fred_obturateur Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Hello, I think this is recommended by either Ilford or Kodak (or both... or neither!), but I THINK I read this somewhere. My question is : do you do this or do you simply do the usual agitation process (every minute for Ilford every 30 s. for Kodak)? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbg90455 Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 That's what I do with TMax100 film in TMax developer -- 30 sec. agitation initially, and then 10 sec. per minute... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik_hattrem Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I do the same with ilford and fomapan 30 sec. then 10 sec every minute or 5 sec every half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yann1 Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I've also heard this and that's what I do with HC110 and Rodinal for my films HP5 Trix Agfa.... But constant agitation should be soft, shaking too violently could cause the negs to fog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randall ellis Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 This is done with all developing, even stand. For the first 30 seconds of developing you keep agitating the can, then for the rest of the development you do your normal intermittent agitation. This initial agitation prevents uneven development and air bells by allowing the film surface to become evenly saturated with developer. - Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham john miles Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Just do a gentle rolling motion with the hand. Too fast and the developer will surge through the sprocket holes causing dark streaks. I should think that's happened to everyone at least once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan_dzo Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 The aim is to wet the film with developer evenly. constant 30s agitation makes sense. You might get away without it, but why bother risking it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I give six steady inversions in the first 30 seconds then one inversion every 30 seconds thereafter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nealcurrie Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I agitate for about 10 seconds when the developer first goes in, but I always presoak. I've never noticed uneven development problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred_obturateur Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Thanks for the varied replies! I was wondering if I should this because I had under-developed negs in the past even though I was doing things by the book (Tri-X rated 250 pre-soak 3 minutes D-76 1:1 for 10'30). I'll try it and see if my negs aren't too hard. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big toys are better Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 The most important reason for the constant agitation along with some sort of mechanical whacking of the tank at the end is to dislodge any bubbles from the film and ensure that the entire film surface is rapidly and equally wetted. I learned this the hard way early on, and have not suffered the bubble effect since (but ruined some treasured images because of that lesson). As long as the development time is fairly long, this should not cause streaking along the sprocket holes because the film is still just getting wetted in the first minute-- the developer has not yet fully diffused into the emulsion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_hoyt Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I have used constant agitation for the first minute for over 20 years. With roll film and Nikkor tanks and reels, I invert the tank every second for the first 60 seconds and then 4 inverts every 30 seconds until development is complete. I have used a variety of Kodak film and once I started the above agitation scheme uneven development went away. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mendel_leisk Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 "The most important reason for the constant agitation along with some sort of mechanical whacking of the tank at the end is to dislodge any bubbles from the film and ensure that the entire film surface is rapidly and equally wetted." Good point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now