D76 time of package vs kodaks website.

[jeana_doers]

Hello, I actually made an account just to ask this question, because unlike usually, I could not find this specific answer on this site already.

The D76 developer bag says for tmax 100 to develop for 6 1/2 minutes at 68 degrees, but kodaks website for full strength D76 says 10 1/2 minutes at 65 degrees

 

This with 120 film, if that makes a difference.

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Or have a look at the Massive Development Chart. It has lots of times, developers, films, all at various temperatures and dilutions in a convenient database. Here's a link to the page with TMAX 100 for D76. <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=TMax+100&Developer=D-76&mdc=Search&TempUnits=F">http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=TMax+100&Developer=D-76&mdc=Search&TempUnits=F</a></p>

[jeana_doers]

It just seemed kind of odd to not follow kodaks websites. Thanks for the link. It also says 6 1/2 mins. I developed some

the other day at 10 1/2 and it turned out fine. So I just thought there might be a difference between 6 and 10 mins.

[lex_jenkins]

<p>With TMX the main difference you'll see with developing times will be in contrast and highlights. There won't be much grain increase. If most of your photos were in bright sunlight, the shorter developing time may be better; if overcast or hazy, a little longer time may be better.</p>

<p>Both manufacturer's suggested times and those from users are based on subjective factors. There are many variables. Manufacturers try to limit those variables by following ISO standards, but not everyone finds the ISO standard for exposure and processing provides the results they prefer. Ultimately it's up to the individual photographer to choose development that suits their preferences for contrast, etc., and those preferences may be influenced by choices to print in the darkroom, scan digitally, and the various options available in both to control exposure, contrast, selective editing and manipulations, etc.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>The confusion comes from 2 versions of T Max films. T Max Professional , tech pub f32 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f32/f32.pdf , start point is 9 minutes @ 68°F in small tanks, Professional T Max, tech pub f4016 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf , is 6 1/2 minute starting point time in small tanks @ 68°F. Then there is the D76 tech pub, j78 http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf , that list the same times as the films tech pub.</p>

<p>Use the time/temperature for the film you have and the tank type then experiment in 5% to 10% time differences from the published starting point to find the optimal time for your equipment.</p>

[jeana_doers]

I guess I'm still confused, because I had thought that unless you are pushing or pulling your film you have a standard

develop time recommended by the factory. Most of these shots were indoors or overcast, but with good lighting and

proper exposer, so with this roll I would develop at 6 1/2? I'm just not sure the time you develop for, when you don't want

to push or pull. Tmax and d76 are starting to confuse me.

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Pushing or pulling usually is ± 25% of the base time. <br>

A ± 5% of base time in development is just noticeable in standard enlarger printing.<br>

You process a roll of film shot normally at the base time stated by the film manufacturer. If the shadows are weak ( little or no detail ) you increase exposure by 1/3 to 1/2 stop. If the highlights are muddy ( white looks light gray ) you increase development by 10%. If the highlights look burned out ( whites have little or no detail) you decrease development by 5% to 10%.</p>

<p>Film speed, development time/temperature are set under lab conditions which use very tight tolerances. General production camera gear and thermometers use a lesser tolerance. Shutters are considered good up to 1/3 stop off either side of the marked speed. A thermometer may be off .5°F. A light meter may be off 1/3 stop or less. All these minor errors add up and affect the final results. Whether you need to adjust your exposure or development time depends on you and your taste or precision requirements. Box film speed for film, metered exposures, and manufacturers published development time/temperature will produce good usable results for any combination of equipment that is operating within manufacturers tolerance.</p>

<p>Use the manufactures published time for your film and developer. I assume your film is Professional T Max 100 so develop it in fresh, unused D76 full strength for 6 1/2 minutes at 68°F.<br>

See <strong>Development Times</strong> on page 2 of tech pub j78 linked in my previous post.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>If you look at the f4016.pdf described above, it shows what the boxes looks like.<br>

That change was in 2002, so unless you have old film, you want the new times.<br>

The new film is 6:30 at 68F, the old one 9:00 at 68F or 10:30 at 65F.<br>

For ordinary photography, where you have a mix of pictures on the roll, using the suggested times is probably best. If you know more about the pictures, use the suggestions above.<br>

But I cheat and use Diafine, where I don't have to worry about these times and temperatures at all. <br>

<br />But I also just bought a bottle of HC-110 to try sometime.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>"The D76 developer bag says for tmax 100 to develop for 6 1/2 minutes at 68 degrees, but kodaks website for full strength D76 says 10 1/2 minutes at 65 degrees"<br /><br />I haven't checked the times, but generally speaking 6.5 minutes at 68 and 10.5 minutes at 65 are the same thing (or close to it). Film developing is done by time and temperature. The hotter the developer the shorter the developing time for the same result. At 75 degrees, the time would be around 5 minutes.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I think that if you are scanning in the images after development, absolute precision in temperature and times becomes a little less critical.<br>

However, I mostly use Tri-X in D76 these days when I don't use the C-41 chromogenic films done by the local shop. Just lost one of the local developers, however, so I may need to go back to my old standard D76 more often.</p>

[glen_h]

<p>I do wish Kodak could come up with a new name when they change the film enough that the time is different. At least a different three letter code would be nice.<br>

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf<br>

is dated 2002, so old T-Max. </p>

[nikos_k]

<p>When it comes to use a new developer for first time, you have to give it a try as close as to what you thing would be best and then adjust the development according to your preferences.<br>

I have started using the D-76 too. The first thing I did was developing one roll according to the times listed in the Massive Development Chart and then give it more development time until it gets down to the contrast I would like most.</p>

[jeana_doers]

Okay thanks! I completely got it now!

I have not used d76 before so I was

quite confused about the whole times

on the package and so forth. thank

you all for the help and support.

 

P.S my photos processed at 6.5

minutes turned out great by the way!