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What is the best UV filter for the Nikkor 24-70 G ?


sam_ginger

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<p>I'll leave the debate about how seldom or often a protective filter should be used to others. When you do need one, I'd suggest:<br>

<br />- Multicoating with a water-repellent layer. Multicoating helps a lot with flare, as the lenstip tests show. A water-repellent layer makes them much easier to clean. Hoya calls their latest water-repellent filters 'HD', which should be optically similar to Super HMC, but with the added advantage of easier maintenance. B+W's water-repellent filters are called 'MRC', or 'MRC nano' for the very latest version. I have a couple of B+W MRC filters and find them much easier to clean than, say, Hoya Pro-1 filters (which are Super HMC without the repellent layer).</p>

<p>- Maybe a slim mount, to reduce the chance of vignetting. I suspect you'd be fine even with a standard mount at 24mm (unless you stack filters), but a slim mount will definitely be fine. The Hoya HD filters are all slim. The B+W version is called 'XS-Pro Digital'. Both of these also have front threads to allow stacking filters or lens caps (though be careful to make sure the clips on your cap don't touch and scratch the filter). B+W also make very thin 'Slim-Line' mounts, but these don't have front threads (and are overkill for a 24mm).</p>

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<p>Rodeo Joe: if you were to think about it, it is not so much a matter of whether filter technology has moved on, although it may have. It is a matter of what manufacturers might now be producing. Some down the list may well have improved quality. Others may have changed production methods with detrimental effects. Was there not that possible issue a year or two ago with a major manufacturer regarding some of their filters?</p>

<p>Of course, other makes or labels may have come to the market. Were the tests as recent as five years ago?</p>

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<p>After having a fairly expensive Nikon UV filter shatter and scratch my new Tokina 11-16 lens, I bought the Hoya High Density UV filter that supposedly has extra strong glass. So far I really, really like this filter. I like keeping good UV filters on my lenses most of the time as I often shoot in wet conditions.</p>
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<p>Hoya uses aluminum rings, whereas B+W and Heliopan use brass. Aluminum is more flexible, making them more prone to binding. Aluminum tends to corrode and gall if left in place for a long time. Brass is stiffer and self-lubricating, and has much smoother machined surfaces than aluminum.</p>
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<p>Use a lens filter? I just replaced a clear Nikon filter, not the front element of the 24-70. Apparently it was around my neck and swung into something before I put the hood on. No damage to the lens other than jamming it in the lens. Local repair guy got it off easily. Darn right there is another filter in it's place. Not my favorite lens, but a workhorse and wouldn't want to be a month or two without it while nikon ran up 2-300 in repairs. I have no problem with flare in or out of studio. If light is getting into the lens, a ball cap or having someone stand in the way takes care of it. In studio, I just pull over something to flag. </p>
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<blockquote>

<p>Which filter will not compromise the quality of the image?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I own and use the following filter brands:<br /> Arona<br />Asanuma<br />B+W<br />Cokin<br />Kenko<br />Nikon<br />Promaster<br />Tiffen<br />Vivitar<br />Quantaray<br /> <br />They range in quality from bargain quality to high quality. All provided some degree of lens protection and all degrade the image quality to some degree.<br /> <br />The only times I use a UV/Haze filter is when I actually need it to reduce UV light (such as when shooting at high altitudes or in snow) or when I need to protect my lens from damage while shooting in a hostile environment (such as when shooting mud wrestling or food fights, in storms or industrial plants, or dirt bike and horse races).<br /> <br />The filter shown here did not survive the fall on concrete – the camera, lens, and lens hood did.<br /> <br /> Filters and Holders /> Filter for lens protection00cztB-553073784.JPG.cf3d733b5772be011eb2b7d70bfa2b62.JPG</div>

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<p>best uv filter for digital? - no filter at all</p>

<p>you need the protection because you are at a hardcorepunk concert, in a war zone, at a dirtbike race,...you get the idea?<br /> use any filter for protection</p>

<p>most people are really afraid the nanocrystal coating or whatever will get damaged.<br /> small scratches on the front element do not hurt anyone because you will not see them (not entirely true but sometimes not that big a deal - press photography etc..or babies...or cats and all that balloney).</p>

<p>for anything big, you got insurance for expensive equipment.</p>

<p>i dropped 4 lenses this year<br /> 1 16-35G<br /> 2 16-35G<br /> 3 16-35G<br /> 4 70-200G 2.8</p>

<p>they never had an uv filter on<br /> and never, ever would it had helped in anyway as the lenses were...dead. impossible to use.</p>

<p>if you run into things alot..like ..people on the street...go get an uv filter.</p>

<p>the uv filter is an optical element that is not calcultaed into the design of the lens and thereby will alter the image quality to the worse.</p>

<p>saying, that uv filter do not change quality simply is wrong.</p>

<p>also the uv filter does not effect your digital image as it did with film</p>

<p>totally useless piece of glass</p>

<p>shops make A LOT of money with those things..<br /> dont waste yours</p>

<p>cheers</p>

<p>edit:<br /> a lens dropped on concrete is broken.<br /> if you do not see any difference..it is your photography that desperatly needs improvement.<br /> :)))))</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>lets say you got those lesnes...for fun sake:</p>

<p>16-35<br>

24-70<br>

70-200</p>

<p>24<br>

35<br>

50<br>

85</p>

<p>and you buy your filters from a good brand.<br>

thats quite a bit of money, now isn't it.<br>

go buy an additional lens, flash, scotch bottles<br>

or whatever with it..</p>

<p> </p>

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