Shooting Dark Skin Tones At NIGHT!

[f_s2]

<p>Help please <br />Im using My Canon 600d to shoot portraits at night. Usually I have no issues but the last time I shot this particular person you can not see them due to their dark skin tones. Ive tried the flash and it is still difficult to see the individual. The night portrait setting is also not useful due to his skin tone.<br />How do I fix this problem? <br />help please asap :) </p>

[MichaelChang]

<p>Can you show us an example of the failed shot and leave the EXIF data intact? </p>

[BrianS1664879711]

<p>Have you tried compensating to achieve additional exposure. You might find a bit more success.</p>

[savagesax]

Without seeing a photo I would strongly suggest using a second flash unit aimed at the background. This will light

up the background and the persons profile will pop right out.

 

The only other option that I can think of is shooting at a very slow shutter speed and a higher ISO. 800 to1600

ISO and at a 15th of a second, perhaps F 5.6. The flash should/will stop any minor movement of this person,

however try to remind the person to remain still. If the background is really dark, like shooting at night, well the

results probably won't be what you are looking for.

[walter_degroot]

<p>one of the difficulties with darker skin tomes is that the film and possibly the digital sensor does<br>

not SEE them the same as the human eye.<br>

many afro - americans seem more yellow then brown or almost black. this broblem was even worse<br>

when the older Ektachrome was used. blus and green came out wrong.<br>

because of the dyes used to color cloth.<br>

I do not think it is because most camera engineers are<br>

white or aisian. and I think there will always be a color visualization problem.</p>

<p> </p>

[markonestudios]

<p>Without a sample image to see, it is very difficult to offer any real help...</p>

[f_s2]

<p><img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t34.0-12/10877504_917465878272696_1712895628_n.jpg?oh=15f8bace3c87da53a00e32f9edf32902&oe=54A30DA6&__gda__=1419972662_19d2e23c32c2620739fa56f01c0f31f9" alt="" width="960" height="640" /></p>

[f_s2]

<p>I understand this picture is not the best at the moment due to the blur, but it is an example of what keeps on reoccurring.</p>

[parv]

For the picture posted, should have put the lighter sky in the background behinds the heads; should have aimed the flash bit higher as the exposure of the white shirt decreases from front-to-back & bottom-to-top.

 

As already had been noted, a second light (on a light stand or held by someone) on the side or behind to separate people in general would be an improvement.

[etphoto]

<p>First off, take the camera off "Portrait mode" and shoot manual settings. The problem with that image is its underexposed. parv made a good suggestion, change the background to something lighter. Yet, even with a lighter background the image will still be under exposed. </p>

[pete_s.]

<p>I've brightened up your image as much as it would have been if the white t-shirt was properly exposed (white with detail). As you can see it doesn't make a big difference.</p>

<p>The problem is not really exposure. What you are trying to do is shoot something called black on black. Something black you want to see on a black background. It's very difficult even for seasoned photographers.</p>

<p>The hard thing is that something black on a black background with the perfect exposure will still just be black. Getting the exposure right is simply not enough. To solve this you need to play with the lighting. The key is to use reflection of the light in the black persons skin. It's called specular reflection. In this case you can also adjust the exposure a little by placing the black person closer to the flash than the person with the white t-shirt.</p>

<p>If you don't have much light equipment you can add a second light source by using a street light for instance. Absolutely best would be if you could use off camera flash so the flash light is not coming from the camera position.</p>

<p>If this all sounds too complicated, don't feel bad because as I said it's not easy and perhaps you need to learn more before you can pull off an advanced portrait like this and be happy with the results.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[pete_s.]

<p>Oh, the image didn't show up. I'll try again.</p><div></div>

[michaelmowery]

<p>Lol at first I am thinking that is not a dark skinned person but now I see the man in the bush. The problem is All about exposure and flash to subject distance. The basic rule of inverse square law comes to mind here. Granted the situation is amplified by the darker tones of the man in the bush. A single flash can only expose at one distance at a time after that light drops off very quickly. Next time have both subjects equal distance from flash or have a second flash to expose for the distance of the second subject that is further away. Lastly make sure everyone is properly exposed by using a meter.</p>

[bob_bill]

<p>If I only had one flash, I would get it off camera to camera L with a shoot through umbrella so as Pete said, it is closer and in tight to the person with the darkest skin and rapid fall off would help even the tones. A large soft source would help enlarge the specular highlights on the black skin and soften the specular edge transfer. I would also move them 4' to camera right and lower the camera postion so the heads were in the brighter sky then no second light needed. Have them lean forward at the waist a bit to get closer to perpendicular to the camera. </p>

[f_s2]

<p>Thankyou all<br>

What would you recomend me to set my IOS, Shutter speed and so forth too because I had the setting perfectly done and then my camera was taken from me and my manual settings where changed <br>

thanks guys</p>

 

[michaelmowery]

<p>I am in no way being rude in my response. May I suggest you take a class on photography? It is kinda of impractical to ask someone on a forum what all my settings on the camera and the flash should be set to. Your basically asking us to take the picture for you. Also it is kind of difficult to know what to do without being there. You actually should use an auto mode or program so you can at least achieve a useable picture. Take note of what the camera chose for the f-stop,shutter speed and iso. Then switch to manual and put in those settings. You see you have your own personal teacher right with you in the camera.<br>

There has to be some exploration on your part. Its not like in the film days when you took a picture and had to wait a few days to see what you shot. You have a screen on your camera so use it and see what happens when you change the settings (iso, shutter, f-stop) You have to put some time and effort in learning photography. Take notes as you go along. Thats what I did and I am self taught. </p>

[f_s2]

<p>Ive set my<br>

ISO = 100<br>

F/= 5.6<br>

Exposer time:<br>

1/50</p>

<p>wish me luck</p>

 

[parv]

<p>Why is the exposure time of 1/50 s, not 1/30 s or 1/200 s? Why is the ISO of 100, not of 400 or 800?

