here and let y'all know how it turns out. Hopefully not too bad. :)</p>

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>Reid,</p>

<p>C41 is easy. The only thing you need to take care with is the temperature and timing of the initial development stage. It must be dead on 38C / 100F. If you're just using a basic tank get hold of the biggest container you can find (huge bucket) and fill it with 40C water. Put the tank in there for 5 - 10 minutes to get it warmed through then pour in the developer that you've pre-warmed to 38C. Keep the tank held under the water during the entire development procedure to keep the temperature steady. Your negs will turn out perfect. Bleach and fix isn't as critical .+/- 3C is fine.</p>

[reid_forrest]

<p>Go my C41 press kit yesterday and after a lot of fiddling with the water temperature was able to process the film successfully! I used my film washer hose to create a constant flow bath, and was able to keep all the chemistry at a perfect 102F (which is what the Jobo kit instructions called for). I was glad I did a prewash on the film. Having come from the B&W world I didn't expect the tank load of blue crud that came off the film during prewash.<br>

While I think technically it all went perfectly, I can't say so much for the images. :( I think I got one or two good ones off the roll. I haven't used my Yeshica Mat TLR in about 10 years, and I'm going to need to practice a bit more with it. It's a little "fiddly" I think. <br>

Thanks for everyone's help. I'm definitely going to do more C41 in the near future.</p>

[James G. Dainis]

I prewash is good to heat the film and reel to developer temperature. Even with the tank in 102 degree water, the tank may warm up but the film and reel will stay at room temperature unless kept in the 102 degree water for a very long time. Then when the 102 degree developer hits the 70 degree film and reel it immediately drops down a few degrees. When tray developing 8x10 Ektachrome sheet film, I didn't do a prewash but I would have the developer 1/2 degree higher for each film that I was going to do. Usually I did six films at a time so I had the developer three degrees higher. That worked out fine.

[christopher_moss]

<p>I agree that C-41 is much easier than people generally think, there is another alternative here. I usually develop XP2 in 1:100 Rodinal for one hour of stand development. Three inversions at the start and at 30 minutes, then fix and wash as usual with B&W chemicals. Lovely results and cheaper than using C-41 chemicals.</p>