AF body for manual lenses

[igord]

<p>Hi All,<br>

I would like to get an advice for the Nikon AF body that would be used with manual AI lenses.<br>

What I am looking for is AF, light (that's important), bright screen, dependable body, that would give me AF confirmation with AI and AIS lenses if this is possible.<br>

Nothing hi-tech is needed, just a camera I could use mainly for portraits using in manual or A mode.<br>

I am not familiar with Nikon bodies so I kindly ask you for advice.</p>

[ShunCheung]

<p>Are you talking about film SLRs with AF?</p>

<p>Any one among N8008/F801, N90/F90 and F100 should work quite well. Those were well built but not super light. I was also going to suggest the FE2; that has the A mode but no AF.</p>

[igord]

<p>Thanks, yes I talk about film, sorry.</p>

[charles_sharp2]

<p>Igor<br>

Check out the nikon F4. It has analog controls simialr to the older film cameras and also is the only Film Nikon that can Matrix meter with the older lenses.<br>

Chuck</p>

[igord]

<p>Chuck, thanks for suggestion, F4 weigths... 1200g! It is way too heavy. What about f-501 cameras? Are they any good?</p>

[david_carroll4]

<p>Look for an F100 - arguably the most advanced and capable AF film body outside the F5-F6. Body weighs ~780g without batteries. Bright and informative VF inc. focus confirmation with MF lenses, multiple metering modes.</p>

[jean_yves_mead]

Don't discount the manual-focus Nikons. With the right focussing screen they're very quick and easy to

focus accurately.

[ShunCheung]

<p>I assume that the OP wants to use both AF and manual-focus lenses. Therefore he is looking for compatibility with both.</p>

<p>I should point out that among the 3 bodies I mentioned:</p>

<ol>

<li>The N8008/F801 (and the later improved N8008S/F801S) can only AF with AF and AF-D type lenses. They cannot drive AF-S and AF-I lenses with internal AF motor; those lenses become manual focus on the F801 series.</li>

<li>The N90/F90 (and the subsequent N90S/F90X) can drive AF-S, but they are not compatible with the VR feature.</li>

<li>Among those three, the F100 has the best compatibilities as David Carrell points out, and of course the F100 typically costs more in the used market. They are fully compatible with all types of AF lenses as well as VR. Its main limitation is DX lenses for obvious reasons.</li>

</ol>

[red_buckner]

<p>The N90s is a bargain now. I just bought an extra body for $35. It is great with manual lenses and AF also. A tough, accurate professional machine. </p>

[Michael R Freeman]

<blockquote>

<p><em>"What I am looking for <strong>is AF</strong>, light (that's important), bright screen, dependable body, that would give me<strong> AF confirmation</strong> with AI and AIS lenses"</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Just to clarify, no Nikon body will <strong>autofocus</strong> when used with manual Ai/AiS lenses, but all will give <strong>manual focus confirmation</strong> via the autofocus rangefinder (i.e. the "green dot").</p>

<p>N2020/F-501, N6006/F-601, N8008(s)/F-801(s), N70, N90(s)/F90(x), F100, F4(s), F5, F6</p>

<p>All of the above will meter (center-weighted and spot metering) with manual focus Ai/AiS lenses in A and M exposure modes, and all provide focus confirmation.</p>

<p>Without a doubt the "most bang for the buck" is the F100, with a truly excellent viewfinder.</p>

<p>If you want dirt cheap, then look for a N8008(s). It's not unusual to see these sell for around $25 or less. It was the top of the line prosumer body when the F4 was first introduced, and many pros used it for a backup or primary body. For a little more money, check out the N90(s).</p>

<p>The F-501 (N2020) is pretty ancient as fas as autofocus film bodies go (Nikon's first autofocus body). It does have a pretty decent viewfinder, but if you want a body exclusively for Ai/AiS manual focus lenses it would probably make more sense to look for the companion manual focus F-301/N2000 (same body without the autofocus or confirmation dot, and with a split-image focusing screen). Given the age of these two models and the fact they were built for the consumer market, dependability might not be their strong suit. Dirt cheap though.</p>

<p>The N6006/F-601 is very prone to failure of the film back latch. Nothing that gaffers tape won't fix, but I think they all will fail eventually.</p>

