Jump to content

A 365 day thread


Recommended Posts

<p>Hello everyone. Fitting that Dec 7 should come from Hawaii. This shot is from the Big Island town of Honokaa, about 45 miles west of Hilo along the Hamakua Coast. It, along with many others, comprised a chain of sugar plantations that almost ringed the northern coast line of the Big Island of Hawaii well into the 1970's. The movie theatre/café boast a 100% solar energy operation. Once again my Isolette3 with a 25A filter, UltrafineX400 @ 200 asa via a Pilot meter. 1ml Obsidian Aqua @ 19 minutes, V600 scan. Aloha, Bill</p><div>00dcbP-559623184.jpg.e90a97cbfc51e6ab0a25cc737eb347c2.jpg</div>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 569
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

<p>Hello again everyone. Tony the film is an unknown type rebadged by Ultrafine thru sales on Ebay. I had tried their offerings several years ago and the 120 film was some junk from China, or ??? When my placed burned this summer, a good stock of Tmax films (100 and 400 asa), over a liter of 510-Pyro developer and ALL my photo chemicals went up with the smoke. To get back in the game, I purchased the two chemicals to make the Obsidian Aqua (OA) ($30 for a liter) and put in an order (ebay) for a "sampler" pack of 6 rolls of the Ultrafine 120 films (3 each of 100 and 400). That also was just about $30 USD.<br /> The developer is by Jay Defehr (510-Pyro man) and his idea was for a Pyro staining developer without the cost of the liquid TEA. OA is Cathecol and Sodium Metabisulfate in water. 3 grams of Potasium Carbonate is added to the working OA solution. Chemistry is not my ace, so check his web site / blog for the exact formulas and mixing directions.<br /> Jay's advice is for development in the 7-13 minute range, but I did not like the thin negatives...I like mine to have that condenser enlarger range of values from my years of using a modified Zone System. I experimented with a number of rolls and landed very close to my 510-Pyro times. 19 minutes is my Normal development time, with +/- 1 being 2 minutes plus/minus either end of that 19 minutes. The OA is concentrated and only 1.0 ml is used in my 450ml Nikor tank for a 120 roll. I use a 3 min presoak of DI water, empty and pour the OA in, with 30 seconds of ez turn overs, one (1) turn over each minute thereafter. Fixing is with TF-2 hypo. I have not "played" with their 35mm films, so have no knowledge of what might occur there.<br /> I have been amazed at the fine, tight grain of the 400 UFX material and have "sorta" standardized using it in the 6x6 and 6x9 cm cameras. The 100 material is a bit on the contrasty side, but still very good. Scanning with the V600 yields full range negatives, slightly on the flat side. So far, post production work with the computer is limited to contrast controls and spotting the lock nessies that get onto the film now and then.<br /> Bill</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Bill,<br>

We all know that Ultrafine film is junk and nobody should buy it. They should stick only to Kodak and Ilford films. Right!<br>

Now Bill, this is just between you and me, but I love the stuff. The reason for the above statement is so everybody doesn't load up on Ultrafine and either deplete the stock or drive the price up. Our little secret okay??? You have to buy the "Ultrafine Xtreme" version of this film and NOT the Ultrafine Plus" version. At least that's what I have found anyway. I have only used the 100 ISO in 35mm (bulk) and it's as good as anything else in 100 speed film. In 120 I prefer the ISO 100, but the 400 is very good also as your shot shows. I use mainly WD2H+ pyro and Xtol replenished with it and have no complaints at all. My fixer is 5 gal. of TF-2 that I mixed-up awhile back. This combination makes a very good low-cost setup with first rate results. Your OA is probably a little cheaper than my homemade WD2H+, but not by much. Oh, very nice tones by the way. John W</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Hello again. One reads a lot of the forum postings wondering about the "fate" of b/w films or "how great" this or that emulsion "was", but the reality is that b/w films are slowly going into economic history. Since starting b/w work in the early 1960's, I have always had several emulsions in my kit, and "experiment" with new ones continuously. Ultrafine Xtreme emulsions are just another in that progression. With Ilford and Kodak material costing close to 2x more, the money factor is also there, along with the availability factor. No, I will not buy up a life time supply...hey, I'm 73 this month...but will keep a stock of perhaps 20 rolls in the frig for now. Toot the horn?..Yes...I have always believed in sharing data, both good and bad. Years gone by it was thru my photo clubs and professional organizations, today the Net lets everyone enjoy. Aloha, Bill</p><div>00dchq-559636484.jpg.646793f2562471bdc068094e4d27f9b3.jpg</div>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thanks Bill, really appreciate your sharing the information. Down here in OZ things are just getting harder and harder to get. I have to buy my pyro developers from the US as there are no sources here now.<br>

Last time I looked at getting a couple of packs of pyrocat hd and pmk pyro from the US, they wanted $125.00 for postage.....eek!<br>

I still have enough for maybe six months, after that? Ilford films are still fairly easy to get, but expensive, and Tri-X is very hard to come by now.<br>

Apparently B&W silver photography is now officially an "alternative" process :)</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...