Epson 2200 Prints too Dark - Solution Summary

[bill_wetzel1]

I have struggled for some time with prints with shadows too dark on my Epson

2200, and often with a slight pink bias to skin tones. I read parts of

"Real-World Color Management", bought an Eye-One Display 2 and calibrated my

monitor, tried various setting adjustments, but the problem still persisted. A

search here revealed others with the same problem and eventually, a couple of

suggestions for fixes buried deep in a number of discussions. Here is is a

summary in one place of what worked for me. Obviously, this assumes that you

have all of your other settings correct: calibrated monitor, no double

profiling, correct profile selected, etc., etc.

 

1) In the "EPSON Stylus Photo 2200 Properties" Main tab select the "Ink Config"

button and then set the "Color Density" to -12% to -14%. I have it at -14% now

but may want to reduce it just a bit, depending on the results of further testing.

 

2) Install the latest Epson profiles from:

 

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/EditorialAnnouncement.jsp?oid=42114986

 

These now include separate profiles for resolutions of 1440 and 2880. Select the

appropriate profile for your paper, black ink type, and resolution.

 

The color density adjustment solved the problem with the dark shadows and the

new profiles fixed up the color bias. Finally, my prints match my monitor.

 

Bill

[michelle a.]

Thank you so much for posting this.... I had basically given up trying to print anything of importance on my 2200.

 

I'll give this a try and see if it works!

[patricklavoie]

if only you add my email : )

 

When i add a epson 2200 i use to remove with a curve in photoshop -2 majenta and - 7 of density, got very good print that way.

 

For neutral BW, use Quadtone RIP (50$) and your set. Forget the black only method, it give a grainy look...but in need it is probably the best second choice. feel free to email me if you have other questions.

[frans_waterlander]

I use a calibrated monitor at 4900K and 90cd/m^2, SoLux 4900K lighting, Epson 2200, Epson inks, Epson paper, Epson improved profiles, let Photoshop apply the profiles and get a great monitor-to-print match every time; never a need to tweak anything. What am I missing?

[rnt]

Which version of Photoshop are you using?

[bill_wetzel1]

Robert - I am using LightRoom almost exclusive. However, to try to isolate the problem I did try CS2 with the same results. I have tested the solution on LR only.

 

Frans - What are you missing? Either my misfortune or a critical eye :-).

 

All - I'm also using Epson inks, Epson paper, and applying the profiles in LightRoom, NOT in the driver.

[frans_waterlander]

Bill,

 

Seriously, I get a near perfect monitor to print match with my setup. What calibration color temp, gamma and brightness are you using and what kind of lighting?

[httpwww.photo.netclaudi]

I was so excited to see your solution.....until I could not make any of it work.

1--The file you recommended —

Page Not Found | Epson US — is no longer there. Do you know how to find it now? To complicate things, I'm using Canson Velin paper, which uses its own profile. Do you have any advice on using that vs. the Epson profile?

2--I was not able to locate the "EPSON Stylus Photo 2200 Properties" Main tab or the "Ink Config" button. They aren't in the System Preferences, and don't appear when you start to print. BTW, I'm on a Mac, El Capitan (most updated software my machine will take).

As you can imagine, I went from "Yippee!" to "Oh, crap!" in sixty seconds flat. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks so much.

[httpwww.photo.netclaudi]

Just saw that when I copied your URL into my question (above) it turned it into "Page Not Found/Epson US". It was supposed to be the URL that is listed in your original solution. Thanks again.

[RaymondC]

I had a 2200 and now a 2880. The 2880 Epson profiles are better but still not that great. I have found that with the 2200 I used the Red River paper profile with my Epson paper - Epson Prem Semi Gloss and Epson Enhanced Matte. I think the ones I liked were the Polar Matte, and the Artic Polar Satin.

 

Other than that. The real proper way IMO is to create your custom printer profiles.

 

With my Dell Ultrasharp monitor I had to reduce the brightness from 50 to 30 before I calibrated it.

[Ed_Ingold]

If your prints are too dark using a calibrated monitor and the correct print profile, start by increasing the light surrounding your monitor to match the light in which you view the print. You can also reduce the monitor brightness, as described above.

 

I have also found that professional grade sharpening for output (inkjet, halftone, condone, etc) greatly reduces dot gain, which can muddy dark areas. I use a product called "Photokit Sharpener" from www.pixelgenius.com. As the website will explain, sharpening is best done in three steps - capture (to normalize the raw file), Creative (to selectively enhance details), and Output (customize the results to the output device or printer).

 

There are also various RIP (Raster In Place) programs which allow a great deal of customization, including dot gain control for inkjet printing.

[digitaldog]

If your prints are too dark using a calibrated monitor and the correct print profile, start by increasing the light surrounding your monitor to match the light in which you view the print. You can also reduce the monitor brightness, as described above.

 

I fail to see how a print that is too dark is 'fixed' by such an adjustment. Yes, even the best print ever made will appear too dark if the lighting is too low; but that print isn't too dark! Don't view prints this way; they look dark.

The question should start as this: IS the print really too dark? You send a color reference image who's RGB values are not going to result in too dark prints then see if indeed, no matter how and where you view that print under a reasonable illuminant (not a 3watt night light bulb) IF the print really IS too dark. If so, the issue lies elsewhere. It isn't the data. It isn't the display calibration. Focus now on what is causing RGB values that should never print too dark to print too dark!

 

Such a color reference display (and there are many more out on the web):

http://www.digitaldog.net/files/2014PrinterTestFileFlat.tif.zip

[Charles_Webster]

I used a 2200 for years and produced hundreds if not a thousand or more prints. All of which matched the screen colors and brightness as much as paper can ever match a screen. Which screen was calibrated with a X-rite i1 calibrator.

 

I used Epson ink only. I used Innova Photo Smooth Cotton Bright White paper and the paper maker's profiles. I printed from Lightroom and allowed it to manage the color.

 

I think the secret is settling on one paper for which you can get good profiles, and then fine tuning your printing adjustments until you get a print that closely matches the screen.

 

My $0.02 worth after 8 years of printing on a 2200

[RaymondC]

The 2200 is a very good printer. Much better than labs and I used the Red River profiles for my Epson papers and they looked stunning. Not sure if by chance. They are better than my R2880 with Epson papers using Epson profiles. FWIW, I have some Inkpress paper and used their profile for my R2880 and it's better. I am not sure if Epson profiles are just not up to the same standard. I note Charles said he used Innova paper. What I learnt today actually is to use non Epson paper.