niall_church Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Just shot roll of moon shots but got ghost images too! Any reasons why! Niall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Internal reflections in your lens. They often do not show up with lower contrast daytime shots, but a bright moon and pitch black sky around it will mercilessly reveal that. I had a 300mm f/4 AFS which suffered terribly from that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Like this perhaps? I forgot to mention that overexposing a very bright area will bring this effect out even more.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willscarlett Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 What is proper exposure for shooting the moon? I read somewhere that it's f/11 and your shutter speed should be the reciprocal of the film speed. Is this true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikos peri Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 That's an application of the sunny-16 rule; i.e. for full sunlight, f/16 and 1/ISO. A full moon is after all nothing other than an object in full sunlight. Naturally, under an eclipse, or with less than full moon, that vary. Bracketing is a very good idea - and anything except a spot meter reading will do you no good as the surrounding darkness will lead to massive massive over exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randall ellis Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 John-Paul, I believe for the best exposure for full effect is to show both cheeks... On a more serious note, try this link http://www.shaystephens.com/moon_calc.php - Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmene Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Always take care from reflexions in the viewfinder. This is shot yesterday with 200 ISO, f/5,6, 1/400 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 You need a steady tripod and reasonably quick shutter speed because of the motion being exaggerated when using a long focal length lens. Here's a shot, using the sunny 16 rule, taken with a 50mm f8 mirror lens:<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Sorry for the large image. Also that should have read 500mm instead of 50mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_goulet Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 "Loony Eleven" is what I heard that rule called (f/11 and 1/ISO). It is a good starting point, especially for a full moon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich815 Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Niall, you did not use a UV or P-filter on the lens did you? That, I find, will create a "ghost" reflection of the moon every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich815 Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 One of my moon "attempts": http://contaximages.com/document.php?id=1316&full=1 And another (eclispe, from 2003): http://not.contaxg.com/document.php?id=2013&full=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 Sunny 16 because the full moon is a rock in full sun light... Alot of telophoto lenses though have no idea of that rule because they are cheap .....Meters get fooled by all the dark around the rock. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niall_church Posted March 5, 2007 Author Share Posted March 5, 2007 Er...yes I did use a uv filter,sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josepmiro Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 For shooting landscapes or other subjects iluminated by full moon light (with no moon on the photo), you have to consider that moonlight is a fraction of 1/250000 respect sun light. In terms of stops, it's equivalent to 18 stops. It's important to adjust the long exposure acordly to the film manufacturer specifications. There are big differences between different types of film. For example, TMAX need much less adjustement that TXP. Example: if a landscape needs 1/1000 sec. at f22, with full moon light, it needs 18 stops more: 1 second at f2.8 If the result were more than one second, you should adjust depending on the film used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
profhlynnjones Posted March 5, 2007 Share Posted March 5, 2007 Every now and then I have to pull out my period as VP of Celestron. Full Moon, while it is very bright, the contrast of the moon itself very flat in contrast so I suggest that you increase the developing time. Try New Plus X Pan at about 6.5 minutes at 68F. Fll at 400th to 500th To fil the frame in 35mm use 2000mm (5/8th" disc size) for 4/3 digital 1000mm will do. 2000mm=5/8" or about 16mm disc size 1,000mm 5/16" or 8mm 500mm 532" pr 4mm remember 400-500, f11, ASA 400 Lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now