wang Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Local lab shutted down, have to do it myself. Maybe it's a good new. Get the chance hand on. I did it a little it 20 years ago when I was in school. I use lab service after that. Now day I see so many film developers out there. Kodak D-76, Xtol, Macrotol, Technidol.... Ilford DD-x macrophen..... Acufine, Clayton, JandC, PMY, Edwal, Tetenal...... Which one is better? I use Kodak Tri-X, Plus-X, AGFA APX100, Fuji ACROS, Ilford PANF. I want mainly fine grain, continuous tone(I love smoothness of the skin, no block out). BTW, I just bought a used JOBO CPP2, and some used drums, plan to use on 120 and 4x5 film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Make it easy on yourself. Stick with one developer until you get the hang of it again. D-76 (or Ilford ID-11, pretty much the same thing) is good for just about any film up to ISO 400 when exposed normally or rerated below the box speed. For grainier films you might prefer it as straight stock solution or 1+1 dilution. For finer grain films, 1+1 or 1+3 is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dida futi Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Hello. I am not pro and I have not so much expirience, but I had some time ago similar problem (to choose developer). The problem for me was to find developer which can be used for both delta and pan films. I choose Tetenal Ultrafin liquid developer and found it very good. It means, that I was surprised by results. i use mainly Kodak T-max and Fuji Neopan Acros, which are really different kinds of films, and results were good for both. I did enlargements up to 30x40 cm (cca 12x16inch) and they looks out fine. But I like more grain in photos, so my opinion is relative. I use rest of chemicals from Ilford, also for enlargment, but developer for films Tetenal, and I can recommend it as cofident shoot. But be aware, it is expensive one. r. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdavidprice Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 I switched from D-76 to HC-110 because the HC is a liquid and I can mix just enough for what I'm going to use. I don't use enough to use up the D-76 before it goes bad. If I used more developer I might go back to D-76 but I have come to really like the HC for Tri-x, especially the 1/62 mix and the long development times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discpad Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 I tend to agree with Lex: Stick with one good developer. D-76 is good; though I've found Xtol to give slightly better performance when exposing & developing the film to the box speed, i.e. you're exposing to match the ISO rating of the film. Also, for both D-76 and Xtol in a Jobo, if you dilute them 1:1 just use them single shot, then toss. For the fixer, use Flexicolor (C-41) Fixer & Replenisher for Color Negative Film: For 5 gallons it's $7.95 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=27600&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation And for 25 gallons, it's $32.95 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=27599&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation One good thing about the Jobo's is that it's easy to hit your times & temps. Another good thing is that if you replenish your chemistries, you simply just dump plenty in. BEWARE: Don't waste your time with the 2509 reels for 4x5: They are truly awful, with streaks along the edges, and film touching, even if you load only 4 sheets instead of 6. Instead, invest in a used 3010 drum, which easily develop 10 sheets. ------------ UPDATE: As I was just ready to hit "Submit" David Price chimed in with his HC-110 suggestion; and I was close to adding that to my list. However, **for the Jobo** I recommend going up one increment in volume, i.e. if it calls for 270 mL I set my dial on 330 mL... And I use the max volume for the drum (like 540 ml) when I'm running replenished chemicals, for B&W as well as E6 & C41. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_m3 Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Another vote for HC-110. Long shelf life and super easy to mix directly for one shot use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 I'm with Lex and Dan on this one. Choose either D-76/ID-11, (essentially the same thing, buy the one that's cheaper where you are) or XTOL. Both are powders that you mix up to make stock solution which you can use as is or dilute further as needed for one time use. Either will provide good to excellent results with a slight edge going to XTOL. Store the stock solution in several completely full bottles and the stock solution will last you at least six months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 Ditto HC-110. It produces results very comparable to D-76/ID-11. Versatile and long lasting - the concentrated syrup will stay fresh for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnashings Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 I love Rodinal, but there are now obvious supply problems. Its not a question of which one is better - all these developers have their uses, all excel in some areas. Now, D76/ID11 is a good choice because it is flexible, it will do anything you ask including big pushes, can be altered considerably with dilution changes - basically, a lot of different looks from one developer and some water. Just go to digitaltrugh.com and see their massive development chart, it is filled with huge amounts of great starting points as far as times for various combos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 you may also look into using Diafine at 2 min for solution B. it does not push the film. check out this thread. http://nelsonfoto.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1905 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cenelsonfoto Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Be careful, Larry. Diafine DOES compensate, results vary depending on your flavor of film. My specific results were shot at high-noon under clear skies, TriX rated 400 and then Diafine solution-b stopped at 2 mins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Thanks CE. I will always be Careful under these new situations. I knew you used Tri X i would love though to try this with some Double-X at 300 Larry<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amy_reeves Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 I use Ilford ID-ll. Use to use D76 but as Kodak has begun to turn it's back on film shooters, I choose to no longer use them. As has been said before, ID-11 is a good beginner developer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowell_huff1 Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 We would be pleased to offer a sample for you to test. I have times and temps for most films. I have not had many people tell me that our developer was not the best they have ever used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discpad Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Lowell, Have you tested your developers with Rollei R3, either as a high speed, or (in my case) low speed soup? Freestyle will be out of stock on the high speed stuff until 18 March: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000000762 Also, please see my post entitled "Rollei R3 alternate high & low speed developers?" at: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FDUz&tag= Cheers! Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now