TMAX 100 users needed?

[collin_krabbe]

<p>So I have some 100 iso TMAX 120 film that I will be shooting on a clear bright sunny day. It will be shot with a Holga 120 so obviously, I am limited to basically the same apertures and the same shutter speed, essentially.<br>

What I need to know is, what would be the best chemistry combination to obtain minimal grain, and quite a bit of contrast. I currently use D76, but of course I am open to other suggestions.<br>

I realize this is all subjective to the user, but all opinions are appreciated.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Collin</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Use D-76 for a longer development time. But this will cause more overexposure.</p>

[steve_mareno1]

<p>I've developed two rolls using Acufine that I bought from Freestyle Photo (my regular developer is D75 too) and I was struck by how fine grained the results were. My negs look nothing like when they come out of D76.</p>

[bgelfand]

<p>D-76 1+1 works well for me. Increas the development time slightly for more contrast.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>D-76 1:1 offers more grain, as it eliminates the solvent effect of the Sulfite in D-76. Collin asked for low grain.</p>

[jay_de_fehr]

<p>Hi Collin,<br>

Your smallest aperture is f/13 (actual), and your shutter speed is 1/100 or 1/125. Either way, your exposure should be very close to optimum for D-76. Stock or 1+1, you're not going to get much grain from TMX. I recommend you follow Kodak's processing recommendations as closely as possible, for best results. Low contrast should not be a problem on a bright, clear, sunny day. Good luck!</p>

[bgelfand]

 

<blockquote>

<p>D-76 1:1 offers more grain, as it eliminates the solvent effect of the Sulfite in D-76. Collin asked for low grain.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The term "low grain' is relative when using TMX 100. True, straight D76 will give slightly less apparent grain but will cost some acutance. I would not say 1+1 eliminates the solvent effect; it does reduce it, thus very slightly increasing the apparent grain and at the same time increasing sharpness. For my taste, I find D76 1+1 a good trade off. Others have different taste.</p>

<p>Using 120 film, unless the OP is making a mural, he will not see much grain with any reasonable dilution of D76. On the other hand, using a Holga, sharpness may not be what he wants, either.</p>

<p>My preferred combination for an ISO 100 film is Ilford Delta 100 developed in DD-X 1+4, but that is a different matter altogether.</p>

<p> </p>

[john_stockdale2]

<p>Losing some acutance with a Holga might be beneficial, as high acutance works best with an optically sharp image.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Use D-76 or HC110 dilution B and develop to a density that prints (or scans easily). Increase contrast in post processing (if scanned) or use a numerically high polycontrast (or equivalent) filter if printing in darkroom.</p>

[ho_john_lee]

<p>I recently processed at 35mm roll of TMax100 in HC110, 1:150, semi-stand, 40 minutes.<br>

Details and sample images here: http://filmdev.org/recipe/show/8693<br>

I also processed a 120 roll of TMax400 the same way, results here:<br>

http://filmdev.org/recipe/show/8714<br>

This tends to compress dynamic range, preserving shadow detail without overdeveloping the rest. </p>

 

[collin_krabbe]

I think i want to try stand developing. Which is better in terms of grain, hc110 or adonal/rodinal? With stand being so

long, im not very worried about contrast. Also where to buy hc110/rodinal?

[ho_john_lee]

<p>Freestyle and/or your local photo supply store.</p>