Starting out

[dan_mays1]

<p>At the moment, I just don't have the cash to get more than I have. I have a Nikon D7000 and a 50mm lens. To get some $$ for more lenses and a flash I was thinking I might offer to do Senior Portraits and Family Christmas pics. I would offer a free sitting fee and only charge for photos they want. I was wanting to know if anyone has any tips that might help since I have limited equipment. Should I only work outside since indoor lighting can be inconsistant? Should a 50mm lens be good enought to get some good shots (50mm on a DX camera..so more like a 75mm)? I am choosing these kind of shoots because there isn't a chance of "missing the shot". I have been offered event shoots, but I don't want to be that photographer that missed the shot because I don't have the right lens or a flash. I also know some photographers get upset that an "amature" would charge at all. However, I will always be an "amature" if I can't get better equipment and editing software. This is why I would only charge for photos they would want.</p>

[john_deerfield]

<blockquote>

<p> I also know some photographers get upset that an ["amateur"] would charge at all.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>I certainly can't speak for all professionals, only myself. But what bothers me is that you haven't spent any time or money <em>learning</em> the craft and yet you want to make money at it. You admittedly know nothing about lighting, and that's a pretty key ingredient. I know of one "Rock Star" wedding photography that took thousands of pictures of their tree in the backyard so that they could <em>learn </em>photography. Simply buying a camera and lens and then expecting to obtain professional results, at least in so much as you can make enough <em>profit</em> to afford to buy yourself some more gear just because you want more gear and already spent money on a camera an lens... yeah, I find that a bit unsettlingly. Do you want to use available light, then learn lighting. And here's another kicker: you want to use flash, learn lighting. The principles of lighting don't change. Take pictures of trees, or even an apple on the table. But learn first. The first book to read is "Light: the Science and Magic". I think there might be some Dean Collins videos on uTube and he was a master of lighting. Strobist.com can teach you a bit about off-camera flash and Neil Van Niekerk's web bog teach you about balancing flash and ambient. Google shooting with available light. And all of that (besides buying the book) can be done for free. So if you learn the craft first, before running out and charging people because you want to buy more gear... we (I), might be less upset.</p>

 

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>As a fellow amateur, I do agree wholeheartedly with John. The key for me is in this sentence:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>However, I will always be an "amature" if I can't get better equipment and editing software.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Uhm no. Until you learn what the photography business is about, how to run such a business and how to deliver a value proposition to your customers, and keep their business, you will stay an amateur. And many of us are perfectly happy being amateur. Gear, editing software has got nothing to do with running a viable business.<br>

Frankly, if you got a D7000 and only one (rather impractical) lens, then you spent too much on the body and far too little on lenses and lighting if you really want this to be a business.</p>

[Mattman944]

+1 what John said. Also read some books on posing. Concentrate on existing lighting for now.

[dan_mays1]

<p>I must not have been clear in my post. I have spend a good deal of time learning the craft and I have studied lighting a good deal. I know you can take pictures indoors and adjust the white balance, etc. I actually took photography in college for 2 yrs before moving to Business. However, that was 19 yrs ago. I had a camera and know all about aperture, shutter speed, ISO...etc. However, I have been out of the game for a while and have recently been getting back into photography after having 4 kids and getting laid off from my tech job. A job I never wanted in the first place, but it paid well and supported the family. Since getting ..back..into it, I have taken tons of pictures for free for strangers and family and just given them the images free in exchange for a model release. I am fine with using "available light" and do so regularly. I was just trying to get an opinion from people who have been doing more than I if maybe to get best quality might be to do some morning or late afternoon shots/shade shots outside as aposed to going into peoples homes without knowing the lighting before I get there. As I mentioned, I don't have lightroom or photoshop at the moment so I can't do major editing to the photos. I also mentioned that I would be do all sittings for free. I would not charge them to take photos. I also didn't mention, I am not talking about charging $100 a photo or anything like that. I was talking $10 or so for photos they like. Again...I have been taking photos for over a year now since ...getting back into photography. I have had people (strangers) love their photos. I know I am still learning and never plan to stop learning. However, I can only do it so long for free with what I have. It was a little learning curve on the digital DSLR vs Film...but the concepts haven't changed since when I was in college. However, I need to upgrade my equipment to get further into my development. I apologize if I have upset people with the question and a little sorry that I posted it now. I was just looking for constructive information to help me move further. I have taken courses in the last year and have purchased several books on lighting but feel I get my best shots outside witth what I have. I bought the lens I got because it was a good portrait lens to use on my kids and got an amazing deal on the D7000. </p>

[phule]

<p>Dan,</p>

<p>I don't think you should be sorry for posting this question but it was a bit lacking in detail. I'm glad you posted the follow-up.</p>

