keith_anderson7 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 <p>I wanted to give this a try, I'm normally a Tmax 100/400 fan and for indoor street stuff I push 400 two stops in Tmax developer. Any suggestions for this using the Fuji stuff? Do you like the results? In what developer?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobcossar Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 <p>The whole POINT of Across is <em><strong>image quality</strong> </em> .....so no pushing please.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustys pics Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 <p>Well, there are lots of 400 speed films out there....however Acros should push to ISO 200 pretty easily. Use HC110 or stand development in Rodinal diluted 1:100 for about 30 minutes. Agitate the first 30 seconds, and then another 30 seconds halfway through. Pushing it to 400 would only be worth it if you were down to your last roll of film.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_anderson7 Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 <p>Bob, I don't see that they make Neopan 1600 in 120 size, which is one of the types I'd need if I were doing street photography with my 4.5x6 rangefinder indoors since 400 just won't cut it. That's one area where I'm looking for an alternative to Tmax 400 (which I'd normally push to 1600).<br> Any suggestions there?<br> The other area I'm trying to fill a gap with is Tmax 100 in 4x5 format, since I used readyload and it's discontinued. I'm guessing Neopan 100 quickload is fine there, so that's not an issue.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 <p>You can use this I find it nice in HC-110.</p> <p>http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1921535-Ilford-Delta-Pro-3200-iso-120-size?cat_id=403</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stwrtertbsratbs5 Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 <p>Ilford HP5+ rated EI 400 retains good shadow detail when developed in 1:2 XTOL.</p> <p>I use 35mm gear for low light shooting because the lenses are faster and the DOF is greater for comparable field of view. The use of faster lenses makes it possible to use slower films which mostly offsets the disadvantage of the smaller format. I do, however, use medium or large format when there is planty of light.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizore Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 <p>Diafine and Acros at ASA 160 is a hot combination. Acros is my favorite black and white film.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_wiegerink1 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 <p>Rebecca Brown has the best option here. At least that's what I think after using Diafine on Acros myself. It's not really a "PUSH", but a speed increasing developer. The nice thing is you get an ISO rating of 160 and superb negatives that really scan well and enlarge well. All this with very little apparent grain. This is a "can't miss" combination. Plus, Diafine last forever and is very simple to use. Well, almost forever. You won't believe it until you try it. I know I didn't. JohnW</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_anderson7 Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 <p>Rebecca, hope you're still checking this thread, I'm wondering if Diafine is the only developer you'd recommend, or did you try others that you liked?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_wiegerink1 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 <p>I don't know if Rebecca is here or not, but like I said, Diafine last forever(almost) so you won't be anything out if it isn't to your liking with Acros. I really think you'll like it with Acros and if you don't you'll love rating Tri-X at ISO1000 to 1250 and getting stunning results with that combination. The truth is Acros was not made to be "pushed". The same with most of the slower films. So, a non-push speed increase is the only option and Diafine gives it to you. I also love Acros in Rodinal 1:100 for 21 minutes as a semi-stand developer, but you won't get any speed increase with that combo. Diafine will also work with other films, but some really come out great and some so-so. JohnW</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 <p>Some users like Diafine to tame contrast of slow films without attempting tp push. For example, some of my best Ilford Pan F+ negatives were shot at box speed (rather than E.I, 80 as the instructions recommend). This really tamed the contrast.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainvisions Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 <p>I push to 400, looks great, no grain, great colors and contrast. Shooting 645 handheld I usually need a little more speed, so I usually push all my films. I also push Neopan 400 with great results.</p> <p>I use HC-110 at 1:31 for 9.5min with just 5 inversions at the 1/2 mark for Acros. I have some photos with the data on the second page of my flickr using this process.<br> Just as a note, I think if shooting Acros at native speed it should be EI 80, likewise, at 400, I had +1/3 stop EV comp set on most shots.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_appleyard Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 <p>Another vote for Diafine; it's really very easy, as easy as you can get. What I like about Diafine (it lasts a long time, too) is that the film doesn't looked pushed. You can easily get EI160 or maybe 200 or higher, you'll have to test.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar_artykula Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>try acros 100@200<br> Rodinal 1:50, agitate 10 sec for 7 minutes then stand develop until 18 minutes.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizore Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>I finally looked back at this thread -- I must admit that I haven't used other developers, though I have an unopened bottle of HC-110. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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