collin_krabbe Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 <p>So I have some 100 iso TMAX 120 film that I will be shooting on a clear bright sunny day. It will be shot with a Holga 120 so obviously, I am limited to basically the same apertures and the same shutter speed, essentially.<br>What I need to know is, what would be the best chemistry combination to obtain minimal grain, and quite a bit of contrast. I currently use D76, but of course I am open to other suggestions.<br>I realize this is all subjective to the user, but all opinions are appreciated.<br>Thanks,<br>Collin</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 <p>Use D-76 for a longer development time. But this will cause more overexposure.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_mareno1 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 <p>I've developed two rolls using Acufine that I bought from Freestyle Photo (my regular developer is D75 too) and I was struck by how fine grained the results were. My negs look nothing like when they come out of D76.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgelfand Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 <p>D-76 1+1 works well for me. Increas the development time slightly for more contrast.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 <p>D-76 1:1 offers more grain, as it eliminates the solvent effect of the Sulfite in D-76. Collin asked for low grain.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 <p>Hi Collin,<br> Your smallest aperture is f/13 (actual), and your shutter speed is 1/100 or 1/125. Either way, your exposure should be very close to optimum for D-76. Stock or 1+1, you're not going to get much grain from TMX. I recommend you follow Kodak's processing recommendations as closely as possible, for best results. Low contrast should not be a problem on a bright, clear, sunny day. Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgelfand Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 <blockquote> <p>D-76 1:1 offers more grain, as it eliminates the solvent effect of the Sulfite in D-76. Collin asked for low grain.</p> </blockquote> <p>The term "low grain' is relative when using TMX 100. True, straight D76 will give slightly less apparent grain but will cost some acutance. I would not say 1+1 eliminates the solvent effect; it does reduce it, thus very slightly increasing the apparent grain and at the same time increasing sharpness. For my taste, I find D76 1+1 a good trade off. Others have different taste.</p> <p>Using 120 film, unless the OP is making a mural, he will not see much grain with any reasonable dilution of D76. On the other hand, using a Holga, sharpness may not be what he wants, either.</p> <p>My preferred combination for an ISO 100 film is Ilford Delta 100 developed in DD-X 1+4, but that is a different matter altogether.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_stockdale2 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 <p>Losing some acutance with a Holga might be beneficial, as high acutance works best with an optically sharp image.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 <p>Use D-76 or HC110 dilution B and develop to a density that prints (or scans easily). Increase contrast in post processing (if scanned) or use a numerically high polycontrast (or equivalent) filter if printing in darkroom.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_john_lee Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 <p>I recently processed at 35mm roll of TMax100 in HC110, 1:150, semi-stand, 40 minutes.<br> Details and sample images here: http://filmdev.org/recipe/show/8693<br> I also processed a 120 roll of TMax400 the same way, results here:<br> http://filmdev.org/recipe/show/8714<br> This tends to compress dynamic range, preserving shadow detail without overdeveloping the rest. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
collin_krabbe Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 I think i want to try stand developing. Which is better in terms of grain, hc110 or adonal/rodinal? With stand being so long, im not very worried about contrast. Also where to buy hc110/rodinal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_john_lee Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 <p>Freestyle and/or your local photo supply store.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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