blumesan

Most likely; the answer to your question. However I suspect you are less interested in an answer than in resurrecting a dead horse to beat it again.

Many thanks to all who replied to my post; especially to orsetto for his detailed thoughts on various combinations of optics and sensors. I should like to add my observations as they apply to the use of various optics on modern sensors. I should preface this by stating that I am 88 years old and my eyes are not what they used to be in spite of very competent help from my ophthalmologist who evaluates my corrected vision as 20/20. I resisted the conversion to digital as long as I could, but eventually purchased a D700 and subsequently a D800. Initially I used both with vintage Nikkor lenses. I then proceeded to do the following comparison: Using both cameras and a Nikkor 105mm/2.5 I photographed identical scenes (landscape & portrait). I employed some moderate post processing identically to duplicate images. I used Cosco to print 14 x 11 in. prints. Try as I could, I was not able to detect any significant difference when viewing the prints even with the aid of a small magnifying glass. I repeated the test replacing the lens with a Zeiss macro-planar ZF 100mm/2.0. Again I was not able to see a real difference. One may reasonably attribute these results to my lack of visual acuity; and so be it. Since I do not display my photos for public viewing, I am the sole arbiter of their success (or lack thereof). At some time I shall surely try a Z6, just for the experience. The most attractive feature to me is the in camera stabilization; I'm too old to lug a tripod everywhere.

Conrad, many thanks for your reply, and I am very happy to hear that you are satisfied with the performance with legacy lenses. I am a little confused by the meaning of "stop down metering". My guess is that this is just another way of saying that metering occurs with the lens stopped down to the aperture as set on the lens, as contrasted with the method used in most DSLR's, where metering occurs with the aperture wide open.

Like many of the previous posters to this thread, I own a lovely selection of manual focus Nikkor F mount (Ai/Ai-S) lenses. I am thus concerned about their use on a Z6 with the adapter. I understand that shutter priority mode is not possible because the camera cannot adjust the aperture to a metered value (i.e. the aperture remains as set on the lens). I am a bit confused about what happens when one uses aperture priority (or manual) mode in the Z6. In these modes my D800 sets the aperture wide open while focussing but closes down the aperture immediately on exposure (to either the aperture set on the lens (M) or to the "correct" aperture determined by metering (A).) My question: Does the aperture, as set on the lens, remain fixed while focussing? And, if so, how does this affect the ability to focus manually; in particular the brightness of the OVF? What other assists to manual focussing are available in the Z6? I would appreciate any comments from other users of manual focus Nikkors on this camera+ adapter.

Mike Gammill's posts of old Kodachromes prompted me to search my old files. This image was taken in Osaka Japan in 1953, Contax IIa. I am amazed how well the colors are preserved, It was scanned in 2009.

My absolute favorite among small & light SLR's is the Contax 139Q. (It does use a battery & has aperture priority AE, but I believe it still qualifies as a "Classic".).

I have the manual for the D-4 (obtained from Butkus; thanks). I would assume the information therein would easily be applicable to the D-7; bit just guessing. Have you tried? What problems do you encounter?

w First few years I used borrowed cameras. In 1942 I had saved enough to look for a used camera. While visiting NYC I found this Agfa Karat at a very affordable price because it would not take standard 35mm cassettes. Fortunately it came with 4 or 5 empty Agfa cassettes which I loaded with film bought in bulk (another great economy). It remained my only camera for 10 years. 1 Still own the camera but it is unusable because all lubricants have turned to glue.

Another good reason to convert your RAW images to DNG.

I am using MS Explorer and Firefox. I cannot find a way to cause either to autofill.

He will be sorely missed by all those who regularly visit the CMC forum. I add my condolences to his family.

Update, 1 month later. This problem persists and no apparent effort to find a cure. Don't know whether or not you care, but my visits to the site have gone from daily to now once a week or less frequent. None of the browsers I use is able to auto fill the sign-in data.

Let me lend my voice once again to the complaints about loging-in. On my desktop I am required to log in at every session. A major pita. Net result: I log in to pnet once a week now instead of daily. Soon it will become monthly and then, not at all.

My experience coincides with the generally accepted wisdom. For printing at around 8x10 the sharpened image on my monitor (viewed at 100%) will always appear over sharpened. How much is determined mostly by trial and error.

Pity, all I could see were tags.%20

still needing to sign in each time. my browser does not autofill. this is a major pita.

Still required to enter e-mail and password each time I attempt to log in. This is becoming a major nuisance. I am not blocking cookies.

I think most of us would consider ALL film cameras as "older cameras". My vote for consolidation.

Add another thumbs down for site design. Navigation is much more difficult than it need be.

<p>confused.<br> you mention Silverfast and Vuescan, both of which are software programs for scanner operation. While they do have some facility to adjust the image produced by the scanner, neither is considered an image postprocessing program. start with Elements; move on to Lightroom, or go straight to Photoshop.</p>

<p>In my opinion, and based on my experience:<br> Viewing images on a computer monitor (even a very good one) will not reveal much, if any, difference between a fair and a good scanner. The real differences become obvious only when one prints the images at 8"x12" or larger. </p>

<p>As originally sold the 8000 came with all accessories necessary to scan both negatives and slides. If you are buying a used scanner be sure to ask seller if the scanner is complete with the required accessories.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. (Laurence Binyon)</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes, go with tiff.</p>

<p>Francis-<br> Pity about the negatives. I suspect you are not alone in this plight.<br> As for later viewing the 1200 dpi/tiff scans should be OK. For later making high quality prints, depending on the size of the prints you wish, I would guess that a higher resolution scan may be beneficial.</p>

<p>If you are scanning <strong>photos (prints)</strong> that should be adequate for later viewing. For later reprinting, I would certainly prefer to scan the negatives. Where are the negatives?</p>