<p>If people are willing to pay you for your photography and if you're able to satisfy the customer, then you don't need anyone's approval to proceed. Of course, there's always room for improvement. And you can <em>rent </em>equipment instead of buying it. There are a number of very reputable online rental places or, if you live in a large enough city, you can rent locally.</p>

<p>For portraits, outdoors with a large piece of white foam core (a few bucks at the hobby store) as a reflector can go a long way with the right location and the right lighting. Practicing with your kids would be a great way to figure out which locations work best and also, how to work in challenging conditions. I don't think going into an unknown indoor location without supplemental lighting is going to be a recipe for success. But hey, sometimes a shop light and a white wall is all you need! </p>

<p>The nice thing about digital is that you can practice and test and practice some more for the cost of your time and a little battery power.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>Working outside only is up to you. Since the D7000 (I'm told) is pretty good with high ISO, there are nice opportunities indoors for portraits with just window light, plus there are some homes with lots of daylight coming in.</p>

<p>Also, for very low power flash fill, the on camera flash can actually be fine in some situations. Less so for vertical shots, but as long as you don't see the nasty side shadow, meaning the flash is very subtle, the photos can still look nice but still benefit from fill.</p>

<p>A 50mm (75-80mm) lens gives the traditional focal length of choice for portraits--mostly 1/2 lengths and closer, but it can also work fine for full lengths. Just be aware of the DOF you are getting and how that changes with subject distance.</p>

<p>I suggest that the next thing you get would be a Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 or Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 (the new one). Or, if you don't like zooms, a 24mm lens (approx. 36mm full frame). With this and the 50mm, you can cover many, many things, including full length group portraits.</p>

[mukul_dube]

<p>With the lens you have, portraits are a good idea. The other kind may not be so easy. Your "business model" is also sound. I'd suggest lighting other than flash, perhaps with a simple reflector when there is a shadow side to be balanced.</p>

[hjoseph7]

<p>Visit a photography studio that specializes in Senior Potrait photography and see what they have to offer. It looks like you have the skills to become a good portrait photographer. The hard part is going to be trying to compete with the Mega Companies that offer these services.</p>

<p>Usually what happens is that a Studio bids on a contract to photograph Seniors at a particular school. Once that contract is signed then it is the responsibility of the studio, or the photographer to take the pictures whether rain or shine. The contract usually stipulates whether the pictures are going to be taken indoors, but sometimes there is enough flexibility in the contract that the pictures can be taken outdoors if the weather permits as well as indoors.</p>

<p>Usually dates ranges are set for when the Seniors can come in and have their pictures taken. The parents often come along with them. Unlike pre-school and middle-school photography which is done right at the school, most Senior photographs are done in a Studio environment.</p>

<p>What you can offer is an alternative to the cookie-cutter style of the Studio, but you are going to need some pretty strong advertisng to do that. If you already have an established studio then you can just offer it as part of your services, just like passport photos, or even On-line dating photos, but if you are not established it is going to take some work to convince the parents to even step foot inside your home.</p>

<p>What will you be offering that can compete with a well established Senior portrait studio. Savings, most parents are willing to pay top-dollar for their little 'darlings' that just graduated out of school. Style, convenience, creativity ? senior portraits come in differing packages which include more than one photo and format what kind of packages will you be offering ?</p>

<p>I don't mean to be negative, but you are going to need a strong 'Business Plan' if you don't already have one. Then there is the legal stuff and the paper work. Can you accept credit cards, do you have a business bank account, do you have a lawyer if things get ugly. How about advertisement, letter heads, envelopes, Model release forms, business license, the IRS and all the stuff you need to make your business run smoothly.</p>

<p>I'm not saying it can't be done, but getting over that first important hurdle is going to be a royal PITA. I would concentrate on getting a good pair of strobes and practice your lighting and business skills, because you are going to need them sooner or later . Take as many professional looking portraits as you can while you are honing your skills. Then you can think about offering Senior portraits IMHO.</p>

[john_deerfield]

