EFKE 25 35mm, softer contrast?

[grain]

I got great sharpness tonight with my standby ID-11 stock, but my zones are way too far apart. Other

than Neofin Blue which I have a hard time finding nowadays, what might you suggest? Going to Nova

Scotia in a week with twenty rolls.

[jay ott]

I've had good luck at box speed with HC110 dilution G for 22 minutes.

[larrydressler]

I have had good luck with rodinal 1-200 simi stand for 60 minutes

 

Larry

[meinhart]

Emphazise Larry, you could also use 1+100 for 30 mins Semi Stand, that is Fill in - upend 5 times, 2nd minute - upend 5 times, then 3 times every 10 mins. Works very well with me and is definitely the softest without a two-bath developer like Emofin or Diafine.

But beware that your glasses are good enough, the optics are the limiting factor with that film, most times ....

Good luck, Jan-Meinhart

[grain]

Unless I get a ton of 'rodinal' a'la fotog's formulary, I can't get the real agfa stuff anymore.

Have thought about perceptol, also a PQ. Thoughts on Perceptol?

Note: Please respond here in the forum, Lowell (lowellh@***********.com). Don't SPAM my

mailbox with sales offers or "product bulletin's" again. Moderator take note please.

[larrydressler]

I get the real stuff from Freestyle.

 

Larry

[jim_appleyard]

Yes, you can get the real Rodinal from Freestyle.

 

I've had great luck with Efke 25 in Rodinal or Pyrocat HD.

 

Funny, I've never tried Clayton...

[photo_smith]

I like it in Rodinal (The real Agfa stuff) at 1:100 12-15mins depending on contrast.

 

In bright light:

http://www.pbase.com/mark_antony/image/76832954.jpg

 

Mark

more images here

http://photo-utopia.blogspot.com/2007_04_01_archive.html

[grain]

I just was looking at freestyle and figuring out what ORMD means. I'll get some Rodinal

then, and thanks all.

[kparratt]

Or if you can get your hands on TETENAL Emofin (powder version) It's one of the best compensating developers around.

 

But many stock developers, like Rodinal, greatly diluted (1:100 to 1:200 as mentioned above) with reduced agitation ie "stand" technique, will hold back those highlight densities in the neg. But make sure you expose well for the shaddows, or else you'll end up with nothing in them. That film needs loads of light.

 

Kevin.

[kparratt]

I posted an image at an earlier discussion on EFKE. The current rations of 25 and 50 ASA are actually slightly over rated. I use them at their earlier designations of 20 and 40 ASA. When I first used EFKE, it still carried the DIN coding of 14 and 17 DIN. I've just just stuck to this because the emulsions have not changed.

 

However: http://www.photo.net/bboard/big-image?bboard_upload_id=31717784

 

Also if you just do a search within photo.net on EFKE, there's a mass of material to read through.

 

All the best, Kevin.

[grain]

That is a nice result, Kevin! I printed what I had gotten from the ID-11 last night, onto the

EFKE Graded double weight paper #3, the daylight exp. were fair, but the tungsten shots

were awful. Really nice Paper though, and cheap. I may have to get some of their #2.

[rustys pics]

Results were awful under tungsten because Efke 25 and 50 have very little red sensitivity. When shooting under tungsten light, you should double the exposure. For example, Efke 25 is more like ISO 12, and Efke 50 around 25 ISO.

If you read that data sheets, they will confirm this low red sensitivity. Good luck!

[al_divenuti]

Great point from Russ.

 

Similarly, you must compensate if you use this film early in the morning or at dusk. Because of the sun's lower position in the sky during these times the light will have a lower color temperature and favor the red part of the spectrum.

 

I've found that an extra 1/3-2/3 stop is required under these conditions. Naturally, you don't have to worry about this if you are shooting in open shade during such times.