Rodinal 1:100 stand-development in plastic tank?

[michal_pedziwiatr]

<p>Hi, </p>

<p>I'm going to try and develop one of my tri-x films using Rodinal 1:100 stand-development for 1 hour. <br>

The problem is I have plastic tank and read many posts about uneven development in edges. <br>

Is it always true? Or maybe I can somehow avoid this problem without switching to steel reels? Presoak, special agitation etc?<br>

I use Kaiser tank which is really similar to Paterson. <br>

I would like to hear some confirmed methods becaus I don't want to destroy the negative. </p>

<p>Thanks for your help</p>

<p>Michael</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>I use a plastic tank and I have no problems.</p>

[derek_kennedy]

<p>I too use the plastic (Paterson) tank for stand development with no problems</p>

[SCL]

<p>I have always used plastic tanks (at least since around 1970), and never had a problem, although my tank is a Rondinax and does require periodic agitation for any developer.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>It's fine with 35mm. With medium format I occasionally got some uneven development that encroached into the exposed area of the frame due to the much narrower rebate. When I use stand development with MF films I'll use stainless. Otherwise my Paterson plastic reels work okay with 35mm.</p>

[michal_pedziwiatr]

<p>So you don't rather advice to use plastic tanks when developing MF films? <br>

What about presoaking?</p>

[lambertus_s._hofstra1]

<p>Hi,<br>

I do MF in Rodinal 1:100 most of the time, in Paterson tanks. Although I dare not use them in a three-reel tank I've never had any problem in a one-reel tank. I must admit that I often can't keep myself from one inversion at 30 minutes though.<br>

Good luck, and why not shoot and develop a test film first?</p>

 

[lambertus_s._hofstra1]

<p>P.S. I don't use a presoak. I don't see the use, on account of this being a very dilute developer (has to be evenly mixed ofcourse) and a long developing time.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>I have had no problems with 120 film I use Paterson and generic plastic tanks and reels. I always add more developer solution than the roll needs by about 2-3 oz.</p>

[jay_de_fehr]

<p>If your film is important, a test of your intended process is reasonable. Lambertus's mid-point agitation is a good idea, as it might prevent development defects without sacrificing the effects of stand development. The best practice is to test for the minimum required agitation, but that can vary with film, developer, and even with image. Good luck!</p>

[nigeljohnwade]

<p>I'm with Lambertus, I have had this problem occur infrequently and do a mild inversion around 30 mins</p>

[andrew_murdoch1]

<p>I have been doing 120 Tri-X in Rodinal 1+100 in my Paterson plastic tank/reel and not seen any problems on the edges.<br>

I have done one film and one test cutting with 1+100 for an hour, inverted once at the start and swirled like a brandy glass at 30 min and the film was under developed. I am currently experimenting and researching dev strengths, times and techniques.</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Andrew I agitate for the first full minute then sit it down at 30 if I am worried as of the type of film I give it 1 full inversion and maybe a cocktail swirl. I think you took Stand a little to literally.</p>

[andrew_murdoch1]

<p>I read the 1 inversion then swirl at half time technique on another forum but I do believe it was for 35mm rather than 120.<br /> I'm also pushing to iso 800 by the way.<br /> I have done a test roll and cut it up and tried doing 1+100 for 1 hour, a few inversions every 5 minutes for the 1st 20 then every minute for the last 5. This was a recommendation given to me by one of the technicians at my uni. I have also tried 1+50, invert stand and swirl at half time for an hour and 1+100, invert stand and swirl at half time for 2 hours.<br /> All the negs look pretty similar but I have yet to print from them. Not sure my untrained eye will be able to see the difference anyway!</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>I call 1-100 Lazy Diafine but even Diafine has different times for some films. Also over 1 hour if you just sit it down the temp is free to rise and fall. I have pushed with Rodinal 1-100 stand but only Tri-X. I many times even pull it a stop depending on the film. APX 400 is one that hates full speed. Anyhoo I find some films box speed only need 45 minutes. Like some things Tri-X is dependable at 800 semi stand 2 hours one inversion at 30 minutes 3 at one hour and one at an hour and 30 minutes.</p>

[andrew_murdoch1]

<p>I'll give that agitation regime a try. Thanks.<br>

Re the temperature, it was my belief that Rodinal was rather unaffected by temperature or at least a lot less affected by it than the usual ID11 etc.</p>

[joe_bramblett]

<p>I did four rolls last week in R09 One Shot at 1:100, 90 minute stand, two in a plastic tank and two in stainless, and I'd have to say that the only slight issue was that the top roll in the plastic tank was a bit underdeveloped. Still fine for scanning, though.</p>

[andrew_murdoch1]

<p>Did a roll with Larry's agitation schedule last night and unfortunatley I've managed to get a light leak somewhere along the way so half the film was ruined but what didn't get wrecked looks good.<br>

Might get a chance to do some prints tomorrow.</p>