<p>I am not sure the OP has a "business plan" so much as idea to hopefully generate some income. In any event, my advice hasn't really changed: learn the craft. Since everyone is on board with window lighting, lets start there. Lets say you have a nice large bay window to work with. Now a northern window is best. Why? It isn't possible to get direct light through a northern window. At least not in the northern hemisphere. This simply means that northern window light is <em>always</em> diffused. Now there is a difference between <em>soft</em> light and <em>diffused</em> light but as this is a forum and not a book, I will leave it at that. If you don't have a northern window light to work with, now what? Well one of the reasons we like northern window light is that it is diffused. Diffused light has less contrast. Controlling contrast is what you want to to for portrait photography (well any photography really). Now a professional photographer probably won't put a person <em>right next</em> to a window. Why? <em>Higher</em> contrast. Simply put, if you meter the light at the window vs the light <em>away</em> from the window (the dark(er) side of the room), you will have your contrast ratio. For argument's sake, let's say the light at the window meters @ f/5.6 (keeping it easy) and the meter reading facing away from the window is f/2.8... well that is 2 stops difference. Now two stops is 4 times more light so that is a contrast ratio of 4 to 1. That is pretty high for most portrait work (but then again, maybe that is the look you need/desire). You could use something to bounce light back onto the subject from the shadow side: a reflector, foam core, a bed sheet, whatever... but the point is <em>controlling the contrast</em>. Now what if you don't have any of that? Now what? How about moving the subject a few feet <em>away</em> from the window? If you meter the light now, you might get f/4 on the "light" side. The shadow side would not have changed (f/2.8). Only now you only have twice as much light on one side, a 2:1 ratio. Not bad for portraits. The point is that the contrast ratio isn't going to be identical from environment to environment and it is the <em>photographer's</em> job to know what they are doing and how to control it for the look they want. And that is just contrast. Simply put, window light is, well, light. In general, light has 4 characteristic: quality, direction, color, and intensity. All of these play a factor whether you are using window light, a flash, or any light source. </p>

[jon_robert]

<p>You have presented your case and here is the answer.<br /> You can confidently hire out your services for anything that you can freely back up or get closer anytime you want. This in effect simulates any focal length you need or want.<br /> If you cannot freely move closer or farther away then you better think twice about taking the job. A wedding with only a 50mm (75mm) is probably not a good idea unless the customer is desperate to save money and will be happy just to have photos for a small fee.</p>

[lisae]

<p>Dan, there are a lot of people who started in portraiture doing what you are doing. In my (very humble and inexperienced) opinion, you have what you need to get started. Perhaps you could visit with someone at the local Small Business Administration to help you think about your next steps. </p>

<p>Judging from the market in my area, one thing you may need is post-processing software. I see very few straight portraits - they are almost always processed in some sort of trendy style.</p>

<p>P.S. A number of the portrait photographers in my area offer "mini-sessions" at a lower cost. These consist of a 30 minute on-location portrait session with pictures on a CD/DVD. That might be a good way for you to start. </p>

[richardsnow]

<p>Well, I'll throw in my two cents here...</p>

<p>First, Senior Portraits can be a good source of income if you can book enough sittings and charge enough for your finished product.</p>

<p>I personally have been enjoying portraiture much more than I ever thought I would and only through practice have I come to appreciate what makes a good portrait and what makes a portrait seem flat and lifeless.</p>

<p>Here's a few things you need to consider before jumping in to Senior Portraiture:<br>

1) You likely won't make money off of prints...offer something different that will attract business. My current favorite is a Senior memory book.<br>

2) When photographing a high school senior you need them to express who they are. This may involve a prop or two, a special place, or possibly a specific outfit.<br>

3) Giving away "free studio time" or a "free sitting" will cost you more than you realize. You'll spend a few hours, not to mention travel time and editing time, and you MIGHT get a few print orders. How much is YOUR time worth? I know mine is worth more than a minimum wage, which is more than you'll likely make if you give away free sittings. My experience with free sittings is that the clients won't value you as a photographer, (and won't buy prints), so all you'll end up with a nice portfolio and no print orders.<br>

4) This time of year, shooting early mornings and late evenings are the most conducive to quality ambient light outdoors. I'm in Maine, so this translates to about 4:30 - 6:30 am and 7:00 - 8:30 pm...no high school senior I know wants to be up and out for photos at 4:30am, so this limits you to the evening sessions. another issue that may arise is that most seniors in high school have some sort of summer job...and a late client = no photo shoot if you have no supplement to ambient/natural lighting. Again, a client will take you and your time more seriously if there is money on the line and a contract in place.<br>

5) Depending on your area, some schools contract with a studio and will not allow a photo from any other source in the yearbook/annual. Find out how your local schools do business and adhere to it. If they will allow you to shoot for the yearbook, do so and be responsible for making sure the proper photo is submitted to the school for the yearbook in the proper size/format. This may sound like a small thing to do, but making the client responsible is unprofessional and may allow for the infamous "NO PHOTO AVAILABLE" in their Senior yearbook.</p>

<p>Hope this helps,</p>

<p>RS</p>

[dan_south]

I agree with John Deerfield 1000 percent.

 

I just bought a skillet. I've never cooked anything before, but I think I might open a restaurant. In that coontext the

approach kind of silly, doesn't it?

 

Practice. Take classes. Assist. Can't pay the bills without the skills.