FM3a vs F6

[Robert_Lai]

<p>Fab,<br>

He says that he's in his 30's, and he wants to keep shooting the same camera into his 70s. For that reason, the FM3a is the only Nikon choice. Other choices would be an FM2n, F, or F2 - both of the latter with plain prisms.</p>

<p>Donald,<br>

If you're going to throw that much money around, and want a camera to last several lifetimes, then have you thought about Leica?</p>

[andrew_gale]

<p>I like all of the above posts that suggest F100. Its cheap and its lighter than the F6 and its probably just as good for what you want.<br>

I agree. If you really want the Pro model, get the F6 but seriously consider the F100 first. Dont listen to the digital people, digital bodies are expensive (as is the F6), and from the way your post sounded to me, you would be better served by film if thats what you like.<br>

But please please dont get rid of the FM3a, you may come to regret that. And keep you lenses too.</p>

[thomas_hardy1]

<blockquote>

<p>I'd keep everything and buy an F100. You can easily find a minty F100 for around $200. This really is a no brainer; if you sell your gear, you'll almost certainly take a bigger loss than $200.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>$200 seems somewhat low for a mint- , mint F100, but I'd love to find one at that price.</p>

[leo_papandreou1]

<p>You just missed one: item # 300295458594.</p>

[Didier Lamy]

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=4595018">Michel,</a> for me too I enjoy hearing the so sweet clonk of the shutter of a F3. To be noted: the viewfinder of a F6 (and F3) covers 100% of the picture, whereas the Fm3a is well below. The main reason why i did not buy one.</p>

[astral]

<p>Donald, you say "<em>Truth be told i don't need a 'Pro' capability camera.</em> " In that case you really don't need an F6 or even an F5.</p>

<p>Will you be photographing <em>moving objects</em> (sports, acrobats, musicians, etc) if '<em>No</em> ' then you <em>don't</em> need an F6..... How about landscapes and townscapes? If '<em>Yes</em> ' then you <em>don't</em> need an F6 ........ In short, very <em>few </em> of us <em>actually need</em> an F5 or F6, though many of us have them. </p>

<p>Stick with the FM3a and it will stick with you. You will know when you <em>need </em> an F6: it's possible that right now just <em>desire </em> to own one. Spend your money wisely on lenses, film, filters and other things that will help you now. Pick up a "cheap as chips" F80, or a F100 if you need autofocus - then you'll have everything that you want, and a bit more than you need ... really. Good luck.<br>

AC</p>

 

[duncan_murray1]

<p>Hi Donald,</p>

<p>The F6 is a very nice camera and will last you at least 30 years. However, I doubt the FM3a wouldn't either. I'm sure you didn't ask, but of course, the quality of the images is nothing to do with the camera. The F6 is built in pro-style, chunky magnesium alloy clad in rubber - it certainly gives the impression of business. The AF is excellent, and a real boon for street and portrait photography.</p>

<p>I have a recent review if you're interested : <a href="http://www.duncandheff.com/NikonF6.html">http://www.duncandheff.com/NikonF6.html</a></p>

<p>Ideally the Nikon F6 is best paired with AF-S lenses, with the AF disabled on the shutter release - allowing you to use the camera much like a manual focus one with the option of AF when you need it. However, I haven't found a well-built, good quality AF-S wideangle lens that I want yet. The 17-35/2.8 is all of this, but heavy, and the 35/2 (which I have) is good, but feels cheap compared to the F6's standard. I await Nikon to make a nice pro AF prime lens with AF-S.</p>

<p>The F100 is nice, though the F6 more technologically more proficient (CLS flash system, AF system, 1005-segment meter). Both have nice shutte-releases - I think both have counterweighted mirrors and shutters which add to the overall impression of balance and precision.</p>

<p>The only down-side to the F6 is its weight, I find having it in a shoulder bag with two other prime lenses gives my neck a *really* bad time. However, I have quite a slight frame and is probably not a problem for most. If you sling just the camera, and another prime in a pocket, it's fine.</p>

<p>I would buy both if you can!</p>

<p>All best,</p>

<p>Duncan.</p>

<p>P.S. I'm sure film will be around - there's a bit of a revival at the moment, and I think processing and scanning services will improve.</p>

[stephen_asprey2]

<p>Donald,<br>

I was in your position with an FM2n and FE2. I also have a D300 for digital.<br>

I ended up keeping the smaller bodies and buying a really good F4s for AF on film. This was a bulletproof PJ camera and here's why its so good:<br>