 

<p>Depending on ambient light conditions, a "standard" flash would need to be firing at full or half power at "reasonable" distances to "properly expose" the subject at ISO 100 (and f/5.6 of lens aperture). And, dimly lit background would likely go dark|black.

 

<p>On providing you the settings, see <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/shutter-speed-aperture-iso/">shutter speed, aperture and ISO</a> by Neil v N. See also some of other <a href="https://duckduckgo.com/?q=iso+flash+aperture+site%3Aneilvn.com&kag=1&kf=fw&k8=333&k1=-1&kx=r&kz=-1&kaa=p&kp=-1&ka=c&k9=b&kn=1&ko=1&kt=g&kae=c&kv=1&kd=1&kaf=1">articles on the topic</a> ...

 

<ul>

<li> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-dispelling-some-urban-legends/">flash photography – dispelling some 'urban legends'</a></li>

 

<li> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/when-aperture-does-not-control-flash-exposure/">when aperture doesn’t control the flash exposure</a></li>

 

<li> <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/using-higher-iso-settings-with-flash/">why use such high ISO settings with flash?</a></li>

</ul>

[f_s2]

<p> was taking mass photos a few days ago, and I had it set to Manual, when after about 40 photos, the rest started coming out black. I could see through my eyepiece clearly, it took the photo normally, but when I reviewed it they were all black. Now I literally try every setting possible and it comes out with a black photo<br>

and yes I have removed the lens cap<br>

help me please the party is tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br>

and yes im going to attend classes relax<br>

</p><div></div>

[f_s2]

<p>to this</p><div></div>

[michaelmowery]

<p>Fawzia, The only answer I can give you is the flash did not fire or the flash connection is in question. What you need to do is take a picture during the day when you have enough light to make an available light picture. If that works you know its the flash and/or connection on the hotshoe. Try another flash. Your shot of the boy on the rock looked good flash exposure wise. I personally don't like a black background but I don't know what your looking for.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>Farwzia,<br>

What flash are you using for those portraits? -<br>

Is it the 'Pop Up Flash' that is in the camera? -<br>

Or are you using an 'Hot Shoe' flash that you attach to your camera? </p>

<p>WW</p>

[parv]

Fawzia has started another thread on the topic: http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00d2iM

[Jochen_S]

<p>I'm not sure if the Wedding forum thread is about the same topic, since the linked image there says "flash not fired" in EXIF, while both here claim it fired.<br>

I have no clue what makes a camera mark a file as "flash fired". I am no Canon user either. But with my Pentax I would have the pitfall of setting my usually niclely working flash to "wireless" i.e. as the master controlling other external ones. In that case it would visibly fire before the exposure and my pictures should turn out dark when the slaves it is supposed to control aren't there to do the lighting. <br>

Check your flash settings Fawzia</p>

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>Fawzia has started another thread on the topic: <a href="/wedding-photography-forum/00d2iM" rel="nofollow">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00d2iM</a></p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

Yes, I think that others also noticed that other thread. <br>

<br>

Although slightly different, I think that the two threads are very similar, in so far as there seems that the answer to both threads could be that there is a basic misunderstanding/miscomprehension of the uses of Manual Mode and the use of the TTL Light Meter: and from that - then the added issue of not understanding some of the basics of the use of Flash.<br>

<br>

***<br /><br>

<br>

<strong>Fawzia:</strong><br>

<br>

There is NO simple answer which comprises “use these MANUAL settings” that will suit all shooting scenarios. <br>

<br>

It occurs to me probable that you started a new thread because you are frustrated that you are stuck getting dark photos – the sample photo in the second thread that you started is definitely underexposed – a great deal underexposed – and as the EXIF states that it was Manual Mode, then we must conclude that either the camera is not functioning correctly (unlikely) or you do not understand how to use the TTL Light Meter which is in the camera (more likely)<br>

<br>

It is in your best interest to answer the questions asked of you in both the threads.<br>

<br>

It is not good practice to ask the same question in different threads: in fact doing so contravenes the User Guidelines. There is a very good reason for this rule, as when we have two or more conversations happening with the same Original Poster – the multile conversations become difficult to follow. <br>

<br>

WW<br>

<br>

***<br /><br>

<strong> </strong></p>

<blockquote>

<p><strong>MODERATOR NOTE:</strong><br>

I encourage Fawzia to respond to all the questions and tasks asked in both threads as soon as possible. <br>

Most likely I will close one of the threads and reference it to the other, so only one conversation remans open. </p>

</blockquote>

<p> </p>