<p>The N70 has a very unique "Star Wars" user interface that you will either love or hate.</p>

<p> </p>

[igord]

<p>Thanks for your answers, I will check all these models. I know I will have no AF with AI lenses, I just would like to have focus confirmation. I am Canon and Olympus user and think about going Nikon or Pentax at least with film photography just because I could use 40/45 mm prime lens which is around 42 mm I constanly set with zoom as it gives me more then less vertical angle of 28 mm lens in vertical shots (Canon haven't produced 40 lens except TS45 which I don't need). This is bit complicated but important to me ;)</p>

[steve_levine]

<p>Without question the 8008S is a great manual focus/AF body. It has a built in motor drive, power rewind, a multi functioning meter 2nd to none (spot, averaging, matrix etc), and it takes flash to a new dimension.</p>

<p>It's AF speed was F4 vintage and was woefully behind Canon's AF speeds at that time. But as a manual focus camera it can't be beat. I used 8008S's at weddings for several years, and they never let me down. And, they use 4 garden variety, sold everywhere, AA batteries.</p>

[igord]

<p>Shun, Michael - thanks for your detailed information. Also a big muchas gracias for other confirming comments. I checked prices and all these cameras are very cheap. Have to think it over somehow.</p>

[ShunCheung]

<p>Igor, if you can afford the F100, I would get that since it is the most recent model and has the most compatibility. The F801/N8008 is ok if you only use manual-focus lenses on it. Since most modern AF lenses are now AF-S and the F801 cannot drive them, it is pretty much a useless camera in these days if you need AF.</p>

[photo5]

<p>F100. There is really no other competition in the same price range. Usually available for less than $200 in good working condition on ebay. I was lucky to score a mint one for $150 a couple years ago. I first bought a used F100 in 2002 for $700 on ebay and later sold it for the same amount.</p>

[andylynn]

<p>I flippin' love the F100. The feel and controls are enough like a current Nikon DSLR that you can go back and forth with no trouble, it's compatible with all the current lenses and everything except pre-AI lenses (which can be modified and will then work) and it's very well made, quick, excellent meter, decent motor drive, and under $200. (I got mine for $175 in mint condition.) Size is smaller than the flagship cameras, larger than a D90, most similar to a D300. Last quite a long time on a set of the top lithium batteries (mine is loaded with Energizer Ultimate Lithium).</p>

[shadforth_stephen]

<p>If you want to go to a war zone and use the camers as a weapon as well...the F4s<br>

If you want to have a computer like the current D3 etc but run film...the F6<br>

If you want a scaled down F6 ....the F100.</p>

<p>Do some research then you will know what suits you.</p>

 

[ty_mickan]

<p>I concur with anybody who has suggested the F4. I prefer the F3 for manual focus, but if you must auto focus at times, then this is the best all round camera Nikon have produced.</p>

[ShunCheung]

<blockquote>

<p>What I am looking for is AF, <strong>light (that's important), </strong>bright screen, dependable body, that would give me AF confirmation with AI and AIS lenses if this is possible.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>In his opening post, the OP has made it very clear that this SLR must be light weight. Therefore, I am afraid that the likes of F4, F5, and F6 are out of the question.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>A war zone and an F4? I don't think so! I'm not sure where the weight of an F4 comes from, but it sure isn't in armour plating. I have an F4 that sustained a small ding to the top plate - which promptly split! This slightly bent the frame indicator and stopped it revolving. Result; one useless F4 which refused to wind on. OK, it was relatively easy to fix by levering the frame indicator back up, but definitely not a field-fixable injury.</p>

<p>OTOH, I have an F2 that had the entire righthand end of the top plate stove in. Frame-counter didn't work but the rest of the camera performed as before, and after removing the top plate and bashing the dent out of it the frame counter sprang back to life. I still have that camera and use it, while the F4 is now basically a doorstop.</p>

<p>Anyway, none of this is really relevant. My vote would go to the F801s/8008s as most suitable for the OP's needs.</p>

[purplealien]

<p>I'd add my support for the F801s. Got everything you need, solid as a rock without being to heavy; lovely to handle.<br>

Bought mine in 1990 have taken it round the world; dropped it a few times; left it in the loft for 5 years with batteries in and half way through a film - it still worked first time.<br>

Lovely camera.</p>