pole mount photography puzzle

[marlin_penton]

<p>There is an outfit in my area that does real estate photography. An area that I want to compete in. They offer a pole mount shot for an extra fee that looks like it may have been shot at about 20-30 feet high. I found a very nice one for about 1200 bucks. Not in the budget. <br>

Before I go on inventing some sort of pole mounted tripod head contraption, does anyone have an thoughts on the subject? <br>

My latest idea involves some pvc pipes that slide into one another to make up the height. How to get that to work up and down escapes me. It has to fit in a car. I figure that I can use the self timer to shoot or make some sort of extension for the wired remote trigger that I use for time exposures and through trial and error, compose and expose the shot. Try that with film!<br>

I've got better than average access to a decent workshop. What do you think?</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>You could shoot tethered to a netbook, though you might encounter issues getting the camera control software to run on a netbook. Or maybe use LiveView tethered to a small video screen, certainly cheaper.<br>

20 to 30 feet will be difficult to do with PVC, it's too heavy at diameters stiff enough to support a camera, and 30 feet of large diameter PVC is going to be difficult to hoist up with a camera on the end.<br>

Maybe telescoping 10-foot sections, erected from on top of a ladder.</p>

<p>Hardly seems worth the effort unless you can use it repeatedly (will it be durable enough to use multiple times). But an interesting engineering challenge.</p>

<p><Chas></p>

[alec_myers]

<p>there are wind-up lighting stands you can buy like this:<br /> <a href="http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfrotto/pid/2653?livid=24&lsf=24&child=13">http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/site/manfrotto/pid/2653?livid=24&lsf=24&child=13</a><br /> Or you could engineer your own with a zig-zag cable arrangement (the same as those multi-section ladders that have a rope to extend them).</p>

<p>Or what about a screw-together rod system like you have on chimney brushes?</p>

<p>Or four 2-metre sections of trilite truss? Or the mini-truss they use for lo-vo lighting?</p>

<p>Or a double set of the multi-section poles that go across the top of background support kits?</p>

<p>Jeez, I'm full of good ideas today.</p>

[jon rennie]

<p>Tree trimming poles come in various lengths. Many in 6'-8' sections and are designed to have 3 or more sections. I would just use some radio triggers to take the pics.</p>

[tholte]

<p>Home Depot and Loewes have a lightweight aluminum (I think) extentable dealy bop that painters use. They come in different lengths are not too expensive. I would think you could rig up a tripod head and trigger it like Jon mentions above. Let us know what you come up with, could be interesting. The gizmo could bring a whole new look to some of my street photography efforts.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>You might be able to modify a used <a href="http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=5645">telescoping measuring rod</a> , the type used by surveyors, construction contractors and safety inspectors. For safest use near power lines I'd <em>strongly </em> recommend the non-conductive types; no way in hell would I use a long telescoping aluminum pole after having witnessed the effects of electrocution during fatality investigations. I used these as a construction site safety inspector years ago. They're relatively easy to handle even extended horizontally, parallel to the ground, so they're fairly rigid.</p>

<p>You'd need to modify one end to mount a head to support the camera, and rig up something at the bottom to add some stability while you steady it with one hand. A wireless trigger like a Pocket Wizard would complete the rig. Framing would be guesswork. Rather than tethered operation you might consider a camera with wireless file transfer to your laptop.</p>

[phule]

<p>You might want to drop a line to Craig Wilson over on flickr. In addition to some really fantastic kite photography work, he seems to have a great setup for photography from a pole (which he calls "Camera on a stick") :)</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/12505951@N00/tags/cameraonastick/</p>

[James G. Dainis]

PVC would be too flexible at smaller sizes. I would just use two 10 foot lengths of 1 inch inch iron pipe screwed together with a 1 inch sleeve. 3/4 inch pipe would weigh less but I would like the rigidity and heft of 1 inch pipe. A 1 inch <a href=http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/brass-fitting-floor-flange.jpg><U>floor flange</U> </a>screwed onto the top would give you the base for the camera and then a 1/4-20 bolt through one of the flange bolt holes into the camera tripod socket.

[James G. Dainis]

If 10 foot lengths won't fit in your car without sticking out the rear window, use three 8 foot lengths and two sleeves.

[mt4x4]

<p>You could always get a ladder. <br /> <br /> Just a thought.<br /> <br /> The fiberglass ones are sort of pricey; you can get a 12 foot stepladder for under $300, but that is less than $1,200 for sure. As far as I know, the tallest stepladder you'll find is 16 ft, but that gets you pretty close to 20 ft once you get yourself up there.</p>

[blumesan]

<p>Radio controlled, battery operated model helicopters are the current rage in highpriced toys. Some teenagers are incredibly skilled at flying these things. Combine with a lightweight p&s camera, also r/c. Perhaps you can work a deal with some club that flies these models.</p>

[greg_peterson3]

<p>Actually most real estate pole pix are done from about 15' to 20' up. Much higher and you're shooting too much roof. Most use a wide angle lens, which often makes it appear that the camera is higher than it actually is.</p>

<p>I use a Manfroto light stand with a rather large Bogen ball head screwed on top, and several heavy sand bags on the bottom. </p>

<p>I put my D3 on it (please don't tell my insurance guy) with a 24mm lens, and run the USB cable down to my notebook. I run Nikon Camera Control software with which I can use live view to see exactly what I'm shooting, control the exposure settings, and trigger the camera. </p>

<p>This site has some info on building your own low cost rig: <a href="http://PhotographyForRealEstate.com">http://PhotographyForRealEstate.com</a> (See "Inexpensive PAP" in the right hand column.)</p>

<p> </p>

[oar]

<p>Consider weather balloons (army surplus store) filled with helium.</p>

[seismiccwave]

<p>Pole mount camera setup is neither cheap nor easy to do. I specialize in low altitude aerial photography. I have<br>

1) A 12' step ladder.<br>

2) A 50' extendable pole setup.<br>

3) A 65' bucket truck.<br>

4) Various remote control electric and gasoline powered helicopters. Sorry Mike Blume. I am not a teenager by many years but I am still a bit skilled at piloting these radio control helicopters. They are not toys and toys cannot lift up the professional cameras required.<br>

Ok, back to the pole since that is the question. A pole setup will set you back $2,500 or more. Anything cheaper and you will pay the price in image quality and limitation in use. Some pole setup can cost over $12,000. The poles are electrically or pneumatically powered to go up and down. The $2,500 version requires manually raising the pole. Most pole will extend up to 50', comes with a pan and tilt control and software to tether your camera to your laptop. You can live view from the camera and shoot when you have the proper composition.<br>

Even when a pole is made up from 3" or more diameter aluminum it is very flexible at the very top. You can only load it with a few pounds of weight. PVC will not work. Besides you will not find PVC conduits that will telescopic into each other with minimal play and friction. To clamp one section of the pole to another you cut slits at the ends of the pole and fabricate a clamp similar to a hose clamp but has large knobs for easy tightening. <br>

A good pole setup will have provision to level the pole base and provision for anchor guy wires. Guy wires make the pole more stable so you can use slower shutter speed in low light situations.<br>

Some photographer mount their pole base on the back of a pick up truck or a towable trailer. I have seen some ingenious individual mount his pole on the bumper of his small sedan in Europe where vehicles are generally smaller.<br>

My camera is tethered to my laptop via a 100' USB cable. Before any one ask how can I have a 100' USB cable when there is a limitation on the cable length. The pole setup came with two USB to ethernet cable adapter. The 100' cable is really a twisted pair ethernet cable with RJ45 connectors at the ends.<br>

Yes, if you have a well stocked machine shop you can make your own. I also have a well stocked machine shop but after I figured out my labor and materials I found it cheaper to just write the check and buy an existing setup.<br>

If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. I hope this helps a little.<br>

One precaution. The pole is metal, what ever you decide to do be very careful and understand that the electric wire on the utility poles are NOT insulated. They carry 12,000 volts and can easily electrocute some one when the pole comes in contact with one of the phases.<br>

Fiberglass poles are actually heavier and more flexible so they are even harder to create.<br>

A large helium balloon is another option but you need a very large volume to carry a camera of any decent size.</p>

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