ISO 25 Medium Format Developer

[schonphotography]

<p>Hello,<br>

After a recent trip out to Wyoming I've found myself with many rolls of slow 120 film that need to be developed. My original plan was to ship them off to Dwayne's photo (they've been really good in the past), but I was wondering if anyone can recommend a really good developer for Efke 25 (120). I'm aiming for the finest grain/highest resolving results, but haven't found one that I really like just yet.<br>

On a side note, has anyone used Adox CMS 20 film yet?</p>

<p>Thanks for all your input</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>If you mean developer as in the chemical then I have used everything from Acufine-Xtol on that film. If you mean developer as in a photo processing place I can't help you there as with B&W I do all my own.</p>

 

[peterbcarter]

<p>Most people that I know shoot this stuff to dev it themselves. It tends to be a "quality or bust" kind of niche.</p>

<p>Where are you? This will likely have to go to a local pro shop, if available. This info would allow more people to help you.</p>

<p>Going forward, I would research what your preferred service and develop before picking a film to use.</p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>D-76 (or its equivalent) stock solution should be about the best combination of fine grain and speed without too much solvent effect (grain shaving, IIRC) of fine grain developers like Microdol-X. I think you could use HC110 dilution B, but I don't remember the time. You should check with various labs to see what developer they use. I would suggest investing in an inexpensive tank and some chemicals, but with important film it's probably not the best time to learn. </p>

[jay_de_fehr]

<p>Hypercat would be my first choice, but 510-Pyro or GSD-10 would also be good choices. None of these developers are commercially available, so might not be viable choices for you. </p>

[leighb]

<p>I have no experience with the Efke film, but for what it's worth...</p>

<p>For many many years I developed 120 Agfapan 25 in Rodinal 1:50 with outstanding results.</p>

<p>Although Rodinal is no longer available under that name, the same formula is made under other names.<br /> Plenty of info about that here and elsewhere.</p>

<p>If you want a lab, try Dodge Chrome in Silver Spring, Maryland http://www.dodgechrome.com/photofilm/wetlab.html<br /> They use Ilfotec DD which would be a good choice for that film. Excellent commercial lab.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

[pc_b]

<p>Efke/Adox25 is a rather contrasty emulsion (little latitude); which also means that 1min too long or too short and your negs will give you a hard time.<br>

I'd go Xtol 1+2 or Adox ATM49 1+2 dilution. D-76 1+3 only if you don't find anything else. Rodinal at 1+99/1+199 could work but you will probably mis-develop the first roll.<br>

Good luck!</p>

[schonphotography]

<p>I'm in the Philadelphia area, which is known for its lack of pro shops. If I don't end up developing it at home I'll probably ship it off to any of the above recommendations.</p>

[rustys pics]

<p>Rodinal 1:50 works beautifully with EFKE 25. 1:100 dilution works even better. It's bascially Stand Development but really tames the contrast. See that photo of mine attached to every post I make on Photo.net? Efke 25 in Rodinal 1:100.<br>

I think Freestyle is selling Rodinal under the name "Adonal" now. Apparently after 110 years some schmuck at AGFA decided they couldn't call it "Rodinal" anymore. A bottle will last you for years....</p>

 

[leighb]

<blockquote>

<p>Apparently after 110 years some schmuck at AGFA decided they couldn't call it "Rodinal" anymore.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Nope, some jerk named Minakais, John decided to trademark the name in the USA.<br>

Have no clue who me might be. Apparently trying to rip off the manufacturer.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[larrydressler]

<p>I am another that will say 1-100 one hour 20C full stand With Rodinal/Whatever they want to call it. 30 seconds to one minute initial agitation And maybe one inversion at 30 minutes.</p>

[rustys pics]

<p>A Pox on the Fool who De-Branded Rodinal! That's as bad as Disney post-copyrighting Victor Hugo's book title "The Hunchback of Notre Dame".</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Same stuff.... Just learn the new names in the countries you live in.... LOL Disney did it legal in France..... LOL You all could do it to many things.... When Agfa went tits up they sold the name not the copyrights.</p>

 

[leighb]

<blockquote>

<p>When Agfa went tits up they sold the name not the copyrights.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It's a trademark issue, not a copyright issue.</p>

<p>Two totally separate and unrelated subjects, administered by different government agencies.</p>

<p>Copyrights are handled by the Copyright Office in the Library of Congress. http://www.copyright.gov<br /> Trademarks are handled by the Patent and Trademark Office of the Department of Commerce. http://www.uspto.gov</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>I am corrected and glad for it..... You have my thanks...</p>

[john_green19]

<p>I understand Neofin Blue also works excellent. It is available from Freestyle Sales Co In Hollywood, (so is the film) here is a link offering development times for Efke Films http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Efke+50&Developer=&mdc=Search<br>

Efke iso 50 time is recommended for Tetenol Neofin Blue Stock Solution at 8 Min for 120 and 9 Min for 35mm.<br>

I have been told that Ansel Adams used a dual bath Neofin Blue recipe for his B&W negatives.</p>