120 Tri-X

[richard_wick]

<p>I am about to take my medium format SLR out of hibernation, and run a few rolls of Tri-X at 200 through her. I plan to develop in HC110. I see on the MDC that using dilution B it gives a time of 4.25, and, for more sgitation than I usually use, it gives a time of 5.75...longer development with MORE agitation?..Is that right?..it seems a little backward to me.., but it's been a long time since I have developed 120..</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>I find Dilution B to strong and active. I double the dilution and we call this dilution H. To do this also double the time too. So 9 minutes Dilution H. Also Dilution E is 6.5 minutes. Yes any times below 5 minutes are not good as you can get uneven development and even 5 seconds off can cause problems let alone degree in your thermometer.</p>

<p>http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</p>

<p> This to may help you if you have questions about HC-110 and dilutions.</p>

[richard_wick]

<p>Thanks, Larry....I will try this...also with my 35mm..I have used Dilution B with 35mm with mixed results.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Hey Richard I have used HC-110 for 40 years.... It stays the same films change. You are very welcome and helping is what we try to do here....</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>You don't say what MF camera you have, but I have always found it worthwhile to dry run a body that has been stored for a long time - take it through its paces, so to speak.</p>

<p>Is HC-110 some kind of D-76? [jes' jokin']</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>LOL JDM well In the end it is some kind of D-76.. It depends on how you dilute and agitate it.. :) Also god advice for any camera that has not been used in a time.... I go by the 100+ click rule... or more. 8 at every shutter speed... More for the slow speeds...</p>

[richard_wick]

<p>It is a Kowa super 66..one of the last ones made, about 1973 or so. I have put it through some "dry runs" and it seems to be in good working order. When I bought it, it was nearly new and I have obsessively babied it since. I know the earlier models have had some shutter problems, but, this one "sounds" fine. The only thing is the foam seals on the backs...there is a guy here in Minneapolis who will replace the foam, for about $100 per back, but, electric tape around the outside works well too..and a damn sight cheaper!..thanks all..for your input..</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Go to Hobby Lobby and get some sticky foam about $2.00 to do 3000 cameras... :)</p>

 

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>There use to be a seller or two selling foam seal kits on ebay for reasonable prices.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I know the earlier models have had some shutter problems, but, this one "sounds" fine.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Quit guessing, position the shutter in question so that you can see the shutter either from the front or rear, aperture wide open, and a clock or wrist watch second hand at the same time. A sweep second hand is best but a step second hand will work (quartz type clock).<br>

Set the shutter to the 1 second setting. Cock the shutter and just as the second hand reaches a second mark trip the shutter. Observe the shutter and the clock and see where the second hand is when the shutter just fully closes. The second hand width either side of the next second mark from the one where the shutter was tripped is OK. Set the shutter to 1/2 second and repeat. The shutter should close just as the second hand reaches the mid point between the second marks, 1/2 the width of the second hand either side of the mid point is acceptable. Any faster or slower the shutter needs servicing. All other speeds should progressively get faster as you go up the speed scale and get slower as you come back down the scale.</p>

<p>A shutter that is slow the first to three fires then works at correct speed needs servicing. </p>

<p>While this is not a technically accurate test it will tell you if the shutter is within a half stop of correct.</p>

<p> </p>