Studio lighting recommendations

[jon_williams7]

<p>I'm going to use my empty detatched 2 car garage to set up a studio. I'd like to use 10x13 muslin backgrounds to use for portrait photos. What kind of lighting would you recommend? I need to stay on a budget...any advice? One softbox, one reflector?.....2 softboxes, one reflector? The photos will mostly be a mix of full-body shots and some headshots. Do I need a really large softbox for fullbody or can I get away with say...a 20x28? The camera I intend on using is a Sony Alpha A300. I hope this camera is good enough? I have a Tamron 18-250 lens on it. Would I be better off using the kit lens? Sorry for all the random questions...but I thank you in advance for all of your feedback.</p><div></div>

[howard_m]

<p>you say you have to stay on a budget. what is it? Some Alien Bees and a larger softbox. 20x28 is tiny.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Take a look at <a href="00RljT">this list of links to illustrated online tutorials and videos</a> . You may find these two in particular helpful:<br>

<a title="Studio Lighting website illustrated tutorials" rel="nofollow" href="http://www.studiolighting.net/" target="_blank" title="Studio Lighting website illustrated tutorials">Studio Lighting website</a> <br /> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://ny.webphotoschool.com/" target="_blank">Sponsored by B&H Photo, Photoflex and others - "NY Web Photo School"</a></p>

[jon_williams7]

<p>I would like to use a continuous light kit. I failed to mention that before. I guess budget isnt a huuge concern. I just would like to know whats out there. Anyone ever heard of CowboyStudio? They seem really inexpensive. Would those be any good for a beginner?</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p><em>Would those be any good for a beginner?<br /></em><br />Not as good as strobes. You need very, very bright continuous lighting to even approach the during-the-exposure output of even a modest strobe. And continuous lights that bright tend to make models squint, pupils contract, and rooms get hot. You will never regret starting out with a single decent strobe, but you'll quickly regret low-power continuous lights. Especially if, as you mention, you're talking about full-body work. That requires real horsepower.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>If you look closely at those continuous lighting kits, you'll find that they offer only umbrellas as modifiers. That's because heat-safe softboxes for continuous lighting are much more expensive than similar sized modifiers for strobes.</p>

<p>Studio lighting is all about light control, and you just don't have the options with continous lights that are available for strobes, even the cheapest. And the modifiers that are available are often set up for open face "cine"-style lights used for video, and aren't cheap.</p>

<p>Buy one decent entry-level strobe, a softbox, and the book "Light - Science & Magic" and have a great time learning how to use light and lights.</p>

<p><Chas><br /></p>

[brian_kenimer]

<h1 >Interfit INT482 Monstar One Light, Three Lamp Fluorescent Kit (120VAC) - same as 1800watts I will use for fill or background lighting</h1>

<h1 >and for subject:<br /></h1>

<h1 >Interfit Super Cool-lite 5 Fluorescent Flood Light Kit - consists of: Two Fixtures, Reflectors, 2- 24x24" Softboxes, Light Stands, Bulbs - 240 Watts (120VAC)</h1>

<p>This is what I'm getting for my new studio. Basic three point lighting set-up - plus its easily mobile.</p>

[william l. palminteri]

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2344388"><em>Matt Laur</em></a><em> </em><a href="../member-status-icons"><em><img title="Hero" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/hero.gif" alt="" /><img title="Subscriber" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub3.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/3rolls.gif" alt="" /></em></a><em>, Sep 21, 2009; 11:10 p.m.</em><br>

<em>Would those be any good for a beginner?<br /><br />Not as good as strobes. You need very, very bright continuous lighting to even approach the during-the-exposure output of even a modest strobe. And continuous lights that bright tend to make models squint, pupils contract, and rooms get hot. You will never regret starting out with a single decent strobe, but you'll quickly regret low-power continuous lights. Especially if, as you mention, you're talking about full-body work. That requires real horsepower.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>So true. A "Hot Set" is a real luxury, and the horsepower quickly runs into five digit wattage. Your garage would put ten thousand watts to use very quickly. Your utility company will be jumping up and down, and your zoning and fire code people will be interested to boot.<br>

One way around those headaches is to consider LED studio lighting, but you did mention budget.</p>

<p>Bill P.</p>

[pete_harlan1]

<blockquote>

<p>What kind of lighting would you recommend?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Strobes are great.<br>

I'm surprised no one included natural light in the mix?</p>

<p>I read you are converting a 2 car garage. What a great opportunity to cut a few holes and strategically install some windows and sky lights. Each can be covered with shades when not needed.<br>

You will still want strobes of course when the weather isn't cooperating; but natural light rocks when it's available and under your control. </p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>Those fluorescent lights don't put out much light, regardless of the advertised "equivalent wattage" rating. But, if you can make it work for you...<br>

I still recommend that you start with one strobe and learn your way up.<br>

<Chas><br /></p>

[hjoseph7]

<p>One 500W continuous light will make it look like you have a flying saucer in your garage. 2 500W continuous lights will definately wake up the neighbors.</p>

[jon_williams7]

<p>Ok...soooo what about the "stay cool" continuous lights that have 5 bulbs each with on/off switch of each bulb. That would give me better control right? With 10 bulbs total, wouldnt that be enough light or are all those "cool lights" bogus? The one I'm looking at says 2000W equivalant....Is this simliar to laptop batteries that claim 9hr battery life when in the real world its only a few hrs?</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>That still tends to be less light than you think, and because the light is emitting from fluorescents, it's likely to be a non-continuous spectrum (resulting in some real challenges with some colors or with strange response curves in post production work). <br /><br />By the time you involve the fixture, all of those bulbs (and frequently replacing them at $20+ each), you're right up there where a $350 strobe would have been anyway... but you're still missing the ability to freeze motion, and you're still having your subjects stare at you with a lot of continuous light blasting them in the face. If portraits matter to you, you'll probably get a little tired of the highly contracted pupils, and the facial tension that comes from the bright light - squints, wrinkled foreheads, etc.</p>

[jon_williams7]

<p>You make some very compelling points Matt, thank for all for your input!</p>