szrimaging Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>So, I have been framing 13" x 19" paper (multiple companies and types) on 18"x24" foamcore using T-mounts, and they all seem to be getting wavy. I can't really afford a dry mount press, nor do I have room for one, so what are my options outside of paying too much at a framers. Very low volume at the moment. Kool-Tac or Artcare Restore seem like the best ideas?</p> <p>FYI, I live in northern Michigan, and humidty is all over the map, which seems to be the biggest issue with the T-mounts. And I have had photo corners pop out as the print expands and shrinks (could have used too small of corners though. Actual print is 12"x18" which gives room for decent sized corners.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertChura Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>If you have an normal iron you can dry mount prints. Just iron using an extra mount board to distribute the heat.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
szrimaging Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>Well, that would be the same way I have to do the Kool-Tack or Artcare Resortoe, so yes, I guess dry mounting isn't out. Guess I need to see which is cheaper (not worried about archival).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mukul_dube Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>Dry mounting is not easy in humid areas, because print and mount board need to be absolutely dry before they are bonded together. In India I've used a lot of what we call "rubber solution". This is a purer form of the stuff used to repair bicycle tyre punctures. Spread evenly (and thinly) on both surfaces, allow ten minutes or so to become tacky-dry, then stick together. I can explain further if you're interested.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
szrimaging Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>Well, we are usually a medium humidity area. Even though we are surrounded by lakes. I think the bigger problem is that I am framing in medium humidity and pieces are hanging in low humidity (for example a humidity controlled gallery and parent's basement with a dehumidifier). Maybe a dehumidifier in my framing environment would help?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mukul_dube Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>Zach, I don't think a well mounted print gives trouble owing to changes in humidity. But if you dry mount a damp print or mount, problems are certain. We used to shove print and mount into the press separately, to dry them, before putting them in together with mounting tissue.<br> Here's a bit from the description of <strong>rubber cement</strong> in Wikipedia: "Because rubber cements are designed to peel easily or rub off without damaging the paper or leaving any trace of adhesive behind, they are ideal for use in paste-up work...".</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles_Webster Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>Most rubber cements contain sulfur compounds which react strongly with the paper, causing it to discolor rapidly. I have been trying to restore a bunch of prints my father glued to mount board with rubber cement. Not pretty!<br> I suggest you avoid it if you can. Have you looked at 3M Photo Mount Spray. It's easy to use and I haven't experienced problems with bubbles or curling. But it's not "archival" nor is it reversible.<br> <Chas></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mukul_dube Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 <p>Rubber cements are made for different uses. Their constituents vary. Some contain acetone, others contain toluene: and so on. All do not involve vulcanisation. The variety sold in art supply shops is formulated for mounting art work. I have prints which were mounted as far back as the early 1970s but are still in good shape. I agree that it is risky to use a shoe repair variety for mounting photographic prints: but labels usually list constituents.<br> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_cement</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricklavoie Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 <p>i make sure the print is dry (take 24-48hre normally) then i use a 3M spray can glue to mount them on cardboard or other heavy material.</p> <p>I dont do this for archival just for workshop presentation.. double side archival tape work pretty well also.</p> <p>But honestly, all the old print i mount that way (like 6-7years ago) are still in perfect condition.. maybe not in 30years.. but for now, they serve there purpose ; )</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_Lookingbill Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 <p>I get the same wavy prints since it's so humid down here in Texas, so I started mounting my 8x10 inkjet prints in those cheap Walmart floating box type frames between two pieces of glass. Works like a charm.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_k1 Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 <p>I have found the "waves" and "ripples" found on digital prints quite different from those found on traditional prints. And for obvious reasons, and need to be remedied differently.</p> <p>Questions for OP:</p> <p>- What kind of paper?</p> <p>- Where are the waves, and what do they look like? An image would help.</p> <p>- Does the mat window cover the print's edges, or expose them?</p> <p>- Are the prints wavy before being mounted? If so, why would t-mounts be an issue?</p> <p>As an aside, entering OP's site gets "Nothing Found".</p> <p>http://www.szrimaging.com/</p> <p>Not a good sign for someone offering Web Development service.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
szrimaging Posted December 26, 2011 Author Share Posted December 26, 2011 <p>Yeah, I have been lazy on my own site. Have plenty of freelance work (I only take on a couple of clients a year), but work a 9-5 M-F, so work is not an issue. Main reason it's DOA is because branding yourself is the hardest concept to come up with, and between work, family and everything else, I just don't have time for it.</p> <p>As for the paper, it has happened with Hahnenmule Photo Rag Pearl and Ilfrod Pearl. Paper is 13x19 with window openings that are 12x18 (well, smaller by the usual overlap, but you get the idea). Prints are framed a few days after printing, so the inks should be dry and "outgassed" (not sure if they do, just what I was told in school). Prints are flat before mounting, and waves appear a week+ after they have been framed.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_k1 Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 <p>Glad I asked the questions first before offering any suggestions. I haven't experienced anything like what you described, and can't help.</p> <p>My inkjet prints on matte paper did have ripples on them before matting and framing. No amount of drying or ironing could get rid of them. Then I came across an ingenious solution posted online that uses no material and takes (almost) no effort. Problem solved.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_Lookingbill Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 <blockquote> <p>Then I came across an ingenious solution posted online that uses no material and takes (almost) no effort. Problem solved.</p> </blockquote> <p>And that solution is...?</p> <p><a name="pagebottom"></a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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