White lines in developed negatives

[pim_van_dorp]

<p>This morning I've developed my first roll of B&W film and most of the frames turned out fine but some of them have some vertical white lines on them, as shown in the image below:<br>

<img src="http://sdrv.ms/VMRq7t" alt="" /><br>

(<a href="http://sdrv.ms/VMRq7t">http://sdrv.ms/VMRq7t</a>)<br>

I was wondering if anyone knows what part of my development process I must alter/improve to prevent these lines from showing up.<br>

My process:<br>

-Presoak<br>

-Diafine solution A 4 minutes, at 1:30 and 3:00 2 inverses and a tap. <br>

-Diafine solution B 4 minutes, at 1:30 and 3:00 2 inverses and a tap. <br>

-Rinse <br>

-Fixer 5 minutes, constantly inverting and rotating<br>

-Final wash, Ilford method<br>

-Photo-Flo<br>

-Dry negatives</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for the help!</p>

[rnt]

<p>Looks like an agitation problem. Did you give the tank a twist as you inverted it? The streaks probably line up with the sprocket holes at the edge of the film.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Had this with another friend recently. Try re fixing them for another 5 minutes. He said he saw them vanish before his eyes.</p>

[pim_van_dorp]

<p>The streaks do indeed line up with the holes in the film. I'm not 100% sure I also twisted the tank, but I think so yes.<br /> Next time I will make sure I fully twist the tank, in any case. However, the process is correct in theory? Or do I need to increase the number of inversions/rotations?</p>

<p>I will give the refixing a try tomorrow, although I hope the problem is more fundamental so I don't have to refix every time I develop my negatives ;)</p>

 

[rnt]

<p>Bromide drag (do a search for it) is another possibility and results from inadequate agitation and may be an issue with Diafine in particular. See http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/94484-streaks-diafine.html for a discussion.</p>

<p>Yet another possibility that I hadn't thought of is that there's a light leak somewhere- either the cartridge, your camera, the bulk loader if you're bulk loading.</p>

[mjferron]

<p>This is not an agitation problem. It's most likely a fixer problem. Too short a time or weak overused solution. If the negs are worth saving do as Larry suggested and re-fix in a fresh solution. Bet they go away.</p>

[pim_van_dorp]

<p>I find it strange that it may be a fixer problem. This was the first time I used the fixer. I diluted the fixer(Rollei RXA Rapid Fixing Bath) 1+7, according to the bottle a fixing time of 4-5 min in the temperature range 18-40 degree celsuis is recommend in this case. I fixed for five minutes while constantly rotating and inverting. If it's a fixer problem, how can I prevent the streaks from showning up the next time?</p>

[pim_van_dorp]

<p>I just finished re-fixing the negatives for 5 minutes, but unfortunately the streakes are still visible. This makes me think something else causes the problem.<br>

I will develop a roll from another camera(nearly 100% sure that one has no light leaks) and see if that causes the problem.<br>

Anyhow, thanks for the tips!</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>Hi Pim,</p>

<p>You posted a positive image that means the lines on the negative are darker than the surrounds. Additionally the arrangement corresponds to the sprocket holes.</p>

<p>The facts point to light fog. Likely, this occurred during camera loading or unloading. It is wise to perform this operation in subdued light. Maybe the film was light struck during loading or unloading on the reel in darkroom. I advise double-checking your darkroom for dark integrity. Best to sit in the darkroom for 15 - 20 minutes allowing your eyes to dark-adapt. Now examine areas around doors for light leaks and plug them up as required.</p>

<p>Some have suggested agitation. I advise continuous agitation for the first 30 seconds followed by 5 seconds of agitation every 30 seconds thereafter.</p>

<p> Some suggest bromide drag. We see this when film sits motionless in the developer. Dry film swells quickly absorbing developer. In areas of high exposure, developer goes to work and quickly exhausts. In a stagnant tank, a cloud of spent developer lingers at the film's surface and blocks the inflow of fresh developer. Spent developer being heavier than its surrounds slowly drifts downward. This induces ebb currents that bring fresh developer in below the sight. Periods are printing on the edges of the film to reveal such a condition. Bromide drag produces a comma like tail attached to the periods; this is a sure sign of bromide drag.</p>

<p>Keep in mind your problem is positive density. Could be ebb currents induced by agitation issues but I think light fog. </p>

[pim_van_dorp]

<p>Alan, thanks for you extensive reply!</p>

<p>I will take all your helpful tips in consideration before developing my next roll of film. I will indeed check my dark room again.<br>

Also, the term 'agitation' is not a hundred percent clear to me. I'm not a native speaker, so I don't exactly know what you mean by agitation. Is this inverting and rotating? Or more like shaking? <br>

Anyway, I will take your advise in consideration while developing the next time.</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p>Agitation during processing is important. We accomplish by rotating the reel in the tank if your tank l has stem that allows otherwise we pick up the tank and turn it upside down and right side up, continue this inversion, over and over again for the first 30 seconds. Stop the agitation allowing the fluid to settle then intermittent agitation for 5 seconds each half minute till finished. Under agitation causes bromide drag. Excessive agitation makes ebb currents that produce flow marks. You need to be consistent in your routine.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>The technique for agitating Diafine is fairly critical, but will tolerate some variations from the manufacturer's recommendations:</p>

<ul>

<li>Part A can be agitated continuously, but every 60 seconds is good enough. Waiting 90 seconds between agitations is too long and you'll risk streaking. It should be a smooth agitation, not "shaking".</li>

<li>Part B needs careful, smooth agitation. Part B needs to interact with the residue of Part A absorbed into the emulsion. If Part B is agitated too aggressively you'll get uneven results. Use the manufacturer's recommendations - waiting 90 seconds between agitations is too long.</li>

</ul>

[andrew_brown3]

<p>Hi,<br>

'agitation' is as you say inverting and rotation and a tap or two (and not shaking!).<br>

I guess all of us have our own methods though.<br>

It looks a bit like a camera problem as the film is opened out and out of the cassette. Perhaps it's an old camera not used too often and with a film left in it, so that any tiny light leak affects just a couple of frames.</p>

<p>Andy.</p>