1. Full backwards and forwards lens compatibility, manual and AF. (not G)<br>

2. The best, huge, 100% uncluttered viewfinder ever designed.<br>

3. All the adjustments and controls are by dial etc...no messy menus (like an F6).<br>

4. Great matrix metering on old and new lenses.<br>

5. Simple and blindingly fast AF.<br>

6. All the functionality of an F6 and called the Rosetta Stone of cameras by those who know.<br>

7. Fully bomb proof and sealed to the environment.<br>

8. Cheap as chips to buy used....abt $400.<br>

9. Uses cheap AA batteries...no crappy ni-cad and expensive recharger.</p>

<p>The not so good:<br>

1. Weighs a lot</p>

<p>Have a look at what KR has to say (email me for details)</p>

 

[roman_p]

<p >Another vote for FM3a/F100 combo. </p>

<p >I have all 3: FM3a, F100 and F6 and use them all. But I purchased the F6 simply because I could afford this wonderful pro body. If you cannot afford F6 without trading FM3a don’t buy it. </p>

<p >For your purposes <em >(landscape and portraites and candid shots…)</em> seems to me you cannot find better camera than F100. Light, reliable, weather resistant, built to last and definitely better value for money. And keep your FM3a.</p>

<p > </p>

<p ><em >One thing that i do wonder about is, which of the two cameras should i expect to stand the test of time?</em></p>

<p >I believe both. However if you read Robert (Lai) posting he might have a point. If we take a look at mid 80’s when we had F4 and FM2 I would suggest that F4 is more prone to failure than FM2. But both those bodies were built as rock and still hundred thousands photogs are using them. </p>

[mjferron]

<p>I also suggest an F100 and keeping your FM3a. Sure the F6 is a superb camera and many of us would love to have one but the F100 will do most things just a well. I just picked up a mint- F100 for a total of $250 including delivery.</p>

[steven_sherwin]

<p>I also highly recommend the F100 and FM3A combination..... you should be able to pick up a very good F100 second hand (even two!) and have a great kit with the lenses you already have. The F6 with a fast 2.8 lenses is going to be very heavy and while the F6 is a great camera, the F100 has all the functions you will ever need. You can then spend the money you saved on film...</p>

[joey1]

<p>The best things I can think of in purchasing the F6 is backwards compatibility with older AI and AI-s lenses. You can even have Nikon add the prong to accept pre-AI lenses to allow for direct metering. The other is the advance lighting system with their speed lights.</p>

[Robert_Lai]

<p>Joey,<br>

The prong at f/5.6 on the aperture ring is to mate with a pin on the meter heads of the Nikon F and F2 era cameras, including certain Nikkormats. On cameras beyond this, the prong does nothing. To use pre-AI lenses, you need to perform stop down metering, or have somebody grind the aperture ring to the AI setting.</p>

[g-man1]

<p>Be done with it and get an F6. I have it and an fm3a and if I had to, I 'd pick the F6 -- it is the better machine. Go to the nikon home page and read about the f6 development and the fm3a as well.</p>

[joey1]

<p>Hi Robert, with regards to using non-AI lenses, according to the F6 manual, the body needs to be modified by an authorized Nikon service center to perform the modification. FWIW Tom Hogan's review confirms this. The meters DP-11 and DP-12 did away with the prong attached to the meter head using instead the coupling lever/tab for the AI series lenses.</p>

[ty_mickan]

<p>a camera is a light proof box. unless you are a sports photographer, you do not need an f6. keep the FM3a and be happy in the knowledge that you had more of a hand in your great images than your camera. it's all about the film inside and the lenses.</p>

[bobar57]

<p>I agree 100% with Tom statement.</p>

<p>RA</p>

[max cooper]

<p>Donald: Forgive me if this post is out of line.<br /> <br /> Do what makes you happy. If an F6 will make you happy, by all means go for it. But will it, really?<br /> <br /> A personal story: I worked in a music store for four years. In that time, I bought/built eleven guitars and four amps. I can't play very well, but I had dreams of the things I would play, and the tones I would get. I spent a lot of time on guitar boards researching and weighing options. Had a lot of fun with it.<br /> <br /> Every day I would go to work and see guys come in and talk about their gear. Their vintage this, or brand-new that. But they would never sit down and play, because they couldn't. Simple chords or poorly delivered solos from the sixties were all they knew. But if I sold them a guitar, they would check every last detail, listen for noise, feel for fret burrs, etc. <br /> <br /> Eventually, I realized that these guys don't enjoy music; they enjoy the guitars. And that's fine. But I was also forced to realize that about myself as well. I owned more guitars than the number of gigs I'd actually played. If I had put 1/10th the amount of energy I invested in guitars into learning to play, I'd be a damn fine player right now. After that realization, it was very hard to be happy playing my expensive guitars. Now I'm down to two guitars and one amp. Ok, three.<br /> <br /> Photo.net is a great place to talk about gear, and it's fun to talk about gear, but I worry sometimes that many folks on here are more concerned with cameras than with photographs. It's fine to enjoy cameras, and it's even fine to enjoy them more than taking pictures, but what I fear from reading your post is that you're getting caught up in something that will ultimately detract from your photography.<br /> <br /> I am a poor guitar player, but I'm a good photographer. When I realized what I'd done with the guitars, I got scared that I'd do the same thing with cameras. For years, I used a K1000 and a 28mm, and never considered anything else. I didn't buy a nicer camera until I started seeing situations in which I missed a shot because of my gear. <br /> <br /> So, my advice: Do what makes you happy, but make sure it really does make you happy. Is it owning an F6, or producing awesome photos? Make sure that your desire for one doesn't overshadow your vision for the other. <br /> <br /> I'd keep the FM3a, and buy an F100. For what it's worth, you can see my cameras and my work <a href="http://darktopography.blogspot.com/2009/03/firing-squad.html">here</a> .<br /></p>

[christoph_hammann]

<p>Max,<br>

truer word was seldom spoken ...</p>

[robbie_caswell]

<p>I've owned the F100, F5, F6, then back to the F100... No manual Nikon bodies though I own a Olympus OM1 system.<br>

F6 is a special camera and indeed the flagship of all film SLR bodies.<br>

I really see no advantage unless you prefer the ease of autofocus, need the autofocus for sports, etc... The F5 and F6 are robust cameras to say the least.<br>

The F100 gives you 90% of the performance in a lighter package. The red focus points and weight are the advantage over the F5. The F5 is a BEAST!<br>

At $200 +/- the F100 is a bargain compared to the F6.<br>

Unless money was an issue I would add the F100 and keep both. Take the extra savings and buy AIS telephoto glass like the 300mm f/2.8 or something else that may interest you.</p>

[DB_Gallery]

<p>I professionaly shoot the FM3A along with F100, D700, D3, XPan, 500 CM, M3, M6 and MP3. I have shot at one time or another every F series camera starting with the F2 and I can honestly say the FM3A is by far my favorite. <br>

It is the combination of build, pro driven features when a battery is in it and even more professional pro feature of a full shutter speeds range without the batteries in the FM3A that make it a never sell for me. <br>

I bought mine brand new just 7 months after they were first announced. It is now brassed and worn and is as good as ever.<br>

I found the F6 to be a great camera, but for the money, the F100 is nearly as good and is a bit lighter and smaller.</p>

[donaldamacmillan]

<p>Many, many thanks to everyone who has taken the time to answer my post .... I have almost certainly decided not to part company with my FM3a, i think many of you are right, i would very soon regret not having my FM3a. The F6 may be the 'ultimate film camera', but i am no pro, and i never will be ... i have to be very honest with myself about this. <br>

So many of you have suggested the F100 as a quality Nikon AF alternative ... I will be looking very seriously at this option (and at the F4s). I do feel my photography would benifit from gaining some experience with a quality film AF camera, maybe the F100 is the 'one' for me .... Of course, i will probably very likely also take the opportunity to expand my 'wee family' of lenses too, as many of you have strongly encouraged!! <br>

Many thanks again for so many friendly thoughts and suggestions and honest advice ... None offence was taken at any point and i enjoyed reading all you posts :-))<br>

Donald</p>

[e_b7]

<p>I think film will be around a long time for its archival qualities. You don't need a machine to view an image. Silver hallide films are stable when kept in the dark. I have Kodacrhome slides from the 1950s that look great. It sounds like you don't need any equipment. If you have a 50mm f1.8, you already have a "really good lens." Do you have a good tripod? That's a big help in getting sharp images. Do your lenses cover the focal lengths you need? Keep in mind prime lenses generally perform better than zooms. I'd consider a DSLR for the convenience and the digital darkroom experience. It will give you autofocus as well. By the way, TTL fill flash is a great Nikon feature. I'd consider using it with something like a Metz unit off-camera to avoid red eye. I'm pretty sure you can perform this on your FM3a by metering the scene normally, and then cranking the ISO up two stops, to fool the flash and give you the proper fill-flash ratio. I do this with my Hasselblad 503CX with great results. I hope this helps, and am glad you're enjoying photography. Post a photo some time! Ed</p>