Bizzare results from CVS scan

[ely_name]

<p>I just developed a roll of Kodak Tri-X 400 shot on a Zenit-E SLR with a Helios 58mm lens. This is my first attempt at b&w film development and I was pleased with how the negatives seemed to turn out. However when I dropped them off at Walgreens to have them scanned on to a disk they called and told me that their scanner was unable to detect any of the frames. So I went to CVS who was able to make the scan but the results were horrendous as you can see in these images. http://www.flickr.com/photos/61115927@N02/<br>

I know that I've made some mistakes in the development process, but there's loads of detail that I can see in the negatives that just shows up as a blur in these scans. Only 2 shots seemed to turn out. The tug boat and the tall weed. Strangely they're the only shots that don't have an inexplicable vertical line down the middle. These lines are not visible on any of the negatives so I'm assuming they were left by the scanning process. <br /> Can anyone tell me what caused this disaster? Should I get it scanned somewhere else or should I just improve my technique?<br /> </p>

[jean_yves_mead]

Perhaps they had digital image correction enabled when they made the scans. Silver halide films play merry hell with such systems.

[richterjw]

<p>I think Jean-Yves may have it; looks like Digital ICE to me too.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Unless you can find a lab that has a setting for silver halide black & white (Tri-X, Plus-X, etc.) you may be better off to get a used Epson V600 (or V700) with film adapter. I have the V600 and scan my silver halide negatives at 2400 dpi with greyscale setting. </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Some of those came out quite cool, but obviously not related to the image you were trying to make.<br>

Those scanners in minilabs are optimized to do one thing well -- scan C-41 color negative film really fast at enough resolution to make a 4x6 print. Scanning B&W silver film was not a design criterion.</p>

[andylynn]

<p>That's just what it looked like the time I forgot to turn ICE off. I was convinced my scanner was broken.</p>

[bob_himmelright]

<p>Andy is right. If you tell CVS to "turn ICE off" you will get a blank stare though. There are five input options on noritsu minilabs, color negative, monochrome negative, sepia negative, reversal and black and white negative. Only black and white negative turns off ICE, monochrome and sepia are designed to make greyscale or sepia prints from either color negative film or c-41 black and white film.</p>

[hoshisato]

<p>Indeed, I had similar results when I forgot to switch the digital ICE off.<br>

I invested in an Epson V500 scanner and a Vuescan license and have been happy with the results and lack of frustration of getting my negatives properly scanned.</p>

[craig_shearman1]

<p>Ely, now that you're tackled B&W film developing, do you plan to try your hand at printing? It's easy, and you can get better results than with scanning.</p>

[ely_name]

<p>Thanks everyone for clarifying the situation. I went back to CVS and told them about turning off their digital image correction. It appears their scanner either doesn't have that option or the employees simply couldn't find it, because the results looked the same on their monitor. They were actually asking me how to work the machine. I'm going to mail in my film to a professional lab for slightly more money, just until I buy a decent flatbed scanner.</p>

<p> Craig Shearman, I certainly hope to get into printing one day soon. I'd like to get more proficient with my workflow and gain a little more experience before setting up my own darkroom. Also raise a little money for the enlarger and numerous other supplies I'll need. </p>

[andylynn]

<p>Ask if they have a mode call "Black and white" - some minilabs have that and it turns off IR correction.</p>