skygzr Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Hi Everyone - I tried making an enlarged negative for the first time last weekend. I hadprobelms with smooth areas (like the sky) looking like cottage cheese. The onlyreference I found to the problem suggested I use a brush on the emulsion side tobreak up the flow. I'm using Arista APHS Premium Halftone Supreme in Dektol 1:9. I develop it in atray, and give it continuous rocking agitation, just like paper. I'll try the brush but I wanted to pick the collective brains, first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Instead of a brush, you can try using your fingers. If you are sensitive to Dektol, the usual caveats apply. Use nitrile or rubber gloves. I'm ok with bare hands and Dektol at 1+2 for normal printing papers, and have been for years. At 1+9 I wouldn't even think about it. Another strategy might be to slip the film into the developer tray emulsion side down and agitate that way for a few seconds before flipping it over. Seems more likely that you'll wet the emulsion evenly that way. Yet another alternative is to pre-wet the film in a tray of water first for the same reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conrad_hoffman Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Lith films are, I think, prone to that problem when developed for continuous tones in Dektol. Try a film developer and choose a dilution that gives you at least a five minute development time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Try HC-110 Dil A Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I've devved Kodak Ortholith in Ilford PQ Universal with no problems. Slide the film under the dev as quickly as possible and agitate the dish first lengthwise for a few times, then crosswise. Alternate the agitation during development. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Chris Were you getting High contrast or normal contrast negatives/positives? I found that your method built up contrast when I wanted midtones. Kevin What did you want for an end result .. A total B&W 2 tone? or did you want mid tones? Over expose underdev for mid tones and a slower dev time with good but not aggresive Agatation helps.... A diluted Dev helps extend the time but not too long Some of the ones I used to make took 5-6 minutes .. Dektol 1-20 also worked.... Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Larry, I was getting normal contrast positives. These were effectively transparent prints for mounting on an illuminated display. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Chris Try diluting the dektol more and processing a little longer... Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Kevin, I get great results using 510-Pyro 1:500 in a tube with one minute initial agitation, one inversion at 10 min, and 20 min total development time @ 70F. I think Andre' de Avillez uses the same technique. I should say that this is for in-camera negatives developed for normal printing contrast. Good luck. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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