dSLRs what in-camera features do you use?

[RaymondC]

<p>Recently upgraded to a new D600. What are the features that you use in camera - in camera editing filter effects and the such like, distortion, HDR processing, d-lighting? Or do you just process it on a computer?</p>

<p>Also that I know with Adobr RAW/DNG you can get a free converter and continue using the old Adobe software to recognise the new camera. Are there any drawbacks in this compared to using a advanced version of Adobe software in terms of "previewing" the initial image?</p>

<p>I have been shooting this side/side at night time, I found that the F100 had a better viewfinder and even better the FM2N. </p>

[SCL]

<p>DSLR viewfinders, as has been discussed in great detail, generally lag far behind their film counterparts both in terms of clarity, brightness, and ability to visualize stopped down apertures for DOF considerations. That's the way it goes. I personally rarely use in-camera filter effects, on occasion d-lighting, but most often nothing, since I'm shooting in RAW, I prefer to do my editing in post processing. I've recently been experimenting with the EVIL viewfinders on micro 4/3 bodies, and after initial repugnance, have come to appreciate some of their features like magnified images for fine focusing, and bright images with legacy lenses stopped down. If the dinosaurs don't adapt, they become extinct.</p>

[Andrew Garrard]

<p>I process it on a computer. I've been known to use Active D-lighting, because I do sometimes only have time and facilities to work with my JPEGs, but since I gather it messes with the raw exposure (is that true?) I've taken to turning it off. I'm almost always in auto-white balance, except when I'm shooting lots of JPEGs for speed/buffer reasons and I think I can prepare a sequence. I'd never apply effects in camera, though - I have a perfectly good editing device for that.<br />

<br />

Newer finders tend to have fresnel screens, and therefore not make the best of fast prime lenses. They are, however, brighter with a slow consumer zoom than a plain ground glass would be. The LCD and the autofocus system (because the mirror is only a partial mirror) have an effect on the brightness of the image, but to be honest I don't tend to see that much difference between my F5 and my D700/D800. Use a pentamirror DX camera that's actually receiving less light and the finder is much less pleasant, but that's a trade-off rather than a failing. If it bothers you, don't rule out live view even on a D600.</p>

[Ian Rance]

<p>I use:<br>

D-lighting (usually on 'low' as it helps even the tone of contrasty photos)<br>

Auto distortion correction - always on as it is a great feature I think<br>

Vignette reduction - turned on<br>

Copyright insert - turned on<br>

HDR - use it quite a bit as it helps control very contrasty scenes.</p>

<p>And in the retouch menu I use 'perspective control' and 'straighten'.</p>

[keith selmes]

<p>The features I use are mirror lock and 2 second delay.<br>

Not exactly what the question was about, but I think it answers the question.</p>

 

[elliot1]

<p>While you can get very good results with the in-camera options, for best results, you may want to consider shooting RAW and doing all the editing on your computer.</p>

[jose_angel]

<p>I have all the camera tricks off, and have ever edited nothing in-camera. I`m quite boring... :)</p>

[steve m smith]

<p>Shutter speed, Aoperture (unless I'm using manual lenses), EV adjust and ISO adjust (oh yes, and that big button on the top).</p>

[Two23]

<p>I don't use any of the in-camera editing. As for NEF v. DNG, I would advise steering clear of DNG. Adobe has been changing the way they sell their software. (Effectively doubling the cost.) I'm planning on moving away from Adobe and switching to something else in the near future.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

[Wouter Willemse]

<blockquote>

<p>I've been known to use Active D-lighting,(..), but since I gather it messes with the raw exposure (is that true?)...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It does. Active D-Lighting changes shutterspeeds (shorter by 0.3~0.6 stop) to lift the shadows afterwards. In Nikon's software, the RAW will look just fine, in 3rd party software, it might look slightly underexposed. Even though I use CaptureNX2, I do not find Active D-Lighting worth the hassle - a bit a curve or highlight/shadow protection yields the same result.<br>

As for the in-camera editing tools - tried them once on my D80, about 7 years ago. That was it. Editing RAW files on the PC is a lot easier and more accurate.</p>

[joe_cormier]

<p>The only in-camera function I use is auto white balance. Only shoot in raw so I can modify using Kelvin scale in Lightroom if necessary. Joe Cormier</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<blockquote>

<p>"DSLR viewfinders, as has been discussed in great detail, generally lag far behind their film counterparts......."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That may be somewhat true for DX format cameras, but IME the viewfinders in the D700 and D800 are every bit as good as, if not better than, those of my F2, F3HP and F4 film cameras. Add on the ability to review images immediately after taking to <em>really</em> see what the depth-of-field is like, and DSLRs win hands down over 35mm film with its inferior image quality.</p>

<p>The function I look for most in a DSLR is the ability to capture good quality pictures. Anything else is pretty much a frivolous gimmick that can be dispensed with.</p>

[User_6502147]

<p>Everything in manual...it works for me....resulting in many keepers (in RAW). Normally I'll leave the WB in auto, unless there is a possibility that camera will fluctuate. Consequently, very little editing.</p>

<p>Les</p>

[2Oceans]

On D3s and D800e.

I imagine that The D600 may have many if not all of the same capabilities.

 

Manual mode.

Spot meter with Matrix Fn button >> Matrix meter with Spot meter Fn button.

Virtual horizon set on AE-L, AF-L button.

Continuos Servo Auto focus.

Front shutter release meter and release only.

AF On button set for AF-On only.

Single focus point.

Auto WB>>Manual set WB>>preset WB.

ISO manual.

Raw >> Raw+fine jpg.

 

This is a starting point and everything else is a modification depending on shooting speed, motion tracking and

environmental conditions. Good hunting.

[andylynn]

<p>In camera editing? Like, shooting raw and then applying post effects in camera? I've tried it, but with the small screen and limited and slow interface it's kind of infuriating. Get yourself some decent software. <a href="/deals-and-discounts-forum/00bh7j">Somebody was just saying</a> that Lightroom is at $99 now.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I shoot RAW (with a small jpg for index use with everything set to default or neutral).<br>

Do all "processing" of the image on the computer in Photoshop